[Greencar]

The Turningstone project is no more.  After far too many days effort, Keenus finaly climbed his roof project at about 10pm on friday night.









Effort

[dave]

word, whereabouts at turdingstone is this? and how hard? tell me its not hidden i the rhodedendrons.

[Fiend]

Isn't everything hidden in the rhodies there?

[Johnny Brown]

Awesome. Watched him trying it in the spring, and it looks mighty hard and better than most grit roofs.

C'mon, drop some numbers on us  :wink:

[Paz]

10 PM, what times it get dark up there?  Oh hang on that explains the head torch.  Photos aren't bad considering that.  Effort

P.S.  Isn't the song off the guiness advert Rhythm of Life?

[ned]

That looks good :shock:

Where abouts is Turningstone?

[Fiend]

Amber Valley. Head eastwards from Matlock as the crow flies until you encounter a mighty mass of inpenetrable rhodedendrons and then fall off the edge of a cliff. That will be turning stone edge  :wink:

[Jim]

yes it is in the rhodies. effort to keenus, this is fuckin hard.

[Greencar]

huit a plus in old money.

[Falling Down]

I am liking the night time 1st ascent - keenus indeed

[Bonjoy]

Brilliant work Keenus! Quality line!
 It is in a relatively open section of the crag, at the bottom of the buttress (with Plumbline and Umbongo on)on the right (if facing the crag) of the central decent gully.
 There is also a high quality dyno project on a buttress a little beyond the last described buttress in the guide. Well hidden, but fairly open when you get to it (or was last time I was there). Project hunters might also want to check out the standing/sitting start (normal prob has jump start) to Hat's for Clowns, across the valley at eatswood.

[SA Chris]

Hats for Clowns , surely.

Just beating dave to the mark there, I know how he likes apostrophes.

[Bonjoy]

The shame  

[dave]

i just assumed it was a typo on the second word, and that he was refering to four clowns, belonging to some guy named Hat.

[(woz)]

Project hunters might also want to check out the standing/sitting start (normal prob has jump start) to Hat's for Clowns, across the valley at eatswood.

is eatswood still banned like it says in the guide? i quite fancy a trip there after seeing the pics in the guide.

[dom]

Whats it called?  Is River Of Life the name?

[Bonjoy]

It's as banned as it always has been and the owners position is sufficiently entrenched that getting caught at the crag is not going to make things any worse IMO. In reality you will not get rumbled if you go there to boulder as long as you don't shout and scream. All the bouldering is well out of eyeshot hidden by trees from the farm (the owners farm is the one beyond the crag, not the one near where you leave the road on the approach), which must be a quarter of a mile away anyway. People only get caught if making excessive noise or belaying in load clothing at the top of the crag.
 Back on topic, I sincerely hope James's new problem gets the credit and coverage it deserves in the mags. Classic 8a+s on peak grit are a rare thing indeed! A piece for Friction would be good.

[Buoux 8C]

Looks a great problem, well done James, i also hope this is reported in the mags.
can someone shed some light on finding turning stone edge, i have hte chatsworth guide but he directions are crap. from the M1 junciton 28 dont you head towards cractcliffe and then take a right turn at a big gardening shop or something like that? directions would be helpfull anyone.

[Ru]

Wholeheartedly agree. I'm on the case. Classic 8a+s on peak grit are few and far between, esp ones that aren't one conditions dependant move long. This one looks totally classic and I can't wait to try it. I like the night time on-the-job shots too. That's two new classic grit probs in as many weeks.

In relation to another thread hereabouts, I do try in my reports to give weight to important/interesting/newsworthy stuff in proportion to it's quality and not in proportion to who does it, or even how many ascents a route has had. If anyone feels aggrieved with anything I've written, PM me.

[Fiend]

Frankenjura9a:

This should help (refer to the BMC guide diagram too).

multimap link

Basically, you are aiming for that little Y junction just south of the word "road" in Holestone Gt Road. Get on either the A632 and turn off onto H Gt Rd (the junction is near the top of a large, long hill leading down towards Ashover), or get on the A615 and turn back on yourself onto the B6014 and turn off that onto H Gt Rd.

When you reach that Y junction, either pack up there, or continue down the track to a muddy pull in where the track ends (warning: lots of things to scratch your car....which could also end up an in-situ car if it's really muddy down the bottom).

From the parking you should be able to see Cocking Tor, head up the hill to the left of that, then walk along the top and navigate hopelessly through the rhodies to Turningstone Edge down on your right.

[Doylo]

nice1 darse

[Huffy]

Second that,

Keen to see what it's like...

[Pantontino]

If it's any consolation Bonjoy I've already exchanged emails with James.
Okay, so it'll be weeks later than what you read on here, but I always try and give coverage where it is deserved, and not just to whoever bombards me with material.

[andy_e]

Cocking Tor

         

</immaturity>

anything else good there? the routes look trash (says i from lancashire)

[dave]

turdingstone edge is roughly where the words "Overton Hall" are on this map.

I thought turdingstone was shit for routes cos i've only been there twice - once was an epic outing with paz in waist deep snow we couldn't even find the crag. secondly we found the crag but it was massivley overgrown. this problem looks much better than owt on the crag though.

The amusingly named cocking tor i thought was excellent however - only about 4 routes but all good looking, though i had to be rescued from the top of an E2. Its a good view anall - when we were there i think some sikh guy turned up at the top of the crag to medidate or some shit - word.

