[SA Chris]

John Watson (him wot wrote Stone Country), has started putting info on developments in Scotland here (for anyone interested). Our developments at Muchalls from last summer get a mention.

http://www.stonecountry.blogspot.com/

[Palomides]

Chris, is this you?



I dunno, I thought you'd be errr.......  taller.

[Fiend]

I can confirm that Chris is 18'2" and I've heard that that so called V2 is actually multi-pitch for most climbers...

[SA Chris]

Chris, is this you?

I dunno, I thought you'd be errr.......  taller.

Yup, that's me.

Try to understand that the photo is not life size. I am 6 ft 2" or so, not sure if you were expecting Kareem Abdul Jabaar or something.

I've had enough people off this site complain about me being too tall in the past.

[SA Chris]

http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2006/02/new-portlethen-testpieces.html

Updates. Anyone know who this "Luke" bloke is?

[Falling Down]

Nope...  but why are you wearing Larry Grayson style glasses holders  

[SA Chris]

Arf Arf. As I had no intention of doing any DWS that day I wasn't wearing contact lenses so had to wear glasses. The only thing available to prevent them from ending up in the sea was a shoelace from my approach shoes, so needs must, as a plund would have cost me (another) £50 or so for glasses.

Such is the life of a specco like me. The subject of ridicule from his mates.

[Falling Down]

I'm a speccy too.... :

[Nibile]

me too.
you cant imagine how ridicule i am on pr0n movies sets... :D

[dom]

http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2006/02/new-portlethen-testpieces.html

Updates. Anyone know who this "Luke" bloke is?

think he may be at aberdeen uni, i've climbed with chris at portlethen before, he's ex abdn uni.

looks like some nice problems

[Fingers of Jelly]

I know Luke cos I was there in the photo!!  (The 'fat one' in the blue T-Shirt!)   :shock:

They're all great problems, anyone in the Aberdeen area should check them out!

Luke is indeed a Uni Student.  Expect some amazing things from this guy, he's only been climbing a year!!  Not only does he have some stupidly strong fingers and bags of natural talent, but he's a totally decent guy as well!   :

No I'm not his agent!!

How goes it Dom?  Tony tells me your getting some serious climbing in?! Good on ya mate!  :D

P.S. I've seen Chris in the shop and he was more like 20' 3"!!

[SA Chris]

How tall does that make Stuart S then?

Looks like I am going to have to build barbed wire fences around my projects now.

[Fiend]

34' give or take a few inches.

Still at least none of you are Kiwi Seb...

[SA Chris]

http://www.stonecountry.blogspot.com/

Nice effort Tim. Looks like it was a productive few days across the country. He certainly keep plugging away at the place.

[SA Chris]

blog has been updated, now with "classic" scottish problems. That crack looks gnarly.

Some good articles in the link to Dave Mac's site.

[R.J.]

My parents have just moved to the Isle of Skye and I've just been up there with my brother to Carn Liath mentioned in the most recent stone copuntry blog entry. 

That place is AWESOME.

There are literally thousands of boulders there and hardly any have been developed.  We found 3-star line after 3-star line and simply didn't have time to clean stuff up.  There's potential for some seriously hard stuff too.  Granted, it's probably as difficult to get to as Font is for most climbers located outside Scotland but I'd recommend a trip there if the forecast is good.

Check the first 3 snaps in my flickr account:  http://www.flickr.com/photos/robingjones/

[Greg C]

Those problems look first class, nice one cleaning them up. Great settings.

Its a shame that a certain screwball has tarnished the perception of Skye bouldering, as it looks truly excellent!

[sharkey]

Looks very enticing, how much has been done, and what type of rock please, i can feel an Autumn trip coming on.

[Pantontino]

I've just recieved a review copy of Gabbrofest - essentially a bouldering map for the gabbro boulders in Coire Lagan produced by James Sutton. It's a very nice production, and you can read all about it here:

http://www.betaguides.com/

and here:

http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2006/07/gabbrofest-out-now.html

[tc]

Does it include those mythical V15s or is it more of a real world guide?

[R.J.]

Word.

Can't take credit for that Mr Ben problem- someone else had cleaned that up already.  Giant Haystacks is one of ours though.

