[Johnny Brown]

I'd never bothered to try this as it was supposed to be desperate and morpho, now i hear stumps and punters alike are bailing up it. What's goin on? Are they not following the rules or has an easier way come to light?
 
Or perhaps first, what are the rules on this one? Are both blocks in for feet?

[a dense loner]

watched old cheese saunter up it. you keen this sun or mon? i can remember beta but won't tell

[Lostboy]

Its getting a lot of traffic at the moment, important foot hold is crumbling quite badly, probably could do with some TLC

[Jim]

better get bicycle repair man on it (bonjoy)
I'm also keen for this one (monday not sunday for me)

[Nigel]

Yeah I thought this when I heard that Si did it second go and 5c Mawson nailed it in three. I never even tried this even when I went to Rowtor all the time because the moves through the roof looked hideous. As it turns out people are just traversing the ledge then leaning into the stand up. Come on, that's not 7c+ (as the aforementioned freely admit). Although in a way its the most obvious sequence, the one through the roof being a bit eliminate.

Come on Percy what's the beta?!

P.S. Sorry for the lack of grammar I've still only got one hand. Although I did do a 6b mantle at Mum's Pet the other day. Kiss my face :kiss:

[a dense loner]

personal bests with one hand, nice work that man. might be on your floor tomorrow night going for the same first sentence :shock:

[ferret]

quality problem this :D
here is my sequence:
from break lh undercut in roof
foot cam rf in break
unlikely sloper rh
lh intemediate crack then slap to pinch on stand up
rh back down to undercut in roof to hold swing (key for me)
lf on and continue up standing version

dont understand previous post seemed the only way to climb it to me
bout 7c for shorties like myself

[Bonjoy]

Quality problem. I used the same beta as Si and Neil (and the Moon for that matter)and thought it didn't warrant 7c+. It doesn't use the block to the left if that's what you where refering to JB. I believe the beta we used involves the same holds as the original sequence so could hardly be considered as a soft option, just efficient use of available holds. The only holds you could feasible eliminate being the break, this would be contrived in the extreme and I doubt anyone has done this. I must say again what an excellent prob this is.
 With regards the foothold:

Noticed the crucial foothold on Domes at Rowtor was getting seriously fuct and was about to become an irrepairably sandy mess. In this case of hold degeneration there is a very defined black crust over extremely damp soft sandy rock, once the crust is gone the underlying rock literally falls off in chunks and undercuts the remaining crust. I did not think the Stoneseal would be sufficiantly tough to sort this one out so opted to try a diffrent approach. Basically I worked two part epoxy resin into the rock with a toothbrush. I also did a bit of the same to a couple of more typically eroded scoops on the 7b sitter just right of Raw Power.

Before! If left like this I doubt if the hold would have survived the season.

After. Not an invisible repair by any means but no uglier than before I reckon.

 Please have a look how these repairs are getting on next time you are their.
 What do youz think of this means of repairing? I consider it to be best saved for extreme cases, but probably very effective at restoring a protective crust, protecting existing crust and giving a friction finish much like the surrounding rock (because loose grains become well mixed in whilst working the resin with toothbrush).

 Hope you approve of this Percy, it would have been a crying shame to let such a fine problem become a victim of it's new found popularity.

[Johnny Brown]

Yeah your foothold post was what prompted me - good work.

Still doesn't resolve the grade problem - I have a vague memory of Gaz doin it and thinking it was hard. Hopefully Bishmop will spill the beans.

Having said that,  if there's a more obvious, less contrived problem that gives a good 7c then that's probably the one to do.

[Bonjoy]

I think the new wisdom is to go straight out to the split finger (from crossed hands in break) slope with right hand with right foot on obvious low footer, then get get pinch with left hand whilst using left foot heeltoe, then drop right hand into undercut and use right toe to release left heeltoe, then swing into the standup. Just using the holds in a different order makes it a bit easier. There is a really poor sloper in the roof which is always chalked, I can't imagine using this could do anything but make things harder.

[ferret]

good effort on the foothold repair bonjoy, like you say wud be a real shame if this problem was fuckd. apparently a sandy edge has appeared on sweet thing that cud make the problem possible again but wud need sum kind of sealing. hav a friend whos keen to do this but unsure of the best way, any advice appreciated.

