[dobbin]

My sources tell me a crack team of Peak raiders will be (weather permitting) embarking on a mission to tick all the hard class problems in Wales this coming weekend... thing is, they are a bit thick, and could do with some advice re whats good and where to go. So, you have a day in Wales - you want to do some hard stuff, where would you go and what would you do. Got to be accessible in a day from sheffield...

(Of course had pantonintotnsointo got his finger out and published his book, I'd buy that and have done with it :wink:  :wink:  :wink: )

[Scouse D]

I'd start in the Pass, wander up to Wavelength to do King of Drunks V5, try Wavelength V8, then grooves to do the classic V4 Boysen's groove and the Witch V7/Witches Knickers V8.
I'd then go to Jerry's Roof and try that cos it's awesome. The Barrel is a classic venue- the Traverse is cool V8+, the minimum V6/7, and the Groove V8+ (which is desperate). Whilst in the Pass you might want to try the Sting if your crimping is good(V8ish).
After that -if you're not totally fucked go to Nant Gwynant where Chris Davies has but up some new problems below Clogwyn y Bustach, and also Elephantitus Cave where Chris and Nodder have established some new steep desperates, the Tusk V10, downset V12, and nodder's link into the tusk V11ish (see this months Climber for details), as well as Elephantitus itself V6 which is really good too.
After this lot you should be knackered.

[dobbin]

Thanks for that, that sounds like a cool day! however, at the moment it looks like Sunday is going to rain, I'll let the weather decide, Wales may yet avoid my fat arse getting dragged up its classics!

Does anyone know where Angel Bay is? fancy a look at the Manchester Dawgs. I like roofs you see...

[Bubba]

Does anyone know where Angel Bay is? fancy a look at the Manchester Dawgs. I like roofs you see...

Nearr Llandudno, but I'm unsure of the exact access details - anyone know?

[Scouse D]

It's the other side of the little orme in a place called penrhyn bay but I don't know how to direct you as I've only been there a few times. Manchester Dogs is in a grotty little hole in the ground and in my opinion don't look very pleasant- however it does look very hard.
If you like roof climbing then why not go to Parisellas and try some of the classics there?

[fatboySlimfast]

Word scouse d...thought manch dogs looked crap when i went(too hard for me so its shit anyway!)
been there twice and have been diffrent ways to get to it, all i can remember is heading for the other side of the little orme then getting lost in a retirment housing estate with net curtains twitching and much swearing bout crap directions from a local!!!!!!!!!!!!

[dave]

Yo Dobbin, Sheep Pen boulders in Ogwen are also cock-on and worth the walk up there. All the problems are good, particularly Kingdom Of Rain, Pinch and Gnasher. Jezzer's Problem looked good but hard. Most of stuff there is positive edgey snatching, so go flash some stuff if you are strong.

[chris]

dobbin, sorry i cant join the elite team on the wales trip, got to shoot off home. check out www.snowdoniatv.com. think thats the address, got some good films of porth ysgo and parisellas cave :cry:

[Rocketman Rob Smith]

Remember to wear your little shorts and waist coat for the photo shoot this weekend Chris. :wink:

[dobbin]

Erm, I'm confused and slightly peturbed by the last comment. I have been climbing with Chris and thankfully he never subjected me to the sight of his waistcoat and shorts.

Can you elaborate Rog?

[chris]

yeah will do jolly roger. i  was struggling to find an outfit then called your mum, she said you had loads of spare gear and i could borrow some, she lent me a really nice pink waistcoat and some black leather shorts with diamond studs that used to be yours......why did you need them?.... did you used to be a batty boy? :shock:  :shock:  :shock:

by the way i really hope you are who i think you are, or ive probably relly offended someone!!

