[blockhead]

I use the minus ten wall as regular warm up before an assault on the grit and have now done... or tried most of the problems in Ru's guide and the rockfax, with a few notable exceptions. The only ''official' problem i have done that isn't in the guides is dense's white ladder. There has to loads more out there, probably some classics of the moffat and moon era. What are they and how hard.

C'mon tell us yor problems!

Here some photos of the place to use/jog ya memory.

Apologies in advance if i can't get the pictures to work.







[Have edited correct image URLs in. You need to right click on the image once it is in the gallery. Then copy-paste the whole of URL into your post. - Bonjoy]

[blockhead]

Bugger. Don't understand this at all. Have tried to do this:

You put a web page location in the image tag rather than the image location. If you go to the gallery page showing the image you want then right click on the image and select "Copy image location" or something similar. Then paste this in the img tags in your message then the wonders of the interoweb will display the image in your post.

But when i right click on the image in the gallery it doesnt give me the option to "copy image location". If i select "copy shortcut" that doesn't seem to work. Computers are shit.

Can anyone explain this to me in words of one syllable?

[Bonjoy]

Have already done it for you. I'm not sure if Nik used a Mac or something as his instructions are a little misleading. Correct way is:
 Right click on image
 Select Properties. This will open a box with a link in the middle. This is the URL.
 Copy this URL. Make sure you get the whole of it, if its long some will be off page and require you to scroll onto it.
 Insert between tags as you did.

Also, it is better if you resize your image before posting on gallery, to save on memory and make it more user/screen size friendly. This can be done using all manner of programs.

[blockhead]

Cheers. Think i understand now... although i said that last time.

I did resize those shots before submitting them - whats optimum size for viewing on the forum? and do your picures appear when you 'preview' your message or is it just the code?

That last picture is your starter for 10.

Sit start, hands in break, sidepull sloper, small crimp, good diagonal sidepull to top break. Feet anywhere 'cept in the two vertical cracks - two hard rock ups about 7b/7b+. Sure it or something like it will have been done many times before.

[Bonjoy]

Yes the image should show in preview.
 I'd say around 500-600 pixels wide for landscape and 300-400 pixels wide for portrait.

[nik at work]

The problem with my instructions is that they assume you are using firefox. Perhaps not a reasonable assumption, so just add the following bit to the start of theinstructions and it will all make sense:-

Install and use firefox as your web browser.

[dave]

alright, here is the holds for dense's white ladder:



of course althought we all call it dense's white ladder, it will inevitably have been done by every man and their dog in the 80s. supposed to be 7b+/c

[a dense loner]

The only ''official' problem i have done that isn't in the guides

therein lies the rub dave. blockheads already done it. originally done by 3 passing gypseys i believe

[dave]

aye i know he's done it, i posted it for everyone else's benefit. just call me a good muthafucking samaritan (i don't mean that in the sense of "call me a taxi").

[a dense loner]

you're too kind, don't make a habit of it tho some women don't like it

[blockhead]

Yes the image should show in preview.
 I'd say around 500-600 pixels wide for landscape and 300-400 pixels wide for portrait.

Cheers Bonjoy, its all slowly starting to make sense. Now i know the image will appear in preview i wont have to make any posts in the hope that the pictures will just sort themselves out somehow.

If its any consolation i'm really good at programming the video recorder. I can get it work nearly every time.

[Andy Harris]

Bit busy at the mo but I will try to post some other stuff over the next months or so. There were a No of things not included in the guide due to space (a pre-requisite of my section being that I appear on every page) :wink:

Some particularly dirty little Nos and a few nice other things.

Funnily enough I always used the grit as a warm up for stoney!

Andy

[blockhead]

Cheers Andy, it will be much appreciated. Already looking forward to wrestling with them crimps and frictionless footholds. Nice.

[james]

For a bonus point, do white ladder from a sit.  Adds a few interesting and quite tricky moves. 7c

[r-man]

For a bonus point, do white ladder from a sit. Adds a few interesting and quite tricky moves. 7c

Using what holds? The break?

And how do people usually do the top move - where do they put their feet? Presumably there is a better way than leaping with both feet in the break?

