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Parisella’s Cave (Read 4811 times)

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Parisella’s Cave
March 17, 2006, 12:25:03 pm
Tried doing a search on this one but came up with nought  :(
I also tried searching your site Simon, but it doesn't work.

Is there a definitive list of the Caves problems?  

Also where would be a good place to boulder at the weekend that isn't :

Wave Length
RAC Boulders
Any bits up near the Barrel

What's the Caseg Groove area stuff like?

Cheers

D

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#1 Parisella’s Cave
March 17, 2006, 12:42:02 pm
Can't speak for the cave, but the Caseg boulder is one of the best single boulders in Wales.  The rock is beautiful.  If it's dry and bright its generally a perfect spot to climb.  

In winter, the groove-side tends to get churned-up something rotten by the sheep and isn't so pleasant.

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#2 Parisella’s Cave
March 17, 2006, 12:52:58 pm
Simon has a list of all the cave problems and links. Maybe he'll send it you. As for other places, sheep pen is good but if you ask me its far too cold for bouldering in the mountains at the mo, go to Porth Ysgo, shit drive buts its probably the best venue.

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#3 Parisella’s Cave
March 17, 2006, 01:00:30 pm
Is the cave dry at the mo? Think i'll be climbing there on saturday.

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#4 Parisella’s Cave
March 17, 2006, 01:48:02 pm
Cheers :lol:

Climbed at Porth Ysgo a while back and didn't really get on with it to tell you the truth.  

Funny pics of me not spotting my friend above a death drop covered by 2 very thin S7 pads.............

"Oh look, a pigeon"

"Is that mat ok"

"I'm hungry"

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#5 Parisella’s Cave
March 17, 2006, 01:48:48 pm
As if by magic:

Parisella's / Split Infinity problems and links

1. Pilgrimage/Big Link 8b+
2. Director's Cut 8b
3. Cave Life (In Hell start) 8a+ (as yet unclimbed)
4. In Hell - RA 8a+
5. Greenheart Connection 8a+
6. Dan's Finish 8a+
7. Halfway House 8a+
8. Pilgrimage/Big Link to end of RA 8a/8a+
9. The Highlife 8a
10. Crucial Times 8a
11. In Hell 8a
12. Trigger Cut 7c+/8a
13. Incomplete Youth 7c+/8a
14. Clutch 7c+
15. Lou Ferrino 7c+
16. Pilgrimage/Big Link to start of RA 7c+
17. Pilgrimage/Big Link – last undercut section 7c/7c+?
18. Cave Life from RA diagonal jug 7c/7c+
19. Rock Atrocity 7c
20. Split – Incomplete 7c
21. Left Wall high 7c
22. CB low start 7b+
23. CB low start – Beaver Cleaver 7b+
24. CB low start – Bust Lip 7b+
25. Ring Of Fire (high) 7b+
26. Shot Hole start (high) 7b+
27. Bellpig 7b+
28. The Organ Grinder 7b+
29. Right Wall Traverse reverse – Bust Lip 7b/+
30. Upper Cut 7b/+
31. Nodder's Traverse 7b
32. Dust Kick (high) 7b
33. Split – Youth 7b
34. CB low start – Lipstick 7b
35. CB low start – Beaver RH 7b
36. CB low start – Parisella's original 7b
37. Slim 7b
38. Left Wall Traverse 7a+/7b
39. Clever Beaver 7a+/7b
40. Beaver Cleaver 7a+/7b
41. Right Wall Traverse reverse - Parisella's Original 7a+/7b
42. Lickety Split 7a+
43. Ring of Fire low 7a+
44. Flake Start (high) 7a+
45. CB low start – Right Wall Traverse 7a+
46. Shot Hole start 7a+
47. Right Wall Traverse – Lipstick 7a+
48. Bust Lip 7a+
49. Parisella's Original stand up 7a
50. Pillar Start (high) 7a
51. Lipstick 7a
52. Dust Kick 7a
53. Right Wall Traverse - Beaver RH 7a
54. Right Wall Traverse 6c+
55. Pillar Start (low) 6c
56. The Argument 6c
57. Beaver RH sds 6c
58. Pillar start (low/high) 6b+
59. Beaver RH stand up 6b+
60. Cave rhand sds 6b
61. Pillar Finish 6a+
62. Split Traverse 6a

Significant historical problems
Pit of Hell 8a
Cave Life (original version) 8a

Significant eliminates
LF ramp only 8a+
Flip Flop extension 7b+

Not sure why the search function isn't working on my site? I'll try and get it fixed.

