[unclesomebody]

Can someone in the know put a topo together for burbage south bouldering.  All the stuff along the edge I mean, once you get past Notorious BLG.  I was out today on some arete problem.  Little James said that the double sided arete next to that blank wall was an old Dawes problem at 7a.  Anyone else done this?  Then, slightly further along is another arete problem, with a good undercut for the right hand to start.  What is this called and what grade?  

Also, does intense go from a sit start or from a french start to get the high right hand?  

cheers.

[dave]

The first thing you mention is Desparête, a dawes thing (i.e. next to the impossible groove). the other thing you mention sounds like midget gem,a welford 7b+ (yeah, you know what that means).

[Kim]

there's no undercut on midget gem is there? you start with a small crimp for right, and left on the arete...

[Scouse D]

There is an undercut, but most people don't use it as its too far right

[dave]

yeah theres an undercut in the diagonal break - like scouse says its a red herring for most. basically you bone the crimp and work up the arete.

[Bonjoy]

There's also a double arete highball thing called Alliance done by P Oxley and in the route guide as E4 6b (starting off block i presume). From the ground it makes an awesome 7a+/7b scary boulder prob.

[unclesomebody]

sweet.  Midget Gem is cool.  I was starting from that undercut for right because i figured if i could add a sit start it would be more likely that i would come into it like that.  Felt alright from a standing start, but I couldn't decide how to put on a decent sit start, either from the left or try to do one direct.  

Thanks for the info.

[a dense loner]

desparete is quality 6c

[Johnny Brown]

desparete is quality 6c

Eh?? Go up there today and find an easier sequence did yer?? Or is that graded 'on-sight' ??

E4 7a more like. Quality I will agree.

[a dense loner]

seriously, i always thought it was 6c. on sight?? i graded it from the alliance boulder. on a cold day more like. but not as cold as yesterday.

[Bonjoy]

seriously, i always thought it was 6c. on sight?? i graded it from the alliance boulder. on a cold day more like. but not as cold as yesterday.

 I think you may be getting confused ( i know i am). The Alliance and Desparete are on seperate bits of rock a goodly way apart.

[a dense loner]

don't worry bonjoy, johnny is merely amusin himself at my expense.  :D
not gettin confused betwixt the probs, but 4sum reason a grade of E2 6c stuck in my head 4 desparete, johnny pointed out on the dog n bone last nite that i was indeed a knob! fell off the 5b move above the break  :roll: but i tell myself that it was gritty.

[mark]

Topo is in development. Watch this space.

What is being referred to above as Midget Gem is actually called The Rib. Concensus seems to be Font 7b+, though I can't do it so I'm taking other people's word for that. Midget Gem is something else, but can't remember what.

Desparete is 10-20m further right, immediately right of Impossible Groove. Johnny gave Desparete E4 7a. Again, I can't do it. Anyone succeeded and care to suggest a boulder grade?

Right another 30 or 40 metres is The Alliance, FA by Pete Oxley who gave it E4 6b. I'm pretty sure this was started from the ground. Certainly I started from the ground as did everyone I know who has done it. I'd reckon somewhere about Font 7a though the scrabbling topout means my memory is clouded by fear! Start from the ground but have a burly trusted spotter perched on the block to field you if you pitch off.

Pretty sure Intense is a standing start using a poor edge and a crap pinch. Once again, I can't do it - bit of a theme here!

[unclesomebody]

Sweet.  Look forward to it.  Cheers.

[Johnny Brown]

I would agree with Johnny on E4 7a for Desparete.

I you want that in french, sept be plus, peut-etre sept ce. C'est un petit haut-boule :wink:

Alliance is prob sept a plus.

[a dense loner]

i concur with johnny n johnny after havin memory jogged. desparete is indeed E4 7a, ignore me. thought that welford thing was called the rib, it's 7b+ again.
does anyone KNOW how intense actually starts?   :?

[unclesomebody]

Thought I'd ressurect this thread instead of posting a new one...

Does anybody KNOW how to start intense, and which holds are used? I presume the left hand goes on that crap pinch thing to start. Then I presume you jump to the right hand crescent shaped crimp (imagine the outside of the crescent!). Then what do you do? There is another hold up and left you can slap to, and then go right hand for the proper top (not the slopey shelf slightly left). Or do you just jump to the first right hand hold and then go to the top?!?! How did jerry originally do this? Al? Can anyone shed any light on this problem? And before anyone says it's a crap wall with poffed holds, I don't care.  :

thanks

[Fiend]

I thought Intense looked pretty cool when I walked past the other day, particularly when the low start is done...

[account_inactive]

I seem to remember Kim doing it in an hour on a cold day.  he should have the beta

[Bonjoy]

He just pulled on with the holds he could reach (he is tall!) and slapped top (or top hold). Reckoned it was a lot less than 8a for him. I've no idea if Jerry started any lower.