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Le Toit cul de chien (Read 3212 times)

sharkey

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Le Toit cul de chien
December 21, 2005, 11:55:55 am
Having never actually seen this, is the pocket under the roof , a single or two finger pocket, and is this the crux going for the pocket on the lip ?.

dave

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#1 Le Toit cul de chien
December 21, 2005, 12:20:32 pm
the pocket in the roof is an old drilled peg hole. it takes one finger up to about 1.5 joint, and another finger stacked on top of it about half way. yes the crux is going for the lip - may advice is bring your left foot up into a heel toe in the back of the roof, to the right of your left hand. its tricky to get it in, but then you get your weight onto the heel-toe, pull up to get your chest into the roof and palm out with the left hand till you can reach the lip pocket. better than using the left foot heel hook where your hand is (where the peg is). brilliant problem.

sharkey

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#2 Le Toit cul de chien
December 21, 2005, 03:58:50 pm
Cheers Dave, just watched Font emotions, some good footage, getting really psyched now.

Jim

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#3 Le Toit cul de chien
December 22, 2005, 06:39:09 am
Agreed, brilliant problem.
Just rock up, there's normally 800 other people trying this problem with 50 mats underneath it so just watch them for da beyda

unclesomebody

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#4 Le Toit cul de chien
December 22, 2005, 08:40:03 am
note; heelhooking is the way of the weak.

Fiend

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#5 Le Toit cul de chien
December 22, 2005, 09:02:52 am
Quote from: "Jim"
there's normally 800 other people trying this problem with 50 mats underneath


 :x  :x  :?

Or two people with two mats one of which is about as good as a bear towel

a dense loner

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#6 Le Toit cul de chien
December 22, 2005, 04:32:09 pm
that must be one scary towel

Jim

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#7 Le Toit cul de chien
December 22, 2005, 04:52:25 pm
note:
heelhooking in the correct place is the way of the talented and supple climber

grimer

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#8 Le Toit cul de chien
December 22, 2005, 05:27:23 pm
I'd say good beta is to make sure your middle finger is well warmed up before you try to crank out the roof. It's bloody scary hanging off that waiting to hear the snap.

andy_e

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#9 Le Toit cul de chien
December 22, 2005, 06:40:48 pm
Quote from: "Fiend"
bear towel

have you been killing wild animals and using their skin for fashion accessories?

 

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