[Rice Boy]

Is Little Rascal V5 (Burbage Milstone ..) from standing and Font 7a+ (bouldering bible) from sitting?

Quality climb.

[mark]

Is Little Rascal V5 (Burbage Milstone ..) from standing and Font 7a+ (bouldering bible) from sitting?

Quality climb.

Pretty sure that the 7a+ given in Ru's guide is from standing as well. I thought 7a+ was nearer the mark that the V5 given in the new BMC guide. BMC gives V10 for the sitter. Think the sitter was still a project when Ru's guide was written.

[Scouse D]

yeah V5 seems harsh for the stand up. Feels 7a/+ to me.

[al]

anyone know who did the sitter?
.....seems a bit fuzzy as to where to get on, ie it is hard if your cheeks are firmly seated on the ground/mat, but ok if one exercises a yorkshire start (bit of a breeze wafting under the said cheeks)
.........or is this getting too anal ?

[webbo]

anyone know who did the sitter?
.....seems a bit fuzzy as to where to get on, ie it is hard if your cheeks are firmly seated on the ground/mat, but ok if one exercises a yorkshire start (bit of a breeze wafting under the said cheeks)
.........or is this getting too anal ?

an there was i thinking that was a peak start.or is that the one where you start from sitting in your mates lap.

[Ru]

anyone know who did the sitter?
.....seems a bit fuzzy as to where to get on, ie it is hard if your cheeks are firmly seated on the ground/mat, but ok if one exercises a yorkshire start (bit of a breeze wafting under the said cheeks)
.........or is this getting too anal ?

I think it was done by Mike Lea, from a propa sitta, with the report I heard being that all taller members of the party struggled mightily. I think Percy should be able to shed light on this as he was probably there.

[mark]

anyone know who did the sitter?
.....seems a bit fuzzy as to where to get on, ie it is hard if your cheeks are firmly seated on the ground/mat, but ok if one exercises a yorkshire start (bit of a breeze wafting under the said cheeks)
.........or is this getting too anal ?

BMC guide says Neil Travers did the FA of the sitter. No mention of his posterior positioning.

[Ru]

So much for my sources then. I'll have to get some new ones.

[fatboySlimfast]

Was speaking to Travs back end(anal again) of last year, he said he had done it. Wether he was the 1st

[grimer]

.........or is this getting too anal ?

I gave it V5 because it felt like that, ie, the amount of difficulty i'd normally experience on that grade. I must admit to being very surprised to see Ru's 7a+ (even more surprised to see that the alliance got the same, as again, I thought this was V4/5).

Perfectly willing to accept that i found these easier than average because of long arms, legs or whatever.

Percy told me about the Neil Travers sitter by the way, so i presume he'd tell you the same thing, although he may have more information on his starting position (will not attempt to better any of the above bum jokes).

[cofe]

tis one of the few soft touches in Ru's guide.

[Ru]

I gave it V5 because it felt like that, ie, the amount of difficulty i'd normally experience on that grade. I must admit to being very surprised to see Ru's 7a+ (even more surprised to see that the alliance got the same, as again, I thought this was V4/5).

Must admit I thought them both about font 6c/V5, but went off what others were saying. A fair few soft touches have appeared in my guide and annoyingly many of the new grades tally quite well with my own feelings at the time - hard to know whether to stick to your guns or whether to go with the consensus. Some of the other stuff that's come down had not had many repeats before the guide, but lots after.

[grimer]

I wouldn't worry too much about that Ru, I think people understand that you do your best and go to all reasonable efforts, which you obviously did, to get things right, but in the end, some anomolies will slip through. Although even that doen't mean they're 'wrong'. Truth is, Little Rascal and Alliance may well be V7 for some and V4 for others. Grades may be a science, but that doesn't mean they're going to be scientific.

[Rice Boy]

Truth is, Little Rascal and Alliance may well be V7 for some and V4 for others. Grades may be a science, but that doesn't mean they're going to be scientific.

Good call.

Whilst some pissed up alliance (tallies) I burnt stonger, taller climbers of Rascal ,balancy layback climbs being a personal favourite.

[cofe]

thing is the release of Ru's guide only brought a lot of these probs to light and so the grades only settled after, following some attention not seen previous.

[dave]

on little raasclat i hactually found the crux to be the move from the first sopey ledge to the second - i did the start groove bit in a couple of goes but had to come back a year later to top it out.

[Percy B]

Trav's sitter is a proper sitter - as in you start sat on the floor or one mat if you like. The first move is truely horrific but do-able, but makes the set up to do Little Rascal proper a lot harder. Trav's suggested 7c+ at the time, myself and others who've tried it reckon it could be even harder. Its not been repeated to my knowledge. I have left the floor on it, but couldn't finish it off! Maybe next time........