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Humpin' @ Curbar (Read 16807 times)

(woz)

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Humpin' @ Curbar
January 04, 2006, 06:35:06 pm
Dave Mason climbed a (possible) new problem at curbar today. It takes the overhanging arete of the gorilla warfare boulder from a sit start (LH pinch foothold of GW, RH sloping pinch), before slapping upwards to a crimp + then jugs. Its only really one hard move but is very good - much better than it looks.

Name: Humpin'
Grade: 7b+?


Pictures in my gallery @ http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/index.php?cat=10150

Edit: It doesn't use the juggy crack further round the arete at this grade.

monkey boy

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#1 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 04, 2006, 06:45:03 pm
Cheers for the photos and putting it up Dan looks good. Me and Dan both reckoned it probably has been climbed before but dont understand why it hasnt been claimed it is wicked line.
Its not in the guide so thought i would have it, you do hump the rock to so everyone go and enjoy its nice but not too hard, unfortunately, haha!!

David

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#2 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 04, 2006, 06:56:56 pm
Looks good. I'll certainly be giving it a try next time I'm there

(woz)

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#3 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 04, 2006, 07:09:20 pm
Hey dave, I just put some pics of eatswood in my gallery so you can see what its like - enjoy :wink:

unclesomebody

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#4 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 05, 2006, 09:01:50 am
If you are the David Mason on 8a.nu then you REALLY need to speak to someone who knows something about climbing. You really need to look at what the definition of onsight is. Your scorecard at first implies you are a very good climber, but then shows you rather foolish. Onsight a problem 2cnd go? Interesting that?!?!?!?!!

Just for the record, onsight means 1st go with no falls and no prior knowledge of the route. However, since you can see every hold on most boulder problems, the term is redundant, and to be honest you should be using a flash if you do it first go.

anyway, nice one on the "new" problem

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#5 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 05, 2006, 09:19:52 am
Wowser, chill Uncle, personal attacks are not allowed ;)

unclesomebody

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#6 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 05, 2006, 09:32:47 am
ok, i'm chilled. Angry at the fact my car has been broken into. It wasn't a personal attack, more a comment on onsight/flash knowledge etc. Just worded rather strongly.

 :8)

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#7 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 05, 2006, 09:34:09 am
It's ok fella, sorry about your car and hope you didn't lose anything valuable :(

Greg C

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#8 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 05, 2006, 09:40:12 am
Quote
If you are the David Mason on 8a.nu then you REALLY need to speak to someone who knows something about climbing. You really need to look at what the definition of onsight is. Your scorecard at first implies you are a very good climber, but then shows you rather foolish. Onsight a problem 2cnd go? Interesting that?!?!?!?!!

Just for the record, onsight means 1st go with no falls and no prior knowledge of the route. However, since you can see every hold on most boulder problems, the term is redundant, and to be honest you should be using a flash if you do it first go.


Calm down, calm down, [poor scouse acsent] Keithy boy!

You shouldn't get so bothered about 8a.nu, it truly is the biggest pile of shite on the internet. Oh I hope Bjorn doesn't  read this.  :D

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#9 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 05, 2006, 09:42:00 am
Good to see unclemullet standing up for ethics and honesty  :wink:


But, as Greg says, 8a.nu scorecards  :roll:  :roll:  :roll:


P.S. This looks like a pretty neat problem too.

a dense loner

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#10 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 05, 2006, 10:06:05 am
martin veale would have done this first, it's not been written up because it's wank and inconsequential. like coming straight through the roof on the easy boulder, this also has not been written up cos it's wank and inconsequential. ok they are ok probs but inconsequential anyway. for the record i have done them both, where's outside?

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#11 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 05, 2006, 10:08:18 am
Bet Jason got there first :lol:

a dense loner

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#12 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 05, 2006, 10:16:26 am
bet he can get to outside faster than me too, slipstreaming all the way. i know people now love to report stuff cos it's 2006, but i really think people need to take a second and wonder if anything that's not "hard" in a popular venue is really going to be a new prob

Bonjoy

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#13 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 05, 2006, 10:35:48 am
Quote from: "a dense loner"
but i really think people need to take a second and wonder if anything that's not "hard" in a popular venue is really going to be a new prob

 Come now he did say
 
Quote
Me and Dan both reckoned it probably has been climbed before but dont understand why it hasnt been claimed it is wicked line.

