[chappers]

...who's going?

we leave tomoz morning :D

also...is there owt else to do at elephant apart from le coeur? more qualiteee 7s and 6s?

[Bonjoy]

also...is there owt else to do at elephant apart from le coeur? more qualiteee 7s and 6s?

Le Grand Toit - 6c+/7a Totally amazing big roof problem on a massive sculpted juggy tufa thing. Must be the best roof problem around this grade in the forest, by a long way.  http://bleau.info/elephant/9200.html

Envie D'Ailes - 7c Great crimpy slappy wall problem.

Dalle a Poly - 5+ Huge wall full of jugs. A must do of the forest!!

[sharkey]

Bon joy where is the Grand toit exactly? pretty please.

[Bonjoy]

Elephant Ouest

Find the Dalle a Poly (not to hard, it's behind you if you are up near Le Coeur), follow the trck leading right (if facing DaP), keep following this track, after a short while it bears left upslope (don't take the earlier left turns), after passing a couple of highballs on the right you'll find it up and right of the path.

[tommytwotone]

How about lepreux direct (i think that's right) - on a block on its own on the left hand side if you walk in past the elephant on your right...done the indirect version at 6a, it was flava - think the direct gets sept a.

[chappers]

thanks jonboy. that confirms it all of those probs now on the list (oh dear its getting quite long and only 5 days to do it in. piss)

[Scouse D]

How about lepreux direct (i think that's right) - on a block on its own on the left hand side if you walk in past the elephant on your right...done the indirect version at 6a, it was flava - think the direct gets sept a.

Right good problem this but think its been chipped recently, don't know if it's fucked or what.

[chappers]

and oh yeah, best place to park for Cuisinière, on the road, or down that track that opens out to where that wooden model of the gorge is??
and would anyone recomend that seven up the left hand arete of karma bloc?

[Scouse D]

and oh yeah, best place to park for Cuisinière ....down that track that opens out to where that wooden model of the gorge is???

yes cos its closer, by a long way

and would anyone recomend that seven up the left hand arete of karma bloc?

No cos its rubbish

[Bonjoy]

and would anyone recomend that seven up the left hand arete of karma bloc?

Bizzarre Bizzarre. Not really, it's eliminate and not that great. The nearby Pensees Cache, soft 7b, is a much better bet if you're looking for a nice overhanging arete at Cuisinere.

[chappers]

thanks again lads.
was just a bit worried about coming back the car and it being up on bricks with no sterio (got robbed by some pikeys in font before :cry: )

ill give that arete a miss then, just gave it a glance last time i was there.

[fatboySlimfast]

if its dry !!!! keep going up the hill at cuisinere to find le magnafique and a few absolute gems around this area, all in the 7and 8's guide! Quiet and magnificent rock!

[chappers]

it WILL be dry.

[BD]

le lepreux direct (7a) is not chipped that i know off. did it this weekend and i couldn't see any chipped holds. nice slopers btw, i just love em. the highest route on dalle de poly (the one on the pic) is only 4 and not even a hard one, but really a must do. the 5 is a bit too the right. there's also a 6b traverse frtl and a 6c traverse fltr.
anyway, i met some english folks there last sunday, any change they're on this site? we tried le coeur and lepreux direct together and his name was rich. they were there with 7 guys and staying in a gite for a week.

BD

[Scouse D]

le lepreux direct (7a) is not chipped that i know off. did it this weekend and i couldn't see any chipped holds. nice slopers btw, i just love em.

Sure that the undercut had been chipped off but it's obviously still possible then.

[Blunk]

oh dear its getting quite long and only 5 days to do it in. piss

I'm having the same issue, and the problems on the list are almost all too hard. Why do I feel so compelled to attempt insanely difficult things at Font? Especially when:
1. I had to take 3 months off to heal a sprained wrist
2. It will be too damn hot in May
3. I am a weak old git

I keep telling myself forget the high numbers, just have fun!

It'll probably rain anyway... :roll:

[chappers]

perfect all week, maybe a touch too hot.
gave all the hard stuff a go and decided to come back stronger next time.
just climbed and climbed and climbed non stop for 5 days, loved it, good thing about font, everything feels classic, no matter what the grade.

[a dense loner]

lepreux direct was chipped and undercut has eroded away. it used to be nice and now it's not, you just have to dirtily crimp the undercut or conversely stray in from the right for a much nicer but easier move

[Blunk]

We ARE expecting pics!