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New problem at Earl Crag? (Read 2538 times)

Bullitt

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New problem at Earl Crag?
December 30, 2005, 06:09:24 pm
Eh up!

Went to Earl Crag Yesterday (29/12/05) and managed to climb the wall to the left of Underworld. This is down in YGB as a project (Page 213 – Under the Monument – Problem 8). There is also a picture of the block shown on the Yorkshire Grit website (link below)

 http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/photo.html?id=earl__topo_underpants-topo
 

I managed to climb it by a hand jam with my left hand and just holding the lower block with my right. Reaching up to the first crimp with my right hand then undercutting the block with my left so I could reach the higher crimp with my right. Then basically standing up and jumping for the break with my left hand (no arête used). It's about Font 7a but pretty reachy (or morpho!). I'll call it “Ape Index” if it hasn't been done before.

Just wondered if anyone had climbed this before or was a FA?

Cheers,

Bullitt

Jim

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#1 New problem at Earl Crag?
December 31, 2005, 03:33:55 am
must of been absolutely baltic at earl. looked at this before but dismissed it cos of the block, no idea if its been done before, sounds pretty good the way you describe it. what would be impressive is start in underworld (no block) and finish direct and left. its doable, there are things that may be described as holds!

Bullitt

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#2 New problem at Earl Crag?
December 31, 2005, 06:01:50 pm
T'was pretty cold at Earl!  Most of the stuff had snow on top with the exception of the underworld block, hence why I tried it.  It would def be a good effort without the block but unfortunately I eat too many pies and wouldn't be able to touch it!

squeek

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#3 New problem at Earl Crag?
January 01, 2006, 11:59:02 am
Although I don't know for definate, I'd be surprised if this hasn't been done before it's had chalk on all the holds including the top a few times that I've been there.

Gad

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#4 New problem at Earl Crag?
January 01, 2006, 01:50:05 pm
If this is the Bullit i think it is, then for reachy read; He's six foot three! :lol:
If not, then i am speaking crap!

Greg C

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#5 New problem at Earl Crag?
January 02, 2006, 08:58:27 pm
This was climbed a couple of years ago by Pete Hurley. I've never got round to trying it, but he did say it was pretty straight forward.

Bullitt

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#6 New problem at Earl Crag?
January 04, 2006, 01:52:17 pm
Quote from: "Greg C"
This was climbed a couple of years ago by Pete Hurley. I've never got round to trying it, but he did say it was pretty straight forward.


Fair enough, good knowledge!  Cheers for the info.

 

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