[Doylo]

Hi, i've decided to release my first film Stonedlove for those whose enjoyed west coast gimps. It basically the story of  a roadie to Europe that six of us went on in 2003. Its not quite as slick as West Coast and is definetely more immature and even bit gay in parts  :D . Usual disclaimer, some people will not approve

These are the highlights:

Frankenjura:
Stonelove 8b+
Nightmare 8b
Hurrikan 8a
Various boulder problems

Magic Wood (when the grades were dodgy)
Piranja 7c
Supernova 7c
Nothing changes 8a
Never ending story in tow halves (almost)
and loads of others

Ceuse
Violent illusion 8b
Priviledge du surpent 7c+
Vagabond 7c

Tralenta
Various problems

Price: a fiver. Anyone interested email me
crimpmaster28@hotmail.com

[Doylo]

forgot to mention susten pass and ailfroide too

[Fiend]

Is Action Directe footage being saved for bigger things then?

[Doylo]

yeah its not finished yet

[Soxs]

Sounds good, WCG is the best climbing flick ever. If it's half as good it'll be worth it.  :

[Huffy]

I fully recommend this to anyone who ain't seen it yet, it's really good.

Worth watching for the 'Dead Rat' Scene alone! :D

[saltbeef]

better than west coat gimps in my opinion. well good. especially when danny hangs the pocket on stone love and trys to pull back on... beast!!!!

[dave]

i woulnd't say that stonedlove was better than WCG but they are both badass. the jura looks jackson, i'm now well psyched for sport routes again, must remember to watch this dvd again in march/april.

everyone should get this, its well worth five bananas.

[casa]

So...on the weekend i found myself alone at home for the first time in many many years. Had a few glasses of vino and decided to re-visit some old climbing movies. Couple of Dosages, Best Forgotten Whatever, then W-C-G[/b]. Here are some feeble observations -
1. I don't think there has been a better film made. Especially the 1st half an our or so is fucking genius. (Doylo Big Up Yourself)
2. R.S WAS PROPER fucking STRONG wasn't he!!! Didn't anybody on here ever take him out bouldering ?
3. Gutted for Danny on the flash of M/L. He looked super strong and SMOOTH, was/is he as good as he looks ?
4. There were so proper wads on the trip and i know a few of the protagonists occasionally come on here, so... who d'ya recon was the strongest that trip? Who came away with the best tick list? Can we have a brief update on what everyone is still doing?  (Feel free to tell me to mind my own fucking business where appropriate).
5. The Evilution Boulder looks proper wicked, is it so in real life? Is it let down by anything?
6. Best looking problem for me....The Angler.
7. Never noticed before but there are some super stills/photos at the end, caps the film very nicely. Do the protagonists generally remember the trip fondly?

[moose]

So...on the weekend i found myself alone at home for the first time in many many years. Had a few glasses of vino and decided to re-visit some old climbing movies. Couple of Dosages, Best Forgotten Whatever, then W-C-G[/b]. Here are some feeble observations -
1. I don't think there has been a better film made. Especially the 1st half an our or so is fucking genius. (Doylo Big Up Yourself)
2. R.S WAS PROPER fucking STRONG wasn't he!!! Didn't anybody on here ever take him out bouldering ?
3. Gutted for Danny on the flash of M/L. He looked super strong and SMOOTH, was/is he as good as he looks ?
4. There were so proper wads on the trip and i know a few of the protagonists occasionally come on here, so... who d'ya recon was the strongest that trip? Who came away with the best tick list? Can we have a brief update on what everyone is still doing?  (Feel free to tell me to mind my own fucking business where appropriate).
5. The Evilution Boulder looks proper wicked, is it so in real life? Is it let down by anything?
6. Best looking problem for me....The Angler.
7. Never noticed before but there are some super stills/photos at the end, caps the film very nicely. Do the protagonists generally remember the trip fondly?

I am now determined to dig out my old DVD copy.  Aside from the fantastic climbing footage and "picaresque adventures of the strong fingered and carefree" vibe, I remember being really struck by the drive across the salt flats sequence - proper Blair Witch stuff (the simple horror of being in a remote place in the dark). 

