[moose]

Oh yeah it goes up the right arete using LH hold on the face

Cheers, that'll be the one (V7 was my guess at a likely grade i.e just doable for me, but only in better conditions): start with LH in a slot, rock up onto the footledge, and keep on moving the RH up the arete via contortions to use a LH undercut in the centre.  Then presumably lay off the arete, smear up and go for the top (probably via a LH crimp high on the face).    I wonder if the other problems have been done too (LH arete and possibly even an areteless eliminate?!)..

[Stubbs]

Oh yeah it goes up the right arete using LH hold on the face

It helps to be tall enough to reach comfortably between the two aretes: I'm not and I think it's going to make it somewhat harder....

[Pantontino]

Good to see people making use of the incredibly dry conditions in the mountains at the moment. (Craig Ddu in the Pass has even dried out!)

I'll pass on your comments re the grade of the stand up to RSW to streaky and the lads. Nodder did mention to me the other day that he had in fact climbed the sitter ages ago.

As for Swamp Thing stand up - IIRC it can be climbed 2 different ways. One rocking out onto the slab, and one using a hold up left and staying on the prow all the way. Both the low start to this (V9/7c) and Louisville Lip (V10/7c+) are unrepeated to my knowledge.

Did you check out In your Honour whilst you were there?

[Andy B]

Cheers, that'll be the one (V7 was my guess at a likely grade i.e just doable for me, but only in better conditions): start with LH in a slot, rock up onto the footledge, and keep on moving the RH up the arete via contortions to use a LH undercut in the centre.  Then presumably lay off the arete, smear up and go for the top (probably via a LH crimp high on the face).    I wonder if the other problems have been done too (LH arete and possibly even an areteless eliminate?!)..

Oursequence on Saturday was (from sitting)

Hands on either side of lowledge, left up to pocket, rock onto ledge to reach up right arete, left hand to diagonal jug out left, left heel onto this, left hand up to crimp, right foot in pocket right hand up to crimp in groove, left to top jug. (although from sitting I didn't get the diagonal crimp well enough so went over the topto the crimp in the groove and had to do a horrible finger swap.)

Whoa, that all makes it sound alot more involved than it was really.

[BenF]

Did you check out In your Honour whilst you were there?

Yeah, I scoped that out a while back, thinking it was an awesome line but left it well alone since it was a) dirty as hell and b) the middle of summer and about 25 degrees (no really it was).

It's an amazing line and I am defo going to give it some time next time I'm that way, which should be pretty soon.  You're right about that left foot hold though, it's gonna get mingin' and shiny soon with traffic.  Hang on, what traffic?

Thanks for the info on Swamp Thing too, sounds a bit more feasible now with a rock onto the slab.  I might actually get started on it next visit.

And as for the grade of RSW stand up...  hard V4 if you ask me.  But the sitter certainly worth V7 if you ain't too tall (not that I'm moaning like because the stand up is likely easier for those with short legs).

[moose]

....left hand to diagonal jug out left, left heel onto this, left hand up to crimp...

Whoa, that all makes it sound alot more involved than it was really.

Epic recountings of 3ft of vertical movement: the true spirit of bouldering!  I see what I was missing though now (I was doing without the far LHS jugs - saving them for a separate LH arete problem)

[Scouse D]

Epic recountings of 3ft of vertical movement: the true spirit of bouldering!  I see what I was missing though now (I was doing without the far LHS jugs - saving them for a separate LH arete problem)

Classic yorkshire approach!

[moose]

also a tall man's guilt - I've a defensive tendancy to avoid using my full reach just in case I'm using "not cricket" holds (usually backfires - the amount of time I've wasted trying to climb sick-hard variations to the norm!)

[Jim]

re not my style top out.
there is a high left foot hold/smear out left a bit, half rock onto this then mantel direct if memory serves me correct. I fell off the top of this loads before I finally did it a few years ago. excellent problem. top out felt really easy last time I did it but it was definatley dry then

[(woz)]

Some lads said they'd done it recently at V7 (I guy called Dan, maybe Dan Warren). I didn't do it but it looked like it was good and it saw a couple more ascents on sat.

Yep, thats right. I think the sit start bumps it up to 7b/v8 though (I definatly found it hard!)
Its called Slapstick (F.A. Tom Peckitt) and is still a project direct up the wall.

Dan W

[andy_e]

(works with quicktime)

So it does... nice celebration!

[andy_e]

...Brownstones (yet again) where I did my first font 7a, Pigswill!

 :D  :D  :D  :D  :D

[bobby knut]

tuesday in horseshoe quarry in the sun/snow with my route loving mate and back on the grit for the first time in over a year at burbage the next day. spot on. :D  where did that sun come from??
buggered me shoulder though :x .denaby ings nature reserve yesterday for some soggy twitching  

[Johnny Brown]

What's to be twitched at denaby? Are the kites still at spofforth? Genius venue  

[bigphil]

talking of Kites, I've seen a few recently, in mid wales (of course) but also drifting above the main highstreet in Henley. Must have been looking for a boat to hire or something, or a smoked salmon sandwich...

On a different note, yesterday I went to Millstone and finally did, albeit a little sketchely at the top, Technical Master, in between small showers.  Can tick that one off the list now after 10 years. At last!

[bobby knut]

denaby? moorhens, shovellers, canadian geese and of course, the ubiquitous twokers in the town :wink:  nowt special apart from my own sensimilla. :twisted:

[Stubbs]

Resurrected for the bank hols weekend (isn't this May great!) What's everyone up to?

I'm heading up to the Lakes tonight to hit the Bowderstone tomorrow, Malham Sunday, then maybe somewhere more local like Caley monday.

hope everyone has a good one. 

[bigphil]

I will be getting plastered in Manchester tonight, making my slow sorry way back to sheffield tomorrow and then going to snowdon and the pass over the rest of the weekend.  Not back at work till thursday.  Woo.