UKBouldering.com

Klem's Bulge - Sheep Pen boulders (Read 2224 times)

Luke

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 10
  • Karma: +0/-0
Klem's Bulge - Sheep Pen boulders
November 21, 2005, 12:30:39 pm
I struggled on this for hours until I discovered toe-hooking on the starting undercut, then it felt rather easy for a V5. Is this the norm or am I really clever?  :?

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#1 Klem's Bulge - Sheep Pen boulders
November 21, 2005, 07:27:13 pm
doesn't sound like you're really clever if it took you hours to find it :wink:

Luke

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 10
  • Karma: +0/-0
#2 Klem's Bulge - Sheep Pen boulders
November 22, 2005, 11:10:08 am
Ok, maybe 'hours' was an exaggeration. I admit it was a while though.  :oops:

Pantontino

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3327
  • Karma: +97/-1
    • www.northwalesbouldering.com
#3 Klem's Bulge - Sheep Pen boulders
November 22, 2005, 05:28:10 pm
It's ages since I did this last, so I can't remember exactly how it went. Maybe you've sussed a new trick, these things do happen. I watched Caff do Johnny's Wall (which might have to be changed to Stevie's Wall, because I recently found out that Mr Haston did it first back in the late 70s) a few weeks ago with a completely new sequence - he managed to get his left foot into the diagonal pocket on the problem to the left and rock it out statically for the top. Most distressing!

Did you do the lower version of Klem's Bulge that gets V6/7a?

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29384
  • Karma: +638/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#4 Klem's Bulge - Sheep Pen boulders
November 23, 2005, 08:08:27 am
Part of a bouldering grade is figuring out what to do, the other part is doing it. It's all part of the process.

Luke

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 10
  • Karma: +0/-0
#5 Klem's Bulge - Sheep Pen boulders
November 23, 2005, 09:19:47 am
Did you do the lower version of Klem's Bulge that gets V6/7a?[/quote]

No, I did the normal V5 version starting with left hand in undercut, right hand on sidepull, pulled on and got the toe hook straight away. But i reckon you could get the hook once you've copped the slopey pinch on the low start. I was saving that for next time (when i'm stronger!).

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal