[lorentz]

'Ello

Anyone know what the bouldering's like on bodmin moor? Is there any?

My folks are moving down that way soon, so just thought i'd ask the question.  

Cheers.

Lorentz

[SA Chris]

yup, a bit about http://ukbouldering.com/board/search.php

Stick in "bodmin" and a few results come up. Grow some fingertip skin afore ye go.

[lorentz]

Sweeeet. Thanks for the tip, fella.

Should have done a search first really, but still getting to grips with the site. Applying chalk dust to the wet behind my ears now!

Cheers

Lorentz

[SA Chris]

Nae bother. Unfortunately none of the Bodmin spots are extensive, but there is some good stuff scattered about. Bit of info here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Cheesewring/index.shtml

[FatWrinkly]

In a word .. fantastic! Most of it not far from the main road so on a trip west makes a nice wee break .. best rock ever

[SA Chris]

best rock ever

As much as I love the area, I wouldn't go that far.

[lorentz]

Cheers Chaps.

All good stuff. can't wait to get down there. It's got to better than what Balham's got to offer in the way of rock!

Looked at the map and my folks are gonna be just south of Bude where a guy called Simon runs an indoor climbing centre (the barn) according to previous posts. Sounds like he'll know the score as well- will have to get over there on a wet afternoon.

Happy landings.

Lorentz

[SA Chris]

If that's the case I would skip bodmin and head for the coastal stuff around bude; Upton, Sandymouth etc. Get the lowdown from Si Young.

Also get yerself a surfboard.

[tommytwotone]

aye, can vouch for the qualidy of the coastal stuff - I had a look (and I mean a look, I was busted and couldn't climb at the time) a few years back and was well jealous.

And as Chris says...if you're gonna boulder on granite get some thick fingertips, and fast!

[Pasty Crimper]

I would not get too excited about Bude area, its ok but spreadout and a lot of it is abit contrived.

There is a much better concentration of quality problems at Helman Tor (a granite tor just south of Bodmin) sounds like there will be comprehensive guide soon on the new cornwall bouldering site www.blocspenwith.blogspot.com

If you want coastal bouldering check out their Godrevey guide, loads better than the Bude stuff!!

If its wet, Simons wall is definately the best indoor venue though!

[SA Chris]

Is that the same Helman Tor with a little west facing slab on the front and a scattering of blocks on the top and south side? Is that a better concentration?

[Pasty Crimper]

That is the place!!  a load of new/previously unrecorded problems have been done/redone up there. There is a whole host of quality problems on the boulders at the top and back of the tor, there are also a couple of new ones around the cave area. They dont even need much imagination to find.

So with probably in the region of 30 good independent problems in a reasonably small area (15 minutes to walk round the wholeplace) Yes that is a better concentration + generally good landings and no tide or seepage.

[Greg C]

Is that the same Helman Tor with a little west facing slab on the front and a scattering of blocks on the top and south side? Is that a better concentration?

Dave Henderson's just done a new problem at Helman Tor...




 :roll: Not upto Bonjoys standard, but hey I couldn't resist.

[andy_e]

 :roll: Not upto Bonjoys standard, but hey I couldn't resist.

   Not bad though, looks like lots of double dynos!

[Bonjoy]

Those are some sweet slopers he's hanging on move two!

[SA Chris]

That is the place!!  a load of new/previously unrecorded problems have been done/redone up there. There is a whole host of quality problems on the boulders at the top and back of the tor, there are also a couple of new ones around the cave area. They dont even need much imagination to find.

I suspect unrecorded is closer to the mark. Used to travel between Plymouth and the coast regularly for surf trips, often stopping off at Helman to efficiently remove already softened skin. Nice spot, be interested to see write-up and the grades given for the probs.

[SA Chris]

Nice effort Greg, looks a bit Sad(dle) though.

[fatneck]

Near 12 year thread resurrection!

Off to near Liskeard for a week in August. Keen for some skin trashing granite with the family.

Helman Tor looks good but I'm much closer to Bearah, Trewartha and Hawks Tors. Any recs?

[BrutusTheBear]

  Bodmin? Devon?! Next you’ll be putting jam down before the cream..  For the love of geography rename the thread.

[Oldmanmatt]

Bodmin is not in Devon! This is liable to destabilise the peace agreement in the conflict zone.
It’s dangerous enough, even implying that Kernow is part of England ffs.
Can we rename the thread, before the UN needs to get involved.
I know all you Sheffieldites are typical Lancastrians, but...😜

[BrutusTheBear]

Bodmin granite in August = not much fun and not much skin.  Head to a coastal venue.

[fatneck]

Chill out guys!!!!!

Not my original post but close enough that I thought it worth using... Apologies for any offence caused 

My post stated that I'm going in three weeks so it shouldn't be too warm and I know it's in Cornwall. Does this mean I'm allowed some advice?

[ben]

there's plenty on that side of the moor fatneck, ideally you want Barneys excellent guide:

http://www.stivesnews.co.uk/CheesewringClimbing/index.html#Map

which covers both routes and bouldering on the east side..

[SA Chris]

My post stated that I'm going in three weeks so it shouldn't be too warm and I know it's in Cornwall. Does this mean I'm allowed some advice?

you said

Off to near Liskeard for a week in August.

not in 3 weeks?

Unfortunately only been to Helman (not the province).

[fatneck]

I'm such a bellend 

Thanks for that Chris

And thanks for the link Ben! Have a virtual wad...

[BrutusTheBear]

Chill out guys!!!!!

Not my original post but close enough that I thought it worth using... Apologies for any offence caused 

My post stated that I'm going in three weeks so it shouldn't be too warm and I know it's in Cornwall. Does this mean I'm allowed some advice?

