[Dna]

Hey, I was just wondering if anyone out there could help with some info. I've only ever seen various pictures of the joker and was wondering whether you go to the top with your right hand or left??? Any info would be gratefully appreciated. Thanks.

[dobbin]

been done both ways I think. Ru goes with the rh, malc with the left.

[dobbin]

generally the right.

[Johnny Brown]

Over-strong folk with no technique just campus the move footless, going with the right-hand. No need to put your boots on for this, either trainers or barefoot will suffice.

Those wishing to emulate the technique of the first ascensionist, or those with designs on doing the ace, wedge the left foot in the break and go over with the left hand. From what I've seen this is the easier sequence, though it confuses the wallboys as, being a crack, the foothold doesn't behave like a screw-on.

[Dna]

Thanks. I appreciate the beta. I figured you would go with your right but someone had told me that you go left and then right - kinda double dyno, campus style?!?!? Oh well. Thanks again.

[Nigel]

I don't know what the score is here, but when I was a lad you weren't allowed to start climbing unless you could recite the entire Hard Grit soundtrack flawlessly in under a minute, Koran style. Moffatt does The Joker on this video, I was under the impression (obviously mistaken) that it was illegal to have not watched it  :shock:

Check out Stick It for more the "refined" (more dynamic) version of the same method.

[Ru]

Can I just point out that I've not actually done it, so my beta is dubious at best. This year will be different though and I WILL do the Ace. I'll definitely try anyway.

[dobbin]

If you can double dyno and hold the jug I will give you £2. That would be seriously impressive. Any wannabe suitors should submit video evidence to claim their bounty!

Nige - rules have been relaxed. When I was coming through it was one summer bouldering in the peak. Sigh.

[andy_e]

has anyone done the "hamper's hang" mentioned in something or ohter- could be on peak rock... where you just hang the two holds footless? seems a bit bizarre.

[dobbin]

Hampers hang is a problem about 0.5 mile to the right of the Joker. It involves climbing a slopey triangular block in a left - right traverse fashion.

I have heard people claim that it is english 6c to hang the joker start holds, although I have no idea if that has a name in itself.

[Jim]

it is pretty hard as they tend to be amongst some of the greasyist holds going

[Bubba]

andi_e is right - hanging the Joker holds did used to be called "Hamper's Hang" no idea why the mix up with the traverse at Apparant North came about.

Hamper was a strong boy - one arm side-lever anyone?

[a dense loner]

english 6c for moves yes, but not for holding geometries

[Bonjoy]

I once held a tetrahedron, it was smooth as silk, but burned like fire.

[a dense loner]

hanging the Joker holds did used to be called "Hamper's Hang" no idea why the mix up with the traverse at Apparant North came about

jerry's traverse, anyone

[ned]

but not for holding geometries

without destabalizing them.

Bonjoy, effort holding the tetrahedron, never could manage one myself. :roll:

[saltbeef]

does your beta involve flicking your fingers a couple a times?

[Greg C]

Dense Wrote: english 6c for moves yes, but not for holding geometries

Obviously you haven't heard the Dawes' view on this issue, its very interesting   :wink:

[Moo]

I want to hear the Dawes view but I fear it may cause my mind to implode leaving me a quivering wreck for the rest of my days (as opposed to most of them now).