[Pantontino]

Angel bay:

This tidal limestone bay situated on the Little Orme is home to a stack of classic problems throughout the grade range (V0-V11). The steep wave-smoothed rock is well featured with water worn scoops and pockets that are a joy to climb on. The pebble beach offers a safe landing in most conditions, but I advise you to take a pad regardless. It is not unusual for the pebble levels to shift by a metre in height after a storm. This may expose bare rock landings, or conversely make some sit down starts redundant. At high tide (particularly a spring high tide), the sea covers all of the problems twice a day (except perhaps WUS) and thus dampness can be a major problem. Indeed, if still/ humid conditions prevail, it may be wise to pick another venue. Conversely if you visit on a windy day, no doubt the rock will be dry. That said, a towel is always useful for drying the lower footholds.
Access: follow the sea front road in Llandudno Bay around the back of Little Orme (beneath Manor Crag) and down to a roundabout (Penrhyn Bay). Take the first left and turn left just after a garage into a housing estate. Turn either left or right (both roads lead to the same point). Park at the end of the road, taking care not to block any driveways. Walk up the steps and turn right and head along to a flat grassy area below an incline leading to the upper quarry.  It is possible to drop into the bay just beyond this point.

Have fun

cheers, Simon.

[dobbin]

Quality! Mr Panton I thank you!

Anyone know if theres an online copy of the tidetables for North Wales anywhere?

[Adam Lincoln]

Quality! Mr Panton I thank you!

Anyone know if theres an online copy of the tidetables for North Wales anywhere?

The tides section on http://www.climbers-club.co.uk has what you want. It may seem blank at first but click on relevant box for info

[dobbin]

Thankyou all for the quality information provided, due to adverse weather conditions we went to the Snore fearing being rained off after a long drive.

In conversation about what we would have done we realised that apart from some rudimentary knowledge of the Pass we'd have been completely clueless at finding anything.

So Mr Panton, when is your book out!

[dave]

What state was tha snor etc in this weekend?

[dobbin]

very good, very good indeed! T'brook was in best nic I can remember too...

[dave]

Might t'brook be wet now? there was a fuck load of rain down this morning. I bet the river is impeding on t'con anall. Bo.

[Pantontino]

Patience my friend is a virtue (that I must admit I don't seem to posess). The guide will be with you soon.

You should've come over, the Ormes were bone dry on Sat (and the tide was right out in the afternoon).

I worked all day on Sunday (til bloody midnight!) on the guide, but Katz and Nodder climbed at Clogwyn Y Bustach (2 V5s, a V7 a V8 and a new V8+/9 that Chris Davies did last week) - again, bone dry.

It's a pretty rare day when you can't find some dry rock in N Wales. This winter I've been to the wall only twice and I climb about 2-3 times a week.

Cheers, Simon.

[Scouse D]

Are there many boulders below Bustach Si? They all looked right dirty last summer-have there been some major cleaning scenes or something?

[Pantontino]

In my opinion there are only 2 that are worth climbing on: the Homage block and the awesome steep thing about 100m to the right in the woods.

The problems I mentioned are on these 2 boulders.

[dobbin]

You should've come over, the Ormes were bone dry on Sat (and the tide was right out in the afternoon).

It's a pretty rare day when you can't find some dry rock in N Wales. This winter I've been to the wall only twice and I climb about 2-3 times a week.

Cheers, Simon.

Gutted!  :cry:  Never mind, rest assured Wales' favourite gems are not safe from the visiting maulers! we'll be over before long!

[dobbin]

Finally I made it to Wales on the weekend, picked a beautiful day for it too, the sun was out and there was a light breeze. Started out at the Orme in Parisellas cave, got Rockattrocity down to 2 sections (should have finished it - Punter!), flailed on Lou Ferrino (bizarre) and marvelled at Trigger Cut (shame it starts in the middle of nowhere). Moved on to the pass at 6 and again reduced Jerry's roof to sections but lacked the zing to link it, saw Sheffield's most serious climber Diego who is recovering from a back injury and bought a mug from Pete's Eats (which apparently makes me a tourist), wowed the crowds in the pass with my lack of technique and tantalised the female teenage population of Llandudno with my good looks (Dave's car). A good day out old boy, I'll be back with power endurance.

Photos

[Bubba]

and tantalised the female teenage population of Llandudno

No way! Everyone in Llandudno is at least 70!

[dobbin]

70 or 12-14! no in betweens, you are either one or the other out there. We got wolf whistled at too. I was full of pride until Dave pointed out that they were young lads and they were whistling at his car (Civic Type R). Its great being driven abou in a flash motor.