Anyway, you should be able to spot the relevant news items by matching titles in the archive list.

There is still snow in the mountains, but if the sun comes out the Sheep Pen Boulders in the Ogwen valley get it until about 2-3 in the afternoon. The walk up the hill will get you nice and warm too! Plenty to go at here, especially since the landing under Gnasher was sorted out.

The Caseg Boulder is, as others have said, quite stunning, if a little limited. It can easily be combined with a visit to the Braichmelyn boulder, which is quite sheltered.

Not sure what state the cave is in, but I would imagine it is okay judging by the weather in the last few days.

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#6 Parisella’s Cave
March 17, 2006, 02:00:06 pm
Simon you are indeed a star  :D

This is why I like UKbouldering so much :8)

Jim

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#7 Parisella’s Cave
March 17, 2006, 02:28:43 pm
not exactly a death drop and you really shouldn't be falling off from those moves, but another classic case of the infectious peak spotting disorder is spreading to all areas fast

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#8 Parisella’s Cave
March 17, 2006, 02:30:03 pm
ps, if anyone goes to the cave today or tomorrow, can they report back as to the conditions on the off chance that it might be dry.
Cheers

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#9 Parisella’s Cave
March 17, 2006, 02:49:23 pm
pants on; any chance of a photo topo to go with that?  :wink:

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#10 Parisella’s Cave
March 18, 2006, 02:44:04 pm
LF 'rib only' is actually called Full Circle, probably V13/8b.  It needs a second ascent.  Once you have commited to the first move, its no longer an eliminate, as you cant reach the holds in the roof anyway.  Good powerful moves on less than adequate holds, get to it!

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#11 Parisella’s Cave
March 18, 2006, 08:37:36 pm
Number 8, Pilgrimage into RA is definite v12 and one of the best links in there, it deserves its own name, how about Pilgrim?

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#12 Parisella’s Cave
March 18, 2006, 08:38:53 pm
what i meant to say is that its definite 8a+!

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#13 Parisella’s Cave
March 19, 2006, 09:25:14 am
yeah good plan! what about jug start of rock atrocity to the end-'Grimage' eh?


or maybe Disgrace?

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#14 Parisella’s Cave
March 19, 2006, 10:17:11 pm
Found out what the problem with the search mechanism on  northwalesbouldering.com.

Turns out that it doesn't like apostrophes. If you just put Parisella in then the related items come up.

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#16 Parisella’s Cave
March 21, 2006, 06:41:08 pm
Quote from: "Jim"
ps, if anyone goes to the cave today or tomorrow, can they report back as to the conditions on the off chance that it might be dry.
Cheers


cave was drier than its been for ages today

ned

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#17 Parisella’s Cave
March 25, 2006, 10:28:16 pm
On http://www.cragx.com/articles/issue11/parisellas/index.htm it says:

Quote
. Trigger Cut- V12-13 - Font. 8a/8a+ ** - Start hanging ramp, six foot right of the finish of problems four and five. Climb straight out past a drilled pocket, various shot holes and poor edges to a high jug at the lip of the cave. An amazing piece of cellar style snatching, which, as far as I know is still unrepeated at the time of writing. First ascent Chris Davies.


I thought Trigger Cut started beyond the ramp, and the thing that starts on the ramp is called Halfway House (climbed more recently, and just before Director's Cut ).

So, what are the official starting holds for Trigger Cut?

Also, what nick is the cave in at the moment?
Thanks.

Nigel

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#18 Parisella’s Cave
March 25, 2006, 10:45:22 pm
Official starting holds are left hand in a pocket, right hand pinching the lip just down from the crimp. Here's a pic of Nige Callender on the start holds from two different angles:






N.B. This one is on Halfway house, on Trigger Cut you just pull straight off the deck (or as many pads as you need to reach the start holds! Without taking the piss obviously) and into the position shown in the first picture.

ned

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#19 Parisella’s Cave
March 25, 2006, 11:36:01 pm
Thanks dude, it makes sense now.

 

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