[nathan wind]

Can anyone tell me what the problem Ben Moon is trying in the bonus bouldering section of Dosage 4 is called? oh and where it is? Involves him using a horizontal slot and hard looking press / mantle onto a slab.. quite high and green too by the look of things..

[ferret]

looks like the angels share at black rocks to me

[nathan wind]

Cheers, what grade is it? couldn't find it in the new peak guide..

[Adam Lincoln]

Cheers, what grade is it? couldn't find it in the new peak guide..

It used to E8 7a i think. But with lots of pads, could be highballed, as per Ben Moon.

[Johnny Brown]

Haven't seen it, but if its just the rockover bit that's originally the start to Velvet Silence, the E6 that goes right. British 6b for the rockover, 6c to get out to the arete.

[ferret]

not clear but he seems to be somewhere in the midlle of the 2; ie angels share left

[ferret]

right i mean

[Johnny Brown]

Not making much sense there ferret.
From r-l its Jumpin on a beetle stepping up and left to the left arete, Angel's share up the middle of the slab, Velvet silence step right to right arete then up. All three share the start to get stood on the chipped gutter/ rail thing.
Then there's Make it slappy, the direct start on Velvet Silence - v. good and overlooked.

[Jim]

hes going up the middleish, not to either arete
so angels share it must be

[Stubbs]

What sort of font grades are these? Look like really good highball problems.

[Johnny Brown]

With a lot of pads, Jumpin might be 7b+, but the crux is high enough to put most off. Angel's Share has yet to have a ground-up ascent, so you couldn't really call it a highball. Expect 7c/ 7c+ smearing with no handholds. Again, with a load of pads you could call Velvet Silence 7b but most boulderers aren't going to be bold enough - ie it feels E5 rather than E6. Make it slappy is probably 7b+/ 7c but you have to finish up Velvet Silence, again balls required, especially for the changing sides move.

They are all superb though, well worth the fear.

[Stubbs]

Cheers Johnny, as always it's hard to tell how high stuff is off video, will have to go and check the butress out.

[nathan wind]

Cheers everyone, thanks for the info, looks an absolutely stellar line!

[SA Chris]

Does anyone know the history of the chipped rail/gutter thing? I assume it predates climbing there?

[Bonjoy]

It definately predates the FA of Velvet Silence by a long time I think. Like the similar gutters on Tierdrop, Chipshop Mantle, Short Seans Reachy Roof and Hermits Cave (Cratcliffe) I presumed it was to direct water away from people/animals using the rock for shelter.

[SA Chris]

That was my guess too, too shallow to have been used for any roofing materials, like the square holes at Bridestones.

[nash1]

Ethics were obviously different back there in the stone age, bet they used pof on the grit too...