As for type of rock- I'm not sure what the actual name of the rock type is.  I'd liken it to a much less vicious version of gabbro- still grippy but not as likely to cheese-grate you down to bone if you slip.  Pantsoff, what's the rock at Caseg Fraith? - It's very much like that stuff.

As for how much has been done- well, we've barely touched the tip of the iceberg.  Many of those boulders you see in the panoramic shot have deep bases out of shot.  Most boulders have 2-3 usable sides with several potential lines.  There is potential for loads of cave routes with proper top-outs.  Highballs a plenty, slabs, crimpy problems, sloping problems, the list goes on.  The field extends behind me from where that shot was taken, up to and around the sheep-dip boulder mentioned in the SC blog. There's also a further extension out of shot to the right and a ridge strewn with boulders (some awesome potential there) dividing the two areas.  You could spend weeks and weeks finding high quality lines of all grades and probably months to years putting up two-star problems.

A word of warning though:  the rock is essentially untouched so holds have been subject to freeze-thaw (big up da GCSE geography massive) for millenia and can come away in your hands (not good on a highball).  Landings are very much Porth Ysgo-esque with potential for damaged ankles or dissapearing down a hole.  So big mats and spotters are a good idea.  The walk in is about 45mins but not too strenuous.  The biggest draw-back is the midges- if there's no wind, you'll be eaten alive.  Take a head net thing and repellant.  Still, I've had the same experience in the pass on some sumer eves so I wouldn't let this put you off.

I'm gutted I can't go back there for a year.  Try to get a GPS point for each problem you clean up and do as it will be the only way of mapping stuff in such a densely packed area.  As for those V15s etc, don't know but even locals seem to think it's all bollocks so I'd just ignore it- it's all a bit played out now anyway, lets get on with some proper developnment- it would be a shame if the climbing on skye was tarred by one person's poor reputation.

Hope this is of some help,

Cheers,

rob

[SA Chris]

http://www.stonecountry.blogspot.com/

Joh Watson is obviously a man of impeccable taste.
 

[SA Chris]

http://www.stonecountry.blogspot.com/

Rare sighting of the SoC almost climbing on video.

[unclesomebody]

That has made my day. V15 downgraded to V4. 

[dobbin]

I think we should go Unc, then we can be 8b climbers too. I reckon I could even flash v4! 8b flashes! perhaps people will give me free shit then.

[dobbin]

and indeed here is a comment from the big yin himsel :

Over on the Atlantic Bridge cave John managed a new sequence which thouroughly changed the way I had climbed it originally. New holds were discovered by both of us - a huge jug midway & a good finishing edge included. The problem is still destined to be 3 star classic either way, but the sequence John used allowed him to get both feet on the back wall, a move far to compressed & illogical for my frame, & thus give him an instant & stable, 180° twist, cutting out the 360° later. From here he could get directly onto a big jug midway in the roof, whereas I would have to strike out desperately for a sloper system in a footless lay down start, desperado style. Becuase of the new body position John was then able to utilize a large positive rail out below my direct variation, beyond the new jug which alters the line into ape like swinging & healthy slaps rather than crimper gnarling. The 5 extra holds & sinker ledge have a radical effect, giving an almost new sequence from the same start. It's funny how a problem can be altered, by height & wingspan factors, but not entirely controversial. There are probably even 2 further sequences at least for this line - becuase that's just the nature of it. In that way, it's unlike others I've climbed that don't allow so many variations by their own nature. You'd know this if you stood in front of any of them & tried - then in front of this cave. These things happen, like Brad Pitt getting V13 originally. We all know it's V9 but who would deny the quality whatever happens to the numbers - I fucked up in a way, but I also didn't, we both climbed genuinely different sequences, John being able to squeeze into gaps that would have my leggy frame tangled, but there's a lesson here - All we need now is for a dwarf to have a go & basketball player for a genuine consensus! The sad thing is, I'm betting the downgrade without the reasons, will get more conjectured coverage whereas the initial climb was pretty much ignored - & that's the worry I have about todays climbing agenda - People seem fired up to retort endlessly about a downfall , but find it hardest of all to celebrate a success - I bet they'll all have expert views on a climb they acknowledged with a murmour initially - Now that's irony - I thought I'd add that before the forum wailers go into overdrive & start spewing & calling every other line into question by some weird invented head link.

http://-v15-.blogspot.com/search?q=atlantic&x=49&y=7

[Bonjoy]

