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Top Welsh Action (Read 1894 times)

fatboySlimfast

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Top Welsh Action
April 24, 2003, 10:08:02 am
was in't pass last night, all i can say is that if you wanna do sum bouldering thats still in condition then get over now. Its totally dry, most of the bogs are drying up and streams and the cons yesterday eve were great!!!!!
Fear of a slopey planet is top as well, as is king of drunks
however angelas take on Leo's groove, missing out the groove on the left and the right was heinous!!!

Pantontino

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#1 Top Welsh Action
April 24, 2003, 06:03:11 pm
It did rain this morning, but now the sun is shining again and I'm sure the good conditions will continue.

I was out the night before, and managed to repeat Nodder's killer problem Ultimate Retro Party at the back of the massive Lefthand boulder at the Cromlech. I reckon its V8. Has anybody else done it? (It follows the lip of the cave from a sd at the left end). Ray showed it to Tim Emmett last night and he was falling off the last move.

By Leo's Groove do you mean the Wavelength Groove?

fatboySlimfast

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#2 Top Welsh Action
April 25, 2003, 10:11:06 am
I presume so, that groovey thing from the right hand of the obvious ledge, Ang couldnt reach so she mantled on to the ledge then went strait up, eeekkk.
Was there at weekend as well si, sorry didnt phone but you sounded busy wit family stuff. Must get bak over soon and getsome insider knowledge.
Tried the wavelength that night and have to say it was grim, has that foothold always been that polished???You said someone had wirebrushed it, also did the witch which is class

Pantontino

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#3 Top Welsh Action
April 25, 2003, 12:20:03 pm
Wavelength is much harder now than when it was first done. When Leo originally did it as a stand up it was probably V7 (In fact this felt similar in standard to the original method for King of Drunks using the high thin sidepull). Subsequently the sit down became the standard method at V8.

I reckon now that the severe polishing of the 'fatherless' foothold (as it is known) renders it V8 for the stand up and V8+ for the sit down.

Or it could be harder...I haven't known anybody to actually succeed on it for a while.

Cheers, Simon.

 

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