Lou Ferrino (Read 10969 times)

steven82 · February 16, 2006, 11:09:45 am

I need some help i can get to the good ledge crimp thing and make the move to the next slopey holds but i couldn't really see a way to the finish shot holes without it being a wild slap. If anyone can tell me how to finish it or if theres a vid out there which would help that would be fantastic.

Jim · February 16, 2006, 11:14:25 am

from bad memory, Rh up to a pinch, Lh slap to sloper then again to slopey thing, heel up, match, LH to slot then rfoot on and up and over to top slot, match finish.
Warning this could possibly be totaly wrong

dobbin · February 16, 2006, 01:25:34 pm

I can remember even less, but if you are getting to the rail you have only the fairly steady bit to go to finish. Honestly!

Therefore, if you are making wild slaps you are missing something. Sorry, it was summer when I was last there. Hopefully one of those lovely welshys will put us straight.

Pantontino · February 16, 2006, 01:49:35 pm

The confusion over the finishing section of LF is common. Most people don't realise that you can use the drilled pocket up right. The problems in the cave are not eliminates - if you can reach something, then use it. The only real rules are starting and finishing positions.

So, from the posi finger rail (left hand), right hand up to sloper, heel hook (right foot) on large sloper that your right hand has just vacated, left foot gets a subtle drag in a niche in the roof. Adjust right heel so that it doesn't rip, hard move to bring left hand up to a further sloper just left of right hand. Adjust right heel again, and make hard pull up right to backhand intermediate (this used to be a finger jam, until the block broke off - Nodder is planning to glue it back on soon), then drill pocket. Swing left to take Rock Atrocity drill pocket with left, then go over the top with your right to the final break. The section to get the first drill pocket seems to cause problems for taller climbers, whilst stumpies struggle with the comparatively easy swing left to the RA pocket.

It's well worth getting this section absolutely dialled, because it is likely to be the redpoint crux, even though it is easier than the first section.

saltbeef · February 16, 2006, 05:04:15 pm

panton have you done it with and without the broken hold? does it alte the difficulty? may drag myself overr with huf at some point...

Doylo · February 16, 2006, 06:33:47 pm

the broken slot only affects the greenheart connection and the big link, you don't need it for Lou Ferrino

Pantontino · February 16, 2006, 09:07:34 pm

The loss of finger jam doesn't make that much difference for LF as you can still stop on it briefly as a gaston before you move again to the drill pocket.

People who are climbing within their grade (like Doylo or Huffy) will just go straight to the pocket.

steven82 · February 16, 2006, 10:22:48 pm

cheers panton we were wondering about that drilled pocket it makes sense now hopefully next time i'm down i should be able to get it.

dobbin · May 01, 2006, 10:58:19 am

well, I went to the cave yesterday and had a rude awakening. From last summers two sections of Lou Ferrino I had hoped to get a good link in but alas, I was rubbish! couldnt seem to remember the two moves to get the rail.

From the start, rh rounded boss undercut thing, lh edge, lf nubbin, rf pad on anywhere, lh to pinchy edge thing, rheel round faint lip, rh rounded boss thing, rf good hold, lf in starting edge crack, egyptian to the right, lh to undercutty side hold, lf out of start edge, onto nubbin above, rheel on rounded boss thing, rh to rubbish undercut boss, adjust. So I can do that bit, which leaves me just before the sloper and the rail. Do you take the sloper first? where are your feet for this move?

Any help or advice gratefully recieved!

Doylo · May 01, 2006, 06:48:06 pm

Get the sloper first, if your tall like me you can keep your feet in the first left hand hold.Put your right heel on the second right hand hold, then clamp you left foot (heel or toe) to get the finger jug. Let me know when you go back dobs

dobbin · May 02, 2006, 08:48:28 am

nice one Doylio - looks good for the coming Saturday...

The Sausage · March 07, 2008, 05:52:44 pm

...i'm dredging up an old thread here. Anybody got a video of Lou Ferrino (Lou ferrigno?)

Doylo · March 25, 2008, 04:32:27 pm

Most of it climbed here Joe

[youtube=425,350]<object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/IkVgF0UHwxw&hl=en"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/IkVgF0UHwxw&hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object>[/youtube]

superfurrymonkey · March 25, 2008, 05:06:30 pm

How`s Danny do the third move? Is he doing an Egyptian in the pod or something else?

The Sausage · March 25, 2008, 05:12:28 pm

my god. what a link. more sustained than nigel tuffnell's guitar... i went out and made a cup of tea and he was STILL going. what is the route grade of that? cheers for the vid chris. see you

Doylo · March 25, 2008, 09:05:19 pm

Quote from: superfurrymonkey on March 25, 2008, 05:06:30 pm

How`s Danny do the third move? Is he doing an Egyptian in the pod or something else?

Yeah your on the money.

Quote from: The Sausage on March 25, 2008, 05:12:28 pm

my god. what a link. more sustained than nigel tuffnell's guitar... i went out and made a cup of tea and he was STILL going. what is the route grade of that? cheers for the vid chris. see you

Hard one to route grade, V12, font 8a+ usually equates to 8c i spose. The climbings not desperate apart from that undercut move although it is pretty sustained thats for sure! Joe Joe the orme is calling you....

Jim · March 25, 2008, 09:33:59 pm

Just tell him the holds are like banisters

Doylo · March 26, 2008, 10:38:26 am

i'm not telling him that, he'll do it blindfolded then!

superfurrymonkey · March 26, 2008, 10:56:19 am

This is getting done today.

Doylo · March 26, 2008, 11:11:28 am

if that holds dry! I'm having a late one there

superfurrymonkey · March 26, 2008, 11:23:26 am

Last orders is it? fnarff fnarff better not be drink driving! chortle wheeze spurtle

The Sausage · June 03, 2008, 05:42:32 pm

Well, partly in the interests of showing off, and partly 'cause I think it demonstrates the beta rather well I thought I'd put a video of me doing said problem on. I stole Jerry Moffat's face for the occasion, which I think made the difference between success and failure...

dave · June 03, 2008, 07:09:19 pm

so you didn't actually tap the back of your hand to finish?

Houdini · June 03, 2008, 07:57:42 pm

Joe, you need to eat some food, man.

Jim · June 04, 2008, 06:50:11 am

Quote from: dave on June 03, 2008, 07:09:19 pm

so you didn't actually tap the back of your hand to finish?

I'm sure you'll get it next time le sausage

dobbin · June 04, 2008, 07:52:47 am

nice vid. made me want to jump in the car and go straight there.

lagerstarfish · June 04, 2008, 08:23:18 pm

Quote from: Jim on June 04, 2008, 06:50:11 am

Quote from: dave on June 03, 2008, 07:09:19 pm
so you didn't actually tap the back of your hand to finish?
I'm sure you'll get it next time le sausage

I have not been to The Cave recently. Am I right in thinking that having both hands in contact with the same crag constitutes a legitimate finish?

Good effort Mr Sausage

The Sausage · June 05, 2008, 07:34:03 am

Quote from: Jim on June 04, 2008, 06:50:11 am

Quote from: dave on June 03, 2008, 07:09:19 pm
so you didn't actually tap the back of your hand to finish?
I'm sure you'll get it next time le sausage

Now, know you two fools are joking (or better be), but when you get the last hold of Lou (with your right), compared with getting it as for Rockatrocity (with your left) you're in a solid position and could pick your nose before matching or tapping any part of the crag within reach. With Rockatrocity, the hand match is possibly one of the harder moves, and therefore important. blah blah blah.