[runt]

spotting frenzy on crackhead


easychair


tatonka


cutting edge


the fuzz


cheers for the space jim

[dom]

nice photos, the top one's titanic right?  is the second one black mark or something like that.  How is that one, i never got on it but it looked a bit tricky for v4.

[runt]

cheers dom, yeah you're right that's titantic and black mark.
Black mark was nice, alright for a 4 and easier with a bit of a pop I reckon, although rob got the mother of flappers on it, were you out there this summer then?

[dom]

yea i was out there at the start of august, then again in september for better sending temps.  I ran into a group of boulderers from sheffield area but i don't think it was you (from the photos).  Cool photo of the cutting edge, definately have to get on that one next time.

[runt]

I moved on at the end of august, so prob just missed you, Did conditions get better through september? I know it pissed it down as I went north. You'll enjoy the cutting edge, top set of moves, check out sloppy poppy too if you didn't already, another quality 4. Keen to get back myself, have you seen some of the prices from Canadian affair? ridiculously cheap!!

[dom]

conditions were mint in september, sent sloppy poppy first go then, when i was sliding off the top slopers every go along with everyone else in august.  I'm heading back up there for most of june and july next year so should be good, hopefully get some routes up the chief in as well.  Canadian affair is well cheap, if only i had known about it last week, my mate book his flights over with fly zoom, still pretty cheap though.

[runt]

Good effort on SP, It was a bit of a sweat fest over summer eh. Sounds like you're psyched for the BC granite then, did you get over to the north walls, magic kingdom etc? Paradise valley is worth a look too if you haven't already, not to mention the mountain burger house!  I totally managed to miss it but heard there's loads of new routing and boulders round nanaimo, if you're going over to Vancouver island?

[dom]

cool, last time i was there we just stuck to the grand wall boulders.  I'll check out those places next time when we've got more time.  I think i might head up to the pemberton boulders as well, i've heard a lot of good stuff about them.

[AndyR]

 Runt - where's Paradise Valley?
Can attest to the goodness of the Pemberton boulders - well worth a visit if you're in the area.

[runt]

Struggling to remember exact directions, but head north out of squamish, I think it was the same left you take for chek, keep on that road, over one of those single lane DIY bridges till you get to an activity centre on the right. I think you can park at their place but we didn't just in case they got the hump. Used a layby on the right 50m up the road, then you walk back down the railway the way you've come (and get nervous about the amout of fresh bear turds), after about 1/2k cross over the rail line and there you are. You'll see that highball on the back of the guide in the first area. I'd have stood no chance finding it without the locals, worth asking the warden at the chief site, she had the way there wired.
sorry that's a bit vague, you been busy on the grand wall stuff?

[ding dong]

left off the 99 opposite the alice lakes turning, this is the squamish valley road, after a bit it forks, take the righthand - paradise valley road and follow this as runt says, past an activity centre, campsite place(very close) but dont park there,
continue a few hundred metres and take a lane that comes back on the other side of the railway to the trail head. continue beside the railway until you can enter the woods on the left,
the boulders are fairly close to the river/bog, and are in at least two main groups,  a pleasant spot, with some really good rock.

[ding dong]

just checking out your photos, 'the fuzz'! good little problem that, staying a bit cooler by the stream side.

[AndyR]

Thanks for those directions - another venue to hit.
Runt - I've had a spectacularly unproductive latter half of summer due to buying house, doing a bit of alpine stuff and dislocating my r-hand middle finger   

[runt]

just checking out your photos, 'the fuzz'! good little problem that, staying a bit cooler by the stream side.

Yeah a real nice little spot over there, did you have a crack at the problems to either side of it?

Andy- that had to smart, over indulging in mono wrongness? At least you now probably have a bit of snow to enjoy, or is it pissing it down still?

[AndyR]

Andy- that had to smart, over indulging in mono wrongness? At least you now probably have a bit of snow to enjoy, or is it pissing it down still?

If only - drunken wrestling resulting in dislocated fingers.....

Snow up at Whistler is starting to settle, but has been pretty damp here in Vancouver - 25 mm of rain in one hour here at the weekend - like standing under a waterfall!

[runt]

Hopefully in the Vancouver bikini mud league?
And I thought wales was damp, bet the north shore stuff is evil right now

[JohnM]

Hey Andy how's it going? Nice pics.  Did you get Tatonka done?  Awesome problem, the moves pulling into the hanging rib are a bit gut wrenching!  How did you get on in Squamish?  I loved it there but Rob said he didn't think much off it. What is the matter with that boy!?  Are you off to Font soon?  Rob said you might be moving to Sweden or something?

[AndyR]

Hopefully in the Vancouver bikini mud league?
And I thought wales was damp, bet the north shore stuff is evil right now

I wish - I've yet to stumble on the underground bikini mud-wrestling league.......

Rain is biblical right now

[runt]

Hi John, Yeah enjoyed squamish, did tatonka without any hernias, bonus, d'you get on gtv? nice. Rob was more psyched for the kayaking and the west coast really. Your spies are correct, we're off to font end of november, and then I'm off to Sweden, will post up some photos of all the projects, once the 3ft of snow melts off them!

[andyh]

after next week at the whistler snowfest i'm off to squamish.

seen various threads on here, so looking at staying at the squamish hostel - is anyone else out there and wants to share costs of a private room? or just lend me a bouldering mat?

cheers

btw - have spare space in room at the snowfest if anyones looking for somewhere to stay

[hongkongstuey]

time to bring this thread back to life - fly out to Vancouver on the 8th Sept to catch up with Agent Smith and Sparky and am in need of some Squamish recommendations to keep my occupied whilst they slave away in the office...

routes (E1-E3 range) and boulder problems (up to about V7)

[dave]

when I went the weather was warm and wet and we only had 1 pad, but still I can reccomend Viper at V5 is one fo the best V5s anywhere. theres loads of classic v4s to knock off quickly like easy chair etc, and I did a nice V7 called Mindbender, its on the same block that sharma V13 "proposal" thing off Rampage is.

If you can get over to the north walls area some of the stuff there looked like monster lines.

[Johnny Brown]

easy chair is wank. Other than that the bouldering is very good, I have no idea why they seem to promote the crappest problem.

[hongkongstuey]

have three pads from locals lined up (I hear the landings are a bit crap) and there's a couple of us from HK heading over so spotting should be sorted too

anyone got any route recommendations (other than Grand Wall)?

[dave]

easy chair is wank. Other than that the bouldering is very good, I have no idea why they seem to promote the crappest problem.

cos its one o' the first things you see and its got a flat landing probably. anyway i think its a perfectly good problem, stacks better than many so-called classics elsewhere (t-crack, le statique, magic wood etc...).

The only route we did was banana peel on the apron. its fantasic if you fancy a 7-pitch friction slab with pitches no harder than VS. its got a bolt at the crux so take a quickdraw.