Funnily enough the pics of AB on Si's 8a.nu gallery, UKC gallery and the photo sequence (surely this would vindicate this new sequence bollox) on his blog have all been deleted. Although google still has the image cached from the 8a.nu gallery
Hmmm looks remarkably similar to the vid sequence to me

The original writeup has also been lifted, however he did forgot to get rid of this:

16.11.05: The new photo series of Atlantic Bridge v14 way will be up tomorrow sometime, showing the whole sequence from the deep gnarly sitter to the arete finish. Complete with woolly hat, just in time for the rock report, which bizzarly I seem to have been craftily manipulated into pen-ghosting for Mick as he's somewhere over the Atlantic gathering jet lag on his way to the UK...err aight then...feckin Rockfax staff & their executive lifefstyles aye...

And there's the UKC news item

On Lewis Si O'conor reports a lay down start to Atlantic Bridge at a proposed V13 (around Font 8b) and an even bigger number on the Isle of Skye, he has reported V15 (around Font 8c) for Eat Yerself Whole. You can read more at Si's blog. Si is also currently making a film about the bouldering on Lewis.

Descriptions on Scottishclimbs.com

atlantic bridge from the origanlly tried start 4 yrs ago. Finn spotted. atlantic bridge can be climbed from 2 starts. 1] crouch at the edge of the roof - v9. 2] sloper crack under roof -v11. the cave sitter goes from nicks right at the back & courses each start in one go, extending the line & making a super intense link. nb: this was the original idea & makes more sense...its just hard to do..

Atlantic Bridge   Font 7c+   4   2   00-06-2003   Si O'Conor
Visible as a dark hole beyond the freestanding "prow" on Skigersta beach. Jam & share deep under the roof, then long reaches on very fingery edges to slopers on a short arete [obvious & to the left] & pull through on this. Harder for dwarfs.

[dobbin]

which explains why I couldnt find anything when I looked. Good detective work Bonnos.

[Bonjoy]

If you look at this and the image of John Watson on the video page, they are in fact in exactly the same position.

[dobbin]

damn you. I was only waiting for photoshop to install. I started trying it in mspaint and got my knickers in a twist.

[Fiend]

and indeed here is a comment from the big yin himsel :

Over on the Atlantic Bridge cave John managed a new sequence which thouroughly changed the way I had climbed it originally. New holds were discovered by both of us - a huge jug midway & a good finishing edge included. The problem is still destined to be 3 star classic either way, but the sequence John used allowed him to get both feet on the back wall, a move far to compressed & illogical for my frame, & thus give him an instant & stable, 180° twist, cutting out the 360° later. From here he could get directly onto a big jug midway in the roof, whereas I would have to strike out desperately for a sloper system in a footless lay down start, desperado style. Becuase of the new body position John was then able to utilize a large positive rail out below my direct variation, beyond the new jug which alters the line into ape like swinging & healthy slaps rather than crimper gnarling. The 5 extra holds & sinker ledge have a radical effect, giving an almost new sequence from the same start. It's funny how a problem can be altered, by height & wingspan factors, but not entirely controversial. There are probably even 2 further sequences at least for this line - becuase that's just the nature of it. In that way, it's unlike others I've climbed that don't allow so many variations by their own nature. You'd know this if you stood in front of any of them & tried - then in front of this cave. These things happen, like Brad Pitt getting V13 originally. We all know it's V9 but who would deny the quality whatever happens to the numbers - I fucked up in a way, but I also didn't, we both climbed genuinely different sequences, John being able to squeeze into gaps that would have my leggy frame tangled, but there's a lesson here - All we need now is for a dwarf to have a go & basketball player for a genuine consensus! The sad thing is, I'm betting the downgrade without the reasons, will get more conjectured coverage whereas the initial climb was pretty much ignored - & that's the worry I have about todays climbing agenda - People seem fired up to retort endlessly about a downfall , but find it hardest of all to celebrate a success - I bet they'll all have expert views on a climb they acknowledged with a murmour initially - Now that's irony - I thought I'd add that before the forum wailers go into overdrive & start spewing & calling every other line into question by some weird invented head link.

http://-v15-.blogspot.com/search?q=atlantic&x=49&y=7

He is such a cock.

Will this finally see the era of Si O'Bullshit ending?? 