[chris]

i looked at this a while back, and there is a definate hold...worse than the original, but the move would go if the hold were repaired. to what degree it would need repairing, in order for people to really pull down on it i dont know.
the holds fucked anyway and a cracking problem is now defunt due to chipping so repairing it is a good thing in my mind. get to it bonjoy

[Bonjoy]

I'll bring my bag of alchemy next time i'm over there. Apply a little voodoo maybe.

[SA Chris]

Dont mess with the Yakult.

[Doylo]

Yeah I thought this when I heard that Si did it second go and 5c Mawson nailed it in three.

5c mawson climbs hard 7c s in five minutes out here in swiss

[Johnny Brown]

Ok, did this today, same beta as ferret. 2nd go, felt similar to the other 7bs in the area like T-crack and blood falls. Couldn't really guess what the rules are for the 7c+ version, would seem highly contrived, though its worth noting neither can be called sit-starts.
Nice work on the foothold bonnos.

[blockhead]

Think 7b+ would be about right for me. Think it is a fair bit harder than blood falls or that 7b to left of dissolution. Top quality problem tho.

[ferret]

7b+ maybe right felt 7c for me but i can only just reach pinch from foot jam and reaching undercut with right nearly dislocates my shoulder

[old cheese]

i dunno, firstly there are insinuations about punterhood and then giving out your well thoughtout (and genius) beta leads to the masses ticking summat! and the grade falls! I am a punter afterall :cry:

[Jim]

agreed  :D

[Bonjoy]

Yeah, cheers for the beta Mr Cheese. Much appreciated.

apparently a sandy edge has appeared on sweet thing that cud make the problem possible again but wud need sum kind of sealing. hav a friend whos keen to do this but unsure of the best way, any advice appreciated.

 Had a look Satdy. Looks like someone has brushed/scraped an edge into the sandiness. It was too wet to do anywith at the time. It looks very sandy and might not be treatable until it has settled in a bit more. Will take another look on a dry day.

[Percy B]

Cheers for doing the repair, Bonjoy. Looks like a good job - sympathetically done, I believe the expression is!

Glad those who've tried it like the problem - one of the nicer hard problems at Rowtor (ie its not a mantle). I hope its new found popularity won't end up leaving it all battered and worn like some other problems in the vicinity.

As for the grade - I've no idea now, much as I never had any idea when I originally did it. I'm pretty sure I found some weird sequence which made it feel very hard on the first ascent, although the day I did it the second time I just wandered over at the end of a day out at Eagle Tor and pissed it first or second go. A bit of a funny one. You can either do it, or you can't. I remember when Ben did it, I think he said he had had a right tussle with it before dispatching it. Oh, and Mawson and Si doing it quick doesn't mean its easy - they are both strong as fuck!

Anyway, I thought I'd said I thought it was 7c when I did it. Maybe the fact that nobody repeated it for years lead to the idea it was 7c+? Anyway, whatever. At least its getting a bit of attention now and thats all that matters. Whats in a grade, after all.......

[dave]

had a go on this yesterday. i would imagine that its about 7b+. Seemed to me that you do all those roof moves and the crux move is still the crux of the standup, i.e. the on-off slap to the good hold on top, which is where i got to from the low start. is a decent problem.

[Johnny Brown]

That move is piss in isolation though, its hardly on-off. You are using the right-foot heel 'ting? On the sitter, just make sure you over cup the left-hand pinch to allow for a bit of slippage as you bring yo feet out.

Plus its easier for the tall. You only get 7b+ if under 5'7", ape index=0.

[mark]

That move is piss in isolation though, its hardly on-off. You are using the right-foot heel 'ting?

I'll bite. What's this right-foot heel 'ting?

[Johnny Brown]

For the top move you have the right heel on the big flake under the roof glued by JonBonJoyvi. Works better than a toe, left foot flags high out left.

[Bonjoy]

Toe of right foot is also pressed against feature, to make it a mediocre heel-toe lock.

[mark]

Thank you both, I'll try that next time I'm there. I presume there's the usual money-back guarantee on this beta?

[Bonjoy]

You can consider my penneth as due payment for your fine WSS beta

[dave]

just make sure you over cup the left-hand pinch to allow for a bit of slippage as you bring yo feet out.

yeah, maybe that good advice - by the time i was set up for the slap my left hand was wanking around on the pinch like trying to grab soap in the bath.