  World war 3 has broken out down here due to the resurrection of this thread!   I did follow up with some advice...Head to the coast. 20mins to Downderry 1hour to Tintagel.  Bodmin granite in the summer may not be a plan that will result in climbing fun, hope for a strong breeze and cool air otherwise steer well clear.

[fatneck]

Ha!!! Sorry about that...

Bought the guide - it's always good to have a good excuse for a new guide book

Also downloaded the Luxulyan guide (with appropriate attention paid to banned areas) and am fully psyched for some EASTER GRANITE!!!!!!! 

[ben]

Bought the guide - it's always good to have a good excuse for a new guide book

Also downloaded the Luxulyan guide (with appropriate attention paid to banned areas)

I think there's 3 action pics of me in that guide 

The Wild Hunt is a great problem worth seeking out at Lux.  Take your wellies (and a machete perhaps)

[highrepute]

(and a machete perhaps)

To protect oneself against the Cornish revolutionaries?

[SA Chris]

Cornish brexiteers.

[Oldmanmatt]

(and a machete perhaps)

To protect oneself against the Cornish revolutionaries?

They’re too busy sneaking out at night to dig the Tamar valley further North. Eventually, Kernow shall be an island.

Those aren’t wind farms you see, they’re the secret propulsion system that will carry the island away, once digging is complete.

Forward to Avalon!!

[Danny]

Tintagel: deffo the best boulder in the SW. Godrevy is easily the best venue in Cornwall IMO. But only if you get the conditions. I'd rather boulder on Kilmar than go to Downderry...
Priest's Cove definitely worth in the 7s: limited but classy.

[BrutusTheBear]

So I missed the going in 3 weeks bit and thought we were talking August....
Trewortha has a big circuit and some newer 7s courtesy of Tom Bunn.
Failing that get yerself to the Arse Stones bei. 

[fatneck]

So weather was more suitable to walking and fishing (of which there was plenty) and the only day of good weather we got was the day of the wedding we had built the holiday around!! We did manage to get out for a couple of hours on that day to Sharp Tor (close by and short walk in) and I still have a hole in my hand!

Lovely stuff.

Keen to return!

[seankenny]

Thought I'd resurrect this thread as I'm off on holiday to Callington in a couple of week and it's apparently close to Bodmin Moor (20 mins drive). Does anyone have any topos or pdfs etc with basic info? I'm not sure on shelling out £19 for the guide, I already have a troublesome guidebook habit!

Any recommendations of good problems in the 6s also much appreciated.

[EdGowSmith]

Thought I'd resurrect this thread as I'm off on holiday to Callington in a couple of week and it's apparently close to Bodmin Moor (20 mins drive). Does anyone have any topos or pdfs etc with basic info? I'm not sure on shelling out £19 for the guide, I already have a troublesome guidebook habit!

Any recommendations of good problems in the 6s also much appreciated.

Trewortha Tor and Kilmar Tor are well worth a visit, both approached from the same parking, and lots of stuff to do at both in the 6s. In terms of guidebooks / topos there isn't anything available to my knowledge (typical for Cornish venues!)*. I've had a look in the Cheesewring guide before and there's some stuff in there but it's very limited. You're best bet is to go off UKC or just have an explore. It's a lovely place.

*There is a Cornish select bouldering guide in the works I think.

[SA Chris]

Ginster's factory shop in Callington, beware!

[Ged]

Thought I'd resurrect this thread as I'm off on holiday to Callington in a couple of week and it's apparently close to Bodmin Moor (20 mins drive). Does anyone have any topos or pdfs etc with basic info? I'm not sure on shelling out £19 for the guide, I already have a troublesome guidebook habit!

Any recommendations of good problems in the 6s also much appreciated.

It wouldn't take long to get to burrator, and access the combestone and cuckoo rock area of dartmoor. Probably better if you're after a quick hit with obvious stuff to do. Usual caveat of not bouldering on granite when it's warm and muggy of course.

[jstrongman]

Kilmar and Terwortha really close to Callington and would be worth a shout for an early morning session and would be stunning up there. More of a day trip I would say Hartland (1hr's drive) has loads of 6 & 7's and there is still a free guide on the Javu website https://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/HartlandBouldering/Hartland_Topo_Javu2.pdf    Tintagel also ~40mins

[BrutusTheBear]

I really like Trewortha Tor, it's a great venue, loads of problems, lots of strong lines and features. The information on UKC is adequate to find your way around and the boulders locations are marked on the UKC map.
Grades definitely feel a bit sand baggy.
Anything starred on UKC is generally good, in the sixes would recommend anything on the Solitary Boulder, Mustang, a cheeky solo of Just Good Friends, anything on Nice Arse (highball), Full Moon, Blood Brothers (tape up!), Uniform Dawn.  It is the kind of place you can walk around and just climb what you like the look of.
If you're feeling strong Solly's new ish 8b Crown Worthy needs a repeat!
There is most definitely a Cornwall bouldering guide in the pipeline courtesy of Tom Last and Tom Bunn.  Maybe it will go to print soon but folk keep adding quality new stuff which has to go in the guide!

[seankenny]

Thanks for all the info chaps, much appreciated 

[kingholmesy]

There is most definitely a Cornwall bouldering guide in the pipeline courtesy of Tom Last and Tom Bunn.  Maybe it will go to print soon but folk keep adding quality new stuff which has to go in the guide!

Having seen the work in progress on Tom Last’s phone on Saturday night, this is going to be really good when it arrives.  I think there’s still a fair bit to do, but it’s getting there.