[Whyatt]

So...on the weekend i found myself alone at home for the first time in many many years. Had a few glasses of vino and decided to re-visit some old climbing movies. Couple of Dosages, Best Forgotten Whatever, then W-C-G[/b]. Here are some feeble observations -
1. I don't think there has been a better film made. Especially the 1st half an our or so is fucking genius. (Doylo Big Up Yourself)
2. R.S WAS PROPER fucking STRONG wasn't he!!! Didn't anybody on here ever take him out bouldering ?
3. Gutted for Danny on the flash of M/L. He looked super strong and SMOOTH, was/is he as good as he looks ?
4. There were so proper wads on the trip and i know a few of the protagonists occasionally come on here, so... who d'ya recon was the strongest that trip? Who came away with the best tick list? Can we have a brief update on what everyone is still doing?  (Feel free to tell me to mind my own fucking business where appropriate).
5. The Evilution Boulder looks proper wicked, is it so in real life? Is it let down by anything?
6. Best looking problem for me....The Angler.
7. Never noticed before but there are some super stills/photos at the end, caps the film very nicely. Do the protagonists generally remember the trip fondly?

I am now determined to dig out my old DVD copy.  Aside from the fantastic climbing footage and "picaresque adventures of the strong fingered and carefree" vibe, I remember being really struck by the drive across the salt flats sequence - proper Blair Witch stuff (the simple horror of being in a remote place in the dark).

Si, Keep the fuck going! 

[Doylo]

Blimey, old thread...

2. R.S WAS PROPER fucking STRONG wasn't he!!! Didn't anybody on here ever take him out bouldering ?

Rich Simpson? Did a bit, yes very strong
3. Gutted for Danny on the flash of M/L. He looked super strong and SMOOTH, was/is he as good as he looks ?
Ye millimetres away. Still a pretty decent feat these days. Ondra made the flash look a big deal still in one of his vids. Definitely hadn’t been flashed much at the time.  I couldn’t really imagine Danny doing something like that now, was more technical then, more of a brute now

4. There were so proper wads on the trip and i know a few of the protagonists occasionally come on here, so... who d'ya recon was the strongest that trip? Who came away with the best tick list? Can we have a brief update on what everyone is still doing?  (Feel free to tell me to mind my own fucking business where appropriate).

Pasquill was the strongest/best/best ticklist. Inspirational climber when he gets going. He seems to mostly trad then gets keen for sport when stops drinking and climbs 9a usually.
Pete Hurley doesn’t do a lot, had a nasty trad accident 11 years ago, big belly now.
Mule pretty much been injured for 15 years.
James Pearson globetrotting superstar.
Ben Heason in constant injury rehab, still keen.
Spidey married and does a bit.
Keith married and kids.
 Irish Si married Jackie (WCG wedding) and lives in Bishop at mo; place they met/got jiggy in a motel. Had a baby this year.
Danny delivers chinese takeaways on a weekend and gets up about midday the rest of the time. Comes out the woodwork occasionally and does a hard FA

5. The Evilution Boulder looks proper wicked, is it so in real life? Is it let down by anything?

pretty wicked. Looks like it’s let down by the crowds these days.
 
7. Never noticed before but there are some super stills/photos at the end, caps the film very nicely. Do the protagonists generally remember the trip fondly?
I certainly do, once in a lifetime type trip. Couldn’t happen again. Youth is wasted on the young.

[casa]

Cheers Chris.
Ain't that the truth about being young. Not a bloody clue.
U r still climbing as well as you ever have it seems?
I did like the stoned bit in the bus (Heason looks proper fucked).
Tunes still sound good.
Any juicy bits which didn't make the cut (maybe a bit risqué at the time), which you may now be able to reveal?

[Doylo]

Cheers Chris.
Ain't that the truth about being young. Not a bloody clue.
U r still climbing as well as you ever have it seems?
I did like the stoned bit in the bus (Heason looks proper fucked).
Tunes still sound good.
Any juicy bits which didn't make the cut (maybe a bit risqué at the time), which you may now be able to reveal?

