[clm]

i just climbed my project in an inconsequential lancs quarry.
unfortunatey it is a bit eliminate but follows a strong line.

Crack Horse - Highball V6/7

"The key" is a 5b crack line at Brownstones which has a thinner, once pegged, right hand branch which leaves the main crack at 1/3 height.

climb this crack eliminating all parts of the main crack once the two diverge from the obvious flat jug in a hole at 7 feet.

(apologies to all those who are intolerant of eliminates)

P.S.  No one saw me do it.  Does this mean that Boux 8C is gonna call me a liar?

[Fiend]

Sounds all very r-man to me  :roll:

But well done anyway.

[clm]

its a good line honest  :roll: - you can see it in the bible  :roll: -  the crack going rightwards out of problem 54 page 200 :roll: (im a sad man arent i )

[Jim]

yes

[r-man]

Yep it's a good line, and a good effort to climb it, especially with just one mat and no spotters. I rounded the corner to see Clm sitting triumphantly and slightly breathlessly at the top. I've seen him work the moves and the mid hieght crux, with a rh fingerlock in the crack and a left hand on an unlikely looking undercling is pretty impressive. And it's not really that eliminate at all, it just starts up one route and goes a different direction as soon as it's possible.

clm, fame of the smallest possible kind is yours, but it's fame nontheless:

http://members.lycos.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/homeslb.htm?

:

Oh, and re colt, this is the beta Paul Robins gave me:

Yeh colts a weird one, its about getting your feet right, and probably being 6 foot helps. From the break at the bottom, go right hand to small sharp moon shaped crimp up and right, then feet up on big footholds and reach out left hand to shot hole in middle of wall. you can kind of layaway the hole and crimp with your thumb on a ripple, this helps loads. Then get your feet as high as you can, i kinda of rocked onto my left foot as you slap/dyno/rockover all in one for the 2/3 finger crimp/hole in the middle of the wall. Right then up to a small crimp layaway and a big reach to a good crimp with right hand, then acouple of crimps to to the top. Dead odd problem, did it years ago, but couldnt do it this year, think a strong 'left leg' helps.

I have a bad feeling that the crimp you snapped off is the crucial moon-shaped thing he's talking about...and the move we tried (and dismissed) to slap upwards to the pocket/crimp in the break is now a little more unlikely...
 

[Jim]

ps. its propably much harder than v6/7 as clm is quite lanky and weighs nothing and is currently on form. oh yeah and if he tells you he only climbs up to V7 don't believe him. There are enough liers in this sport already (apparently)  :D
Good effort clm btw

[bigphil]

Bon effort sir.

[andy_e]

Waddage man, I unfortunately was watching the Earl beat the pants off everybody at the BBCs, or at longridge (currently in terrible greasy state) with dobbin.

R-hombre, have you given it a go?

[r-man]

Briefly. Got to the crux and decided it was pretty tricky - and that fingerlock is mean. One to come back to, preferably with a couple more mats.

[a dense loner]

longridge with andi eh dobbin? gettin involved in his stalking activities :wink:

[account_inactive]

i just climbed my project in an inconsequential lancs quarry.
unfortunatey it is a bit eliminate but follows a strong line.

Crack Horse - Highball V6/7

"The key" is a 5b crack line at Brownstones which has a thinner, once pegged, right hand branch which leaves the main crack at 1/3 height.

climb this crack eliminating all parts of the main crack once the two diverge from the obvious flat jug in a hole at 7 feet.

(apologies to all those who are intolerant of eliminates)

P.S.  No one saw me do it.  Does this mean that Boux 8C is gonna call me a liar?

I could be wrong but I thought that this had been done before..............

[r-man]

Not as far as I know, and I've talked to most of the major activists of the past few years - Geoff Hibbert, Andy Kay, Matt Leigh, Paul Robins and you, as well as a few others. Andi_e talked to Ryan Pasquil last night but he was a bit hazy about what he'd done in the past. What was it he said Andi? I don't want to misquote...

Anyway, that crack has never come up, and Clm did do a LOT of gardening.

[andy_e]

Andi_e talked to Ryan Pasquil last night but he was a bit hazy about what he'd done in the past. What was it he said Andi? I don't want to misquote...

To be honest, I can't remember, and he was quite mashed...

[a dense loner]

i think i remember him saying "will you stop following me and talking shit on the interweb"

[Jim]

Ryan can't remember if he's done brad pit or not, I doubt he's gonna remember some eliminate at brownstones

[r-man]

Yeah, I have that problem too. I certainly can't remember doing brad pit. It's funny, there are loads of problems I don't remember doing...

[clm]

Two to three hours on an ab rope in the rain in october armed with a spade, an ice axe, a trowel and a bloody big scrubbing brush certainly didnt suggest an attempt in the last five to ten years.  it was HEAVILY carpeted with goo/algae as well cos the three feet deep layer of soil, mud and moss i dug off the top retained loads of moisture and kept a regular seep down it - a good few well established ferns in the finger crack too.

Its got a (shit) name now anyhoo.

the words crawling and woodwork ...

By the way dense, i think i did one of you Wimberry projects back in 1987

[account_inactive]

Two to three hours on an ab rope in the rain in october armed with a spade, an ice axe, a trowel and a bloody big scrubbing brush certainly didnt suggest an attempt in the last five to ten years. it was HEAVILY carpeted with goo/algae as well cos the three feet deep layer of soil, mud and moss i dug off the top retained loads of moisture and kept a regular seep down it - a good few well established ferns in the finger crack too.

Will make a change from having to do this en-route as is usually the way in the quarries  

As i said, I thought it MAY have been done as its fairly obvious (if you have climbing at Brownstones).  I've seen stuff in the quarries that has become that overgrown after a 1st ascent though.  Last time I climbed at anglezarke i had to clean loads of shit off some of the more popular routes.........................


Congrats on the route though