[fatboySlimfast]

like Brad Pitt getting V13 originally. We all know it's V9 but

eeerrr, yeah right

[dobbin]

Ok, so not as polished as Jon's but this is my first stab at this gif animating thing, so bear with me.

[Bonjoy]

Seamless craftsmanship Mr stunthorse

[soapy]

i can attest to the quality and potential at carn liath, we visited first week in june this year

the 45 min walk in is just perfect, leaving one in a secluded corrie with fine views away to the north

the trad climbs were excellent too, though care needs to be exercised with the weathered rock, as noted previously

[unclesomebody]

bonjoy,  you are indeed one of my hero's. Your detective work is second to none and I have great admiration for you! Ever since you noticed that recurrence pattern in the pebbles in one of Si's shots... ha ha ha...

 

[Johnny Brown]

I'm not interested in the grade to be honest, but i am beginning to have doubts regarding Si 'O's quality assessments. That looks shit.

[SA Chris]

i can attest to the quality and potential at carn liath, we visited first week in june this year

Wanted to check it out weekend before last, but it was pissing down. Tried to climb in Coire Laggan the next day, guess what the weather did?

[Bubba]

Well, if you will live in one of the rainiest places in Europe...

[soapy]

another extract from stonecountry - gabbrofest article

I noted the inclusion of Si O'Conor's 'hard' problems with interest, having had my own share of frustration in trying to give Si the benefit of the doubt when it comes to cutting-edge problems. There is no doubt these lines exist as 'lines' and have been located by James, though Si still has to take responsibility for his claims and provide some core evidence of actually linking and climbing them. They are insanely blank propositions even to an experienced eye and to date Si has smoke-screened everyone who has tried to climb with him or film him on these problems... the author's own photographs are not enough to suggest full ascents. I guess James and Lee have shown a similar philosophy of generosity (describing Extradition, It's Over and Paper Tiger etc). Future guides and literature will not be so generous, I fear.

*irish, sigh*

[SA Chris]

Well, if you will live in one of the rainiest places in Europe...

What the Lake District? Aberdeen is pretty dry, apart from when the haar comes in. Think the weather has been better up here recently than daahn saath.

[Bubba]

I'm still traumatised from living in Glasgow for two years - definitely the most depressing weather I've ever seen. I thought it rained a lot in Sheffield, but Glasgow takes the piss.

[SA Chris]

, but Glasgow takes the piss.

If you pardon the pun, in more than one sense.

[squeek]

New holds were discovered by both of us - a huge jug midway

You'd think if you spent a bit of time working on a V14 you might, just might, notice a huge jug midway that you hadn't used.

[webbo]

i heard a story from a mate at the wall who's working with john watson on his guides.that super si had claimed the first ascent of a new e8 which turned out to be an existing e3.

[SA Chris]

http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/search?updated-min=2007-01-01T00%3A00%3A00Z&updated-max=2008-01-01T00%3A00%3A00Z&max-results=3

Stone Country update, if anyone is vaguely interested.

[Fiend]

I am more interested in -v15-.blogspot.com updates 

[SA Chris]

 

Why is SoC all that some people can think about as soon as Scotland gets mentioned?

[gr]

because he is entertaining:
"Needless to say climbing here is...beyond serious. Payback will be in my own fashion for a few, riding down the volcanic wild plume & wrought in full. I've survived it before & I will again, between a chasm of one E8,7b, an E7 & four E6's - all stilled & unfailing, within forged anvils of time, they remain redhot - & coldly unrepeated while galleons of huddled climbers tell tales of bravery on 5mtr E10s, in wine bars & how they once got dirt on their down jacket at Stanage...each to their own I guess."

[richieb]

Im interested Chris! Especially in the prospect of an update to the guide.

[Fiend]

because he is entertaining:
"Needless to say climbing here is...beyond serious. Payback will be in my own fashion for a few, riding down the volcanic wild plume & wrought in full. I've survived it before & I will again, between a chasm of one E8,7b, an E7 & four E6's - all stilled & unfailing, within forged anvils of time, they remain redhot - & coldly unrepeated while galleons of huddled climbers tell tales of bravery on 5mtr E10s, in wine bars & how they once got dirt on their down jacket at Stanage...each to their own I guess."

*SNORT* Exactly. A masterpiece. Still, it was more entertaining when his credibility was merely in question...