Still improving just about thanks...
The first version was longer, too long for the masses.
My camera had a mirror feature on it where the shot was mirrored on the other half of the screen.  I pretended to film my willy and then said to Danny, have a go this is funny. As I passed it to Danny I pressed record and he was too stupid to see the little red dot in the corner. I found the footage recently, he’s looking down at his little weener and making it penetrate itself giggling like a idiot. Might be time to upload it.   

[casa]

 

[SA Chris]

I remember being really struck by the drive across the salt flats sequence - proper Blair Witch stuff (the simple horror of

They are actually dry lake beds Ibex is a pretty spooky place even on the middle of the day. I went there on my own travelling back from Tahoe to Colorado, and was wandering around checking the boulders when I realised the strange marks all over the sand were rattlesnake trails. I was super cautious at first when bouldering, then kind of forgot about it, until i was just stepping off a boulder when i heard the all too familiar sound from countless westerns. I froze half dangling off a boulder, not daring to step down. It rattled again and I realised it was a bit further away, so stepped down to have a closer look, but it retreated into a hole under another boulder. If I'd been bitten there was no way I could have driven to get help in time.

[tomtom]

No one has mentioned Messenger yet.....

[Doylo]

No one has mentioned Messenger yet.....

Still a BMC BumBoy.
I wanna do a reunion trip for 20th anniversary in 2024. No wives or babies....

[danm]

Messenger has moved up a level now at BMC HQ as he gives rather than receives. He commands the mezzanine floor upstairs, or as I like to call it "The Poop Deck" as that is what he mainly seems to produce these days.

[Doylo]

A rather different perspective I had sent to me recently :

I think there’s an undercurrent of poor mental health and disturbance to the portrayal which is misinterpreted as lads having fun. It’s near psychotic at times, and there’s no acknowledgement of this. It just gets held up as something else, the magic trip etc. The other side of film, what’s not being said. It reminds me of a bad acid trip I once had. So from that perspective I think it lacks honesty in the narrative and interpretation with climbers. My sense is people were on the verge of being quite unwell at times. So I get a little bit more annoyed each time ukb roll it out as something to aspire to.

Thoughts?

[erm, sam]

WCG is my favorite bouldering film of all time- how can it not be but I don't see it as something to aspire to. For me I love it because of the energy, honesty, sense of friendship and excitment. Do people go a bit bonkers at times? Yes, obviously. Is it something a bit more sleep and some better quality food could have fixed? I think so, probably. Would the film have been as good? Obvs not. 

I don't think the bouldering trip is the best trip of all time but I think the film of it is a great depiction of a travel/climbing experience and the relationships of the people in it.

[teestub]

A rather different perspective I had sent to me recently :

Wow! As you were there you seem ideally placed to comment on this. Obviously only the height of hyperactivity makes it into the edit, rather than footage of people relaxing and having a chat about their feelings. 

I’ve not watched it for ages but never worried about anyone’s mental health when I was watching it.

[Fiend]

A rather different perspective I had sent to me recently :

I think there’s an undercurrent of poor mental health and disturbance to the portrayal which is misinterpreted as lads having fun. It’s near psychotic at times, and there’s no acknowledgement of this. It just gets held up as something else, the magic trip etc. The other side of film, what’s not being said. It reminds me of a bad acid trip I once had. So from that perspective I think it lacks honesty in the narrative and interpretation with climbers. My sense is people were on the verge of being quite unwell at times. So I get a little bit more annoyed each time ukb roll it out as something to aspire to.

Thoughts?

I thought GapeScrote was avoiding this place like the plague now??

[Doylo]

A rather different perspective I had sent to me recently :

Wow! As you were there you seem ideally placed to comment on this. Obviously only the height of hyperactivity makes it into the edit, rather than footage of people relaxing and having a chat about their feelings. 

I’ve not watched it for ages but never worried about anyone’s mental health when I was watching it.

The critique is innacurate as far as I can remember but I quite enjoyed it.

[AMorris]

I often worry about my own mental health whilst watching your youtube videos, but rarely about anyone elses.