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Peak Conditions (Read 14818 times)

bigphil

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#25 Peak Conditions
February 05, 2006, 12:37:09 pm
Burb North was piss wet through so went for a wander with Obi-wan up to Bamford, which was also piss wet through.  Found some intersting looking stuff just past The Crease which looked like it would be good when its dry, and there was an overhanging rippled wall with a few rugosities and chicken heads that looked kinda funky up and left from The Salmon.  Anyone know if these have been done/named/graded.  There was also a hard looking arete.

Bonjoy

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#26 Peak Conditions
February 05, 2006, 12:41:18 pm
Quote from: "bigphil"
 Found some intersting looking stuff just past The Crease which looked like it would be good when its dry, and there was an overhanging rippled wall with a few rugosities and chicken heads that looked kinda funky up and left from The Salmon.  Anyone know if these have been done/named/graded.  There was also a hard looking arete.

This thread should answer your question: http://ukbouldering.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=4106&start=0
 Also see the new Burbage guide which has some of the Bamford bouldering in.

bigphil

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#27 Peak Conditions
February 05, 2006, 12:51:50 pm
Cheers Bonjoy.  I haven't got the new guide yet so haven't seen whats covered but that thread just about covers everything we were looking at yesterday.  Shame it was mainly wet.

Ru

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#28 Peak Conditions
February 05, 2006, 12:55:15 pm
Quote from: "dave"
what the fuck were we doing at caley?


You were at Caley on Sat? WE were at Caley. Actually we only turned up at three ish after going to Crookrise first which was piss wet through. I'm beginning to think that I'll never get to that crag dry.

dave

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#29 Peak Conditions
February 05, 2006, 05:30:41 pm
Quote from: "Ru"
Quote from: "dave"
what the fuck were we doing at caley?


You were at Caley on Sat? WE were at Caley. Actually we only turned up at three ish after going to Crookrise first which was piss wet through. I'm beginning to think that I'll never get to that crag dry.


aye, were at caley from 11ish till dark. abortivley warmed up near blockbusta, sacked it to the crag area for rest of the day but stopped breifly back at the "V8 groove" thing on way back to stile. you'd think we'd have bumped into you. did you not bump into katz either then?

Jim

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#30 Peak Conditions
February 05, 2006, 07:27:30 pm
back to banford for a short while. I've never been, drove past loads and it looks ok ish for an afternoons bouldering. Is it worthwile? remembering that I don't do routes

a dense loner

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#31 Peak Conditions
February 05, 2006, 07:33:53 pm
are you the new andi_e?

bigphil

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#32 Peak Conditions
February 05, 2006, 07:41:11 pm
Bamford is great, good location and some interesting problems and short(ish) routes that could be highballed.  But a good long day could see it pretty much all ticked.  Quite a few of them have shite landings too.

Fiend

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#33 Peak Conditions
February 05, 2006, 07:49:52 pm
There's an overhanging arete next to Wrong Hand Route that looked really nice, I would be tempted to go for that alone. Oh yeah and there's some highball-ish aretes and prows to the right, near Jasmine too, they definitely look good.

Plus some of the easier routes are pretty nice to solo e.g. Gargoyle Flake, The Crease, that sort of thing.

And it's exposed, and pretty quiet.

saltbeef

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#34 Peak Conditions
February 05, 2006, 08:16:56 pm
but obviously it's in fuckin england so even if its alright in sheffield it'll be fucking raining in the peak...

a dense loner

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#35 Peak Conditions
February 06, 2006, 09:37:25 am
did you end up at rubicon?

Ru

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#36 Peak Conditions
February 06, 2006, 10:37:42 am
Quote from: "dave"
we'd have bumped into you. did you not bump into katz either then?


No didn't bump into Katz either. We went to New Jerusalem to warm up, then up to those blocks left of Psycho and did Crystal Method, then wandered up to Block buster, decided I'd need beta to do Guacamole, went back down to the blocks left of pycho to try Dunning's new 8a sitter thing, then back to New Jerusalem.

(woz)

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#37 Peak Conditions
February 06, 2006, 08:28:00 pm
Whats the deal with crystal method? How far right do you go from the jug or is it pretty much straight up?

Guacamole: LH Positive crimp, RH Not so good crimp just right, Right heel on the far right of the ledge. Rock up for the tiny edge (RH obviously) and jump straight for the razor edge top with your left (N.B. not sure how height dependant this method is) also, the sit start only adds two moves to the original if you are tall/stretchy.

Ru

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#38 Peak Conditions
February 06, 2006, 09:08:40 pm
Crystal Method: from matching the jugs, I went left hand to the first grattonny crimp straight above the jug, right foot on high nubbin below the jugs, pulled up to the second gaston with my right hand (using the lower gaston as intermediate), left foot on jug, then stand up for the slopers on the top. So pretty much straight up from the jugs.

saltbeef

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#39 Peak Conditions
February 08, 2006, 09:17:40 am
has anyone been out/past the grit this morning. i've done my work, teaching is cancelled until 2 and i might nip out in a bit. any isdeas if the crag may be dry?

Johnny Brown

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#40 Peak Conditions
February 08, 2006, 09:27:29 am
There isn't a cloud in the sky and a good nor-westerly blowing. You do the math, this is one kinder egg I'm not going to assemble.

saltbeef

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#41 Peak Conditions
February 08, 2006, 09:40:58 am
I'm shit at maths.

Johnny Brown

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#42 Peak Conditions
February 08, 2006, 09:52:41 am
despite all that time at school. i always thought it was no use for the real world.

andy_e

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#43 Peak Conditions
February 08, 2006, 10:56:09 am
Do you mean quadratic equations never come in useful? Surprise surprise...

saltbeef

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#44 Peak Conditions
February 08, 2006, 11:21:25 am
however some competency at sums would help with these clinical chemistry questions. fuck it peak here i come...

Bonjoy

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#45 Peak Conditions
February 08, 2006, 11:29:00 am
Quote
fuck it peak here i come...

Is that near Moffat peak?

fatboySlimfast

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#46 Peak Conditions
February 08, 2006, 05:11:41 pm
It were minty fresh out at stanage where a varied selection of ukb regulars were seen lurking. Saltbeef, Johnny Brown, Percy B and the likes of the black pearl trying the ace, vickers  swearing at Deliverance and Bonjoys good lady swearing at the green..........................
myself i just rolled around on the only bit of turf under the Buisness boulder pretending to do Zippys......

Falling Down

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#47 Peak Conditions
February 08, 2006, 05:24:52 pm
Anyone out tomorrow or Friday??  I'm working from home this week and could do with getting out...

Johnny Brown

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#48 Peak Conditions
February 08, 2006, 06:11:55 pm
I'll be all over the peak like a jimmy hat if it stays as good as today.

Best conditions for a while, after all that rain washed Fiend's Fucking White Mess off everything. Pleasantly warm in the sun with the wind keeping the rock cool, got one minor nemesis out the way.

cowboyhat

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#49 Peak Conditions
February 08, 2006, 07:29:22 pm
You did Careless then...?

 

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