[Bubba]

To quote Alex Huber:

To be really good at bouldering you have to be really explosive, and since the explosive power declines after the age of 26 - 28, I've become too old…

Shit, that's me screwed then - is this fact or fiction?

[dave]

Probably bollocks, afterall its not as if Ben, Jerry, Malc, Gaskins etc are all in their teens is it?

[Bubba]

I wonder if it's because their technique is better now though, and they are actually less strong?

[dave]

Maybe, but to be honest i don't see Gaskins cracking-off 8cs by getting less strong!

I recon the best gauge of this would be on the campus board.

[Bubba]

How old are Gaskins & Smith?

[dave]

Gaskins is over 30.

[Bubba]

Aaah, but he has power from a divine source :wink:

I think perhaps that the initial argument is wrong - I don't think bouldering is all about explosive power - on some things, definitely, but I think it's too much of a generalisation.

[dave]

Damn rite. Theres loads of aretes, slabs, crimpy walls, traverses etc that require almost zero power.

[RichardB]

I would have thought that bouldering would be a bit like a technical throwing event in athletics. Although power maxes out in the late twenties, the technicality of the sport means that people tend to peak in their 30's.

I am probably as strong as I was 15 years ago but I have lost a lot of ....how would you put it?...the looseness and ease of youth. I would have been reasonable at Dynos when I was a kid, but tend to avoid them now as they shock the system.

Anyway, I only started last year so I hope I can continue to improve for a few years yet!

Richard aged 42 & 2/3.

[nik at work]

After my performance this weekend I would say that the peak is at 26-27, but by 28 you're only good for spotting and providing sandwiches....

[fatboySlimfast]

Hmmmmmmmmm
so why are all the sprinters/shot putters/discuss throwers/triple jumpers etc etc at olympic levels happily competeing until there in there 30's?
Climbing is a technical discipline, i feel im bouldering better know than i was in My 20's, even though im fatter and defo weaker.

[T.H.]

I don't know about 'explosive power' (maybe a topic for my dissertation), but strength is something that can be easily improved through out your life.  It is easier to make dramatic improvements when you're young, which is why a lot of the best climbers started young, but you can still make big gains virtually whatever age you are, considering Gaskins is at the top of his game, he started incredibly old compared to most athletes.

More importantly though strength, unlike cardio-respiratory efficiency, is much harder lost through age, especially if you keep training, which is why a lot of individuals, who would be seen as 'over the hill' in other sports are still kicking the arse of many youngsters.

Power is only the rapid recruitment of fast twitch muscle fibres, and I see no reason why that should decline through age alone.  I might find some info on it.

(christ I'm boring!)
 :?

[gollum]

Probably difficult to tell at the moment as training techniques, knowledge and facilities have improved dramatically over the last ten-twelve years.

As an individual I reckon that I am stronger than I was when I was younger and this is noticeable during training. However, I do agree that the big improvement in climbing is in technique, although I am still pretty much a thug most of the time.

[dobbin]

I was thinking about this last night (you scared me into believing the end was nigh) and came to the conclusion that the really good climbers have amazing self awareness and body control. What I mean by this is that guys like Ben Moon have an incredible sense of where their bodies are and how to move them efficiently, couple that with years of strength training and you have an awesome climber.

I reckon its possible to train strength to a level where you can hide bad technique but ultimately the guys who have that spatial awareness will always be that step ahead. I guess this is borne out by people like Dave Graham who can't lock off and Paul Higginson who can.

hmm.