[Jim]

the top move is a big leap, thats how its done. Its blind putting your feet on

[james]

Sit is as follows:
Outside left foot on shit edge/slot (next to pollished nothing sloper)
Right foot flagging right
Left hand in break
Right hand on undercut/break (just right of main white ladder right foothold for standup)
Right foot to "main white ladder right foothold for standup" (just left of right hand, feeld bunched)
Right hand starting sidepull of white ladder standup
Left hand starting crimp of WL standup
Finish WL

[r-man]

the top move is a big leap, thats how its done. Its blind putting your feet on

I realise there has to be a certain amount of jumping, I was just wondering if there are better footholds to jump off than both feet in the break? I know it's blind, that's why I asked, as I was getting getting knackered hanging on the crimps and trying to find the best foothold. Decided in the end that maybe getting a left foot quite high on the smear beneath the bulge might be the way, though it was the end of the session and I didn't get a chance to try it, so this could be nonsense...

The sit start sounds like good clean finger snapping fun.  :shock:  :D

[dave]

think andy did it with oleft foot on a blind foothold above the break. the one with brushmarks on it.

[Jim]

thats the one you use...

[blockhead]

I used right toe on an obvious and good smear about 6 inches above the break. You can see it on daves photo - between starting holds and just above break - a small white patch in... a dark sea of grey. Easy to see and place from the top 2 crimps. It makes last move a steady pop not an all out leap.

[abarro81]

Right, so Dave's pic with the white ladder holds earlier in the thread seem's to be gone.. What are the rules? Got some psyche to get to stoney once my exams are out of the way.

[Kingy]

Using the diagram on p324 of the guide, pull on with your right foot on a polished good bit of the break, using small sidepull 8 for your RH and small crimp 4 for your LH. Lock up for a small grey crimp with the RH then aim for a really bad crimp for the LH that slants down from R to L. Bring your left foot up into the best bit of the break below your LH and then spring for the jug in the break, a classic yet frustrating move! I could never reach the apex of the jug and went for it on the lowest part on the right hand side but I believe for the full approved tick, one must grab the true apex (only at Minus 10!) A sit start exists and is supposed to be 7c but seems pretty contrived, I could never figure it out. Enjoy!

[Duma]

I believe for the full approved tick, one must grab the true apex

A sit start exists and is supposed to be 7c but seems pretty contrived

 

[abarro81]

Presumably the second holds aren't numbered on the topo? Above 5 and 6, between 2 and 10?

[Kingy]

Presumably the second holds aren't numbered on the topo? Above 5 and 6, between 2 and 10?

Unfortunatley no, I don't think there was space in the guide to include this problem and those two crimps are not numbered. You will see what I mean about the sitter... If you like this, do the 7b+ problem 3. Really tenuous sidepulls, another classic!

[Kingy]

Above 5 and 6, between 2 and 10?

Sorry I missed this. yes the grey crimp is below 10 I think, its like a razor blade, u can't miss it, a real skin shredder. yes the diagonal crimp for the LH is a bit right of 2, just a bit below the first break, also tiny!

[Falling Down]

Is it dry?

[r-man]

A sit start exists and is supposed to be 7c but seems pretty contrived, I could never figure it out.

The beta from James is:

Outside left foot on shit edge/slot (next to pollished nothing sloper)
Right foot flagging right
Left hand in break
Right hand on undercut/break (just right of main white ladder right foothold for standup)
Right foot to "main white ladder right foothold for standup" (just left of right hand, feeld bunched)
Right hand starting sidepull of white ladder standup
Left hand starting crimp of WL standup
Finish WL

[Kingy]

Thanks Robin, I tried to use this beta and did an easy sit start but you can just reach straight from the break with the RH up to the starting crimp for the LH so to get all bunched up like that is contrived to say the least when you can just reach thru from the break. I will stand corrected tho if somebody can demonstrate this.

[a dense loner]

kingy did you just say you can reach up rh for the crimp you use left handed? a curse on you and all yours. you're at stoney, you can't do non-eliminates . white ladder went to the apex since i could static to the bottom and this wasn't cricket.

[a dense loner]

ps my way of doing the sitter was absolutely moronic and i can't believe a grown man was trying it that way

[abarro81]

I think Kingy meant "straight from the break with the RH up to the starting crimp for the LH" in the sense that his RH is in the break, not that he reaches the crimp with the wrong hand..
Anyway, where in Sheffield sells lycra shorts hey?

[Kingy]

I was reaching up with my LH to the starting LH crimp on the stand start with my RH in the break which basically reached through most of the difficulties of the sit start described above. This is a shame as I don't mind eliminates where certain holds are ruled out as you can pretend they're not there. However, ones where you have to avoid doing a reach between allowed holds that you could otherwise do in order to contrive difficulty seems a bridge too far. However, what do I know, as Dense says, whilst at Stoney you can't do non-eliminates!! 

[Ackbar]

I have a new problem at stoney.

You climb "Tom's Roof", all the way to the last move.  And when you get there, instead of matching on the final hold, you fall to the ground and swear loudly