 I.e they did it, and enjoyed it and, considered it worth bringing to others attention. Fair enough. I'll try it next time i'm there, I might like it too.
 In my experience there have been lots of examples of good fairly easy lines in the middle of popular areas going un-noticed and unclimbed for years. People often only search off the beaten track for new stuff, falsely assuming everything has been done at the big venues before. For example Big Al Queada at RHS, blatantly obvious classic in the middle of one of THE most popular spots, relatively easy, not climbed until a couple of years back.

a dense loner

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#14 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 05, 2006, 10:46:27 am
i do understand what you're saying. however one persons good prob is not anothers, don't i know this.

unclesomebody

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#15 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 05, 2006, 11:02:52 am
ha ha... i'm behind lee, all the way...  :shock:

also, with regard to 8a.nu, if you're going to wave your willy, make sure you do it responsibly.

Bonjoy

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#16 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 05, 2006, 11:07:29 am
Angry young man agrees with angry old man   :wink:

monkey boy

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#17 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 05, 2006, 11:07:40 am
well this is the reason why new problems probably dont get put on sites like this because lots of people seem to get mardy about them.
sorry i always thought onsight meant the first time the crag was visited my mistake, not that important really. but my mate pointed it out to me this week. 8a is a good site to keep a record of what you have done not bothered about the ranking points.

on the subject of new lines this definately is not crap, i thought that at first but when climbed it is good. so everyone get a life and stop bitching on forums just go and climb and have fun. this is definately a problem worthy of bein in a guide.

Bonjoy

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#18 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 05, 2006, 11:15:05 am
Like Monkeyboy says, criticism of people claiming stuff leads to people being reluctant to pipe up about first ascents at all. This leads to confusion and annoying "done years ago" claims long after the event, which personally piss me off a lot more than the odd shit unworthy problem getting written up (no comment on the prob in question BTW, I have no experience of it). The history of bouldering is a right old mess because people have been too afraid of ridicule to report their (often classic)first ascents in the past.

(woz)

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#19 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 05, 2006, 11:23:50 am
The way i see it, the more problems I know about in my local areas, the more problems i have to try - which leads to me having more fun out bouldering and not getting bored. Shouldnt we encourage the development of our sport?

Bonjoy

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#20 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 05, 2006, 11:23:50 am
To add to what I said earlier though, if you do claim shit problems, you will look like a fool and it'll be your own fault. (That's a general point, not directed at (woz)/Monkeyboy particularly)
 I'm told some of my probs are a shit, but IMO enough have been good for me to look slightly better than a fool on balance.

SA Chris

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#21 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 05, 2006, 11:26:12 am
Quote from: "monkey boy"
i always thought onsight meant the first time the crag was visited my mistake, not that important really .


Well you amused me with that anyway.


Quote from: "monkey boy"
so everyone get a life and stop bitching on forums just go and climb and have fun.
.... rather than sit and post about your exploits on the net?

Has andi_e's reign ended?

a dense loner

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#22 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 05, 2006, 12:29:35 pm
Quote
monkey boy wrote:
so everyone get a life and stop bitching on forums just go and climb and have fun.


thanks for the advice i will try and get out more as soon as God decides to add an extra day to the week.

Quote
The way i see it, the more problems I know about in my local areas, the more problems i have to try


there are exactly the same amount of probs, you've just shown a guidebook mentality for which 8a."new" is perfect. whilst there being nothing wrong with this to some people other's find it offensive and wouldn't want "all" probs named and graded just so they can be the 57th "best" climber in the uk.

andy_e

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#23 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 05, 2006, 01:27:47 pm
Quote from: "SA Chris"
Has andi_e's reign ended?

Finally i can relax knowing that nobody will be bitching!

I use 8a.nu as a diary of evertyhing good that I do, be it classic 4cs right up to the hardest things I do (classics 5as), rather than waving my willy, because if i were to wave it, it would appear stupidly small.

Good effort with the problem, it seems like something I'd want to claim with that grade!

Bubba

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#24 Humpin' @ Curbar
January 05, 2006, 01:40:17 pm
Quote from: "andi_e"
rather than waving my willy, because if i were to wave it, it would appear stupidly small.

Never mind Andi, try here: http://www.enlargepenisguide.com/ ;)

 

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