[Fiend]

I think there are some nice routes there. I like routes though.

At some point I'll drag myself back to back off Rainy Day Blues again  :?

[Jim]

the best looking thing there is over near where bonjoy's project type thing is, from the top of the block with the tor type thing on, throw a bouldering mat into the rhodies and jump onto it. looks awesome, didn't try it mind

[r-man]

The Turningstone project is no more. After far too many days effort, Keenus finaly climbed his roof project at about 10pm on friday night.

Looks really good. Any more details? What are the moves? What's the crux?

[Bonjoy]

For a quicker walk-in, park half way along Holestone Gate Road by a gate into a field with a small circular walled off wood on the north/crag side of the road. Follow path through field, then wood, then field and continue straight ahead, should lead you to big the Beech tree near top of descent gully.
 The Jellyache and Cyclop's Eye on CT are both excellent. Turningstone is a bit overhyped in the Chatsworth guide but has a few very good routes nonetheless. National Power, E5 in guide but more like hard E3 is a very fun totally safe roof route. Rainy Day Blues, Overton Arete and Hugo Devries are all good. If you are there with a pad the overhung smallish arete a couple metres left of Overton Arete has a good 7a/7a+ dyno up it.

 Just for the record I for one have no beef with either Ru or Pantontino's slots in the mags. For me they are usually the best bits of the respective mags infact.

[fatneck]

Just for the record I for one have no beef with either Ru or Pantontino's slots in the mags. For me they are usually the best bits of the respective mags infact.

Hear Hear    

[BenF]

Totally off topic, but I notice you're online...  Si (fatneck), are you climbing tonight?  And did you go to the Breck on Tuesday by the way?  Was it dry?

[grimer]

Yes, and surely these 2 examples are what mags are best at, ie giving context to what's going on, and should be what mags should do more of.

In this respect, i think that ditching Neil Foster as the rock noter after High and OTE merged was a terrible move, as his reports always had a great authority and depth of knowledge, and was always the best thing about High.

[grimer]

Oh, and on a different note, how do you go about being something other than a 'manacing presence' on the little box on the left? I don't want to be a menacing presence.

[r-man]

The more you post, the less menacing you become...

[grimer]

Grrrrrrr

[Johnny Brown]

Agreed on Neil Foster. He could even make sport climbing seem interesting.

[Bonjoy]

Oh, and on a different note, how do you go about being something other than a 'manacing presence' on the little box on the left? I don't want to be a menacing presence.

 What would you like to be? Ant Farmer, Horse Worrier, Racing Pigeon ?

[r-man]

James 'Keen yoof' Pearsons has sent his roof project at Turning stone edge near Matlock. James reckons 8a+ for this new problem - name to be confirmed. Ta to UKB for the news, more and pics

Isn't it called River of Life?

[Bubba]

Oh, and on a different note, how do you go about being something other than a 'manacing presence' on the little box on the left? I don't want to be a menacing presence.

you can have whatever you want grimer, those are just the default titles....PM me with your chosen name, unless you want Bonjoy to choose one for you

[dave]

Agreed on Neil Foster. He could even make sport climbing seem interesting.

he also has the best trousers in the '89 stanage guide.

[dobbin]

Isn't it called River of Life?

Dunno - is it?

[r-man]

Well what else is the thread title about then?  :?

[grimer]

yeah, i loved the neil foster bit. You sort of got the impression he'd seen it all, and could put things into a good historical as well as contemporary context. You know, he didn't just say this has happened and this is how hard it is, but he'd say This has happened, it's signifucant, and here's why. In the end they just shat him off with all  the courtesy you'd expect.

[dobbin]

Well what else is the thread title about then?  :?

Never assume anything. To do so makes an ASS of U and ME  :wink:

Someone else has asked the question earlier on and noone has confirmed or denied thats its called River of LIfe.

[fatneck]

Totally off topic, but I notice you're online... Si (fatneck), are you climbing tonight? And did you go to the Breck on Tuesday by the way? Was it dry?

Didn't want to totally hijack this thread so have PM'd you Ben!
Easy :

[Bonjoy]

Nice choice Grimer, it's a strange mental picture!

[Jim]

disapointed keenus didn't go with my suggestion, but looking back on it, its a bit gay

[SA Chris]

Well what else is the thread title about then?  :?

I'm glad I'm not the only person who is confused then :shock:

What does the thread title refer to in that case?

[james]

Ok to clear up any confusion, the problem is called River Of Life.  Sorry Jim, I was keen for your name but Unclesomebody pursuaded me out of it.

[SA Chris]

Cool, from the nag's gob as it were.

Fine effort yoof.

[saltbeef]

yeah, i loved the neil foster bit. You sort of got the impression he'd seen it all, and could put things into a good historical as well as contemporary context. You know, he didn't just say this has happened and this is how hard it is, but he'd say This has happened, it's signifucant, and here's why. In the end they just shat him off with all  the courtesy you'd expect.

couldn't agree more. well written. fucking climb man. cocksuckers the lot of them. i wouldn't wipe my arse with that shit.

[Jim]

Ok to clear up any confusion, the problem is called River Of Life.  Sorry Jim, I was keen for your name but Unclesomebody pursuaded me out of it.

you let uncle talk you into something?
oh well, its all downhill from here then