[uptown]

I done this last year and despite one crumbling foothold, thought it was class - However there seems to be contention over line and grade.

I've watched some vid. and read the comments on Y.G., and they confused me even more - especially as JW's graded list for Yorkshire gives it 7c, and reckons you keep low round the arete.

Classy grit problems shouldn't be encumbered with rules and eliminations, so what's the sketch.

I had no knowledge when I did it, so traced the 'natural' line starting on the arete, and finishing on the top. These photos show direction, finishing by rocking onto the hole highlighted on ear'oule to finish. I thought 7b/+.






Can anyone shed any light on this for me???

[nik at work]

I don't know the official answer to this one but it is probably my coments of yorkshiregrit that you are refering to.
I thought about 7b for finishing up the arete (which is essentially the line you are talking about as well) and was confused by the 7c on yorkshire grit (and also in the bouldering guide). It seemed very soft.
It would be possible to stay low round the arete (at the level of the angle of your yellow line) and do some very hard laybacky/pinchy style things on rounded do-dahs to end up with your right hand getting the circled hold (rather than using it as a foothold) and finishing up ear'oule. This would certainly be worth 7c. I suppose it is a bit stupid eliminatey to not go up the arete but then the start is elimiantey as well.

So to summarise, I don't know whether or not you have done the worm. But if you have it is not 7c, and if you haven't then it probably is 7c. Hope that helps...

[uptown]

Cheers Nik,

I didn't finish up the arete (as in vid) but traversed the break where the line is on slopers and a poor undercut break, to finally rock up on circled foothold. The only variation to this would be to stay even lower and span to the flake (just above circled foothold) to finish up ear'oule but I couldn't find any worthy holds at all, yet alone span betwixt them.

I guess in conclusion it shows how far out the grades and descriptions in Yorkshire can be - even with the advent of share technology (interweb!) we've still got a concensus of 7c on Y.G. despite no-one being able to back this up.
 
I really hope the new guide can iron issues like this out, cos I'd hate Yorkshire to continue as a laughing joke for overgrading like in previous guides.

[nik at work]

A-ha I see what you mean, I didn't even think to try that.
Staying properly low would be very powerful and hard IMHO and certainly worth the V10 grade. I just find Yorkshire grades a bit wierd, but then I don't understand grades at the best of times...

[uptown]

I just find Yorkshire grades a bit wierd, but then I don't understand grades at the best of times...

Yep, totally agree Nik, cheers for your knowledge btw, I was beginning to fear I was the only fella who's bouldering in Yorks at the mo.

[webbo]

i bumped in a guy called john at brimham a couple of years ago who reckoned this was a give away at v10 mentioned something about a toe hook making it ok.

my understanding of the yorkshire guide is that alan double barreled whatshis name was shown problems by various locals then he went away and wrote but it was never checked before publication hence the grades.even stranger theres problems in it graded v8 that are still projects.

[nik at work]

The low finish round the arete is tough paper-round with or without any foot type shin-shanigans

Uptowngirl I've met you haven't I? We climbed at the roaches many moons ago with Dan and Tom didn't we (you had an injured finger at the time)? I'm not saying your name in case you wish to remain anonymous for some reason...

[squeek]

I was beginning to fear I was the only fella who's bouldering in Yorks at the mo.

I'm bouldering in Yorks, well it'll be Lancs later on today, but didn't know the answer.  I've often wondered where it goes, as it did seem a bit of a giveaway at V10 if you finished up the arete, and had seen the graded list where it says it keeps low.

[uptown]

Uptowngirl I've met you haven't I? We climbed at the roaches many moons ago with Dan and Tom didn't we (you had an injured finger at the time)? I'm not saying your name in case you wish to remain anonymous for some reason...

Yeh, I think I remember that day...destination earth?
Where you based now? - presumably not rivelin quarries still. :wink:

[nik at work]

No, although I would like to go back...

I'm in Todmorden now (just below Bridies).

[uptown]

No, although I would like to go back...

I'm in Todmorden now (just below Bridies).

Surely not unfinished business?
I'll give you a pm next time I'm over westward - likewise let me know if you're keen to meet up to the east - I've found some esoteric venues you might be interested in!  :wink:

[nik at work]

Theres still two or three things that need tidying up - probably by a better man than me though :D

I'll let you know when I'm next headed east.