New roof prob at Cratcliffe (Read 7265 times)

Bonjoy · December 12, 2005, 09:24:52 am

Converted 7b+ - FA Neil Mawson - 11.12.05
Had looked at the roof up and right of Jerry's traverse a few times before but never had the requisite number of pads and spotters needed to give it a go. Basically its a big bulbous typical for the area roof problem, from scooped undercuts, out to a sloper, footlock in break, big reach to base of sloping ramp, up into big undercut with left, cutloose, foot up and wobble to top.
Managed to prize enough pads and crew from the bottom of Jerry's trav to make an attempt feasible. After heroic attempts, with differing approaches by allcomers it fell to a direct sequence from Neil. It's quite high but the hard bit is pretty safe with a couple of spotters and a minimum of 4 pads i'd say (the landing is bouldery). The fall from the crux was well tested, but a fall from the topout would be best avoided. The hard bit is pretty reachy, but there is a shorties sequence which people were looking close to getting. A quick repeat came from Mr Moon. Didn't manage to get any pics, but someone was taking some so maybe they'll read this and post up.

Rice Boy · December 12, 2005, 09:34:09 am

Good effort. Can't have too many highball roofs.

That's not on the Serpico block is it?

Bonjoy · December 12, 2005, 09:36:28 am

It is on the next block right (and set down a little) of Serpico, about 5m along, seperated by a short wall and corner.

Rice Boy · December 12, 2005, 10:02:43 am

Cheers, just thought as the fall from Serpico mantle (arse dragging hard) isn't so special it was through that roof.

c.j.d. · December 13, 2005, 10:48:50 am

Sorry guys - I think you'll find that lil' pocket rocket Mark 'Barry' Katz sent this beauty a few years back. I'm not sure of his email address but I will get hold of it and PM you as I'm 99% sure of this.

Bonjoy · December 13, 2005, 11:00:32 am

Are you sure? It would have to have been a big team day out. You really do need at the very least four pads and two spotters. We're talking E6ish without pads and spot. I'd also be very surprised if someone as wee as Mark could make the span with any sequence. The big undercuts under the roof (similar to the ones under T-crack), which would never get wet, had no trace of chalk either.
There is a roof to the left with a mildly dodgy landing, containing Serpico/Shunting Biscuit, which was claimed by everyman and his dog before the guide came out...

irish si · December 13, 2005, 04:35:22 pm

i would have to hear it from the man himself to believe that!!!! BIG SPAN!!!

Syked Tyler · December 13, 2005, 06:33:17 pm

yes, i took some pictures of the new line.
i will try and put them on once i figure out how to.

hey si, can you text me your email address please.
cheers matey.
ty

Syked Tyler · December 13, 2005, 06:42:20 pm

Syked Tyler · December 13, 2005, 06:45:12 pm

Pantontino · December 13, 2005, 10:06:30 pm

Just spoke to Katz. As I suspected he hasn't been on this problem at all. He did climb the Shunting Biscuit thing years ago, like various other people.

Syked Tyler · December 14, 2005, 09:51:08 am

Bonjoy · December 14, 2005, 03:26:28 pm

Those pic resized.

Bonjoy · December 19, 2005, 09:43:43 am

Converted saw more action this weekend and one ascent from Irish Si. Opinion is now leaning towards a grade of 7c.

Johnny Brown · December 19, 2005, 10:24:26 am

And there was me thinking Fletcher had emigrated....

unclesomebody · December 21, 2005, 02:24:54 pm

Today saw another bit of action on converted. James and I went up armed with 4 pads along with some light drizzle. I had a couple of goes to see what it was like and then James smoothly flashed it, making it all look rather simple. My next few goes were thwarted by rain. After a 20 minute rain break and some dedicated drying from James I also did it. Consensus on the grade is leaning toward 7B.

So, get to it. Don't need 4 pads either, you'll be fine with 3 pads and 1 spotter. It's a good addition to cratcliffe.

Bonjoy · December 21, 2005, 03:46:43 pm

So some of youz is saying 7c and others 7b. Having only watched and not given a proper go, I dare say it correlates to arm length. So the original 7b+ would seem the sensible answer? If you crazy kids want to climb it with one bear towel and a drunk hedgehog for a spotter....

Fiend · December 21, 2005, 04:24:25 pm

Surely the bear would eat the hedgehog and then you'd be fucked...

Bonjoy · December 21, 2005, 04:28:53 pm

It's a towel for bears, not made of bears stupid :roll:

Jim · December 22, 2005, 06:37:29 am

obviously a towl for me, not the gangly yoof's

irish si · December 22, 2005, 10:48:14 am

ha ha oh well,

morpho to fuck, sam and bransby were flailing quite impressivly. definitly at least 7b+ for moi.... maybe bungle has learned how to apply himself...scary...

Control freak · December 23, 2005, 01:44:45 am

Quote from: "Johnny Brown"

And there was me thinking Fletcher had emigrated....

I may have temporarily left the country - but Im still watching you...

Jim · December 23, 2005, 06:41:40 am

so that means your coming back then...

Control freak · December 23, 2005, 08:07:34 am

Dunno at the moment. not sure we'll stay here for good. After 3 years we can get a passport so we can come and go as we please.

Having said that - life here is pretty sweet. Its been 32 degrees today and its a ten minute walk to the beach. The climbings pretty shit hot too - in fact at this time of the year its very shit and hot. Roll on winter.

Will definitely be back for a few weeks next year though. Have a good christmas :D