New 8A in Cornwall (Read 15141 times)

Toad · July 28, 2006, 12:26:33 pm

Show me an average person, and i'll show an appropriate grade

Fiend · July 28, 2006, 01:01:41 pm

I think Dense is admitting to being pretty average

a dense loner · July 28, 2006, 01:49:42 pm

that's the first, and probably last, time i've been in the same sentence as the word pretty

Dave Westlake · July 28, 2006, 02:38:25 pm

Quote from: a dense loner on July 27, 2006, 06:54:00 pm

problems are graded for average people

So it seems like Providence may be V10 rather than the V10/11 originally proposed for average people. Hardly a massive downgrade!

Are there any pictures of the other new problem (the harder one) ? And are there lots more projects down at Godrevy? It looks good.

Bonjoy · July 28, 2006, 03:02:20 pm

Quote from: a dense loner on July 23, 2006, 02:49:11 pm

...and thought it may just scrape in at 7c...

James is slightly taller than average, first ascentionist described as 'very (very very) short', problem described as above. To me this suggests easy V9 or mid V9 for someone slightly shorter than James, no?

uptown · July 28, 2006, 10:11:45 pm

Whilst you Cornish boys are online - Do you know what the low start to this is?

a dense loner · July 29, 2006, 07:46:37 pm

So it seems like Providence may be V10 rather than the V10/11 originally proposed for average people. Hardly a massive downgrade!

the title of the thread can be seen above. 10/11 down to 10 is not a big downgrade but 11 to 9 is a slightly bigger downgrade

Andy W · July 29, 2006, 09:02:09 pm

Quote from: uptowngirl on July 28, 2006, 10:11:45 pm

Whilst you Cornish boys are online - Do you know what the low start to this is?

this answers that question for you.

http://blocspenwith.blogspot.com/2006/01/ur-hot-v8-godrevy-main-gully-area.html

Dave Westlake · July 30, 2006, 10:29:11 am

"he had originally proposed V10/11 as a prospective grade"

one guy says V10/11, the other says easy V9. Surely this = Easy V10?

Andy W · July 30, 2006, 10:46:45 am

Quote from: Hippy Dave on July 30, 2006, 10:29:11 am

"he had originally proposed V10/11 as a prospective grade"

one guy says V10/11, the other says easy V9. Surely this = Easy V10?

Surely this problem needs a few more repeats, two ascents do not make a consensus.

Bubba · July 30, 2006, 10:47:53 am

a dense loner · July 30, 2006, 11:20:40 am

totally, and keenus can be quiet harsh with his grading. however, the title suggests that this prob is 8a which if you have eyes and are able to use them it obviously is not. please don't come back with you can't tell how hard something is from looking

Dave Westlake · July 30, 2006, 01:57:28 pm

Dense,

I agree that you can often get a fair idea of how hard something is by looking at it, but I think it a bit presumptuous to say this having only seen the photos of Providence. Its hard to tell perspective (ie someone else's comment about the block making it easier and it being an optical illusion).

Andy W

Good point about needing more repeats,

Bonjoy · July 30, 2006, 07:13:49 pm

I don't wish to labour the point, but i'm going to anyway. 'Might just scrape 7c' sounds like v8/9, therefore the average is v9/10. Given that climber A is not far off average height and climber B is very (very very) much shorter than average, I would say climber A's grade view will be closer to correct for the mythical Mr Normal, therefore the sketchy average is weighted more toward the lower end, making a grand total of V9. Sorry to be so pedantic. That's my reading anyway. Obviously it's all wordplay until more folks repeat said prob.

Duma · July 30, 2006, 07:36:53 pm

Damn! promised myself I wouldn't get dragged into this, and I never use V grades, but here goes:
Surely 'just scrapes 7c' is easy/mid V9? V8/V9 is 7b+ non? i.e. the bottom end of V9 is the top end of 7b+. Hence easy V10 average

God I bore myself sometimes

Anyway, that 'ur hot' (ugh! awful name!) thing looks ace. Will have to seek it out next time I visit my folks.

Idol eyes · August 10, 2006, 01:45:11 am

I will settle this on the 21st, as peak representative of the area, If someone from cornwall belays me, you may have your cornish 8a,
however if no one is around sennen, 12.30, with a gri gri, then i am afraid i will go straigh to godreavy, flash the fucker and give it english 5c, its up to you...

Andy W · August 10, 2006, 09:54:52 am

Quote from: Idol eyes on August 10, 2006, 01:45:11 am

I will settle this on the 21st, as peak representative of the area, If someone from cornwall belays me, you may have your cornish 8a,
however if no one is around sennen, 12.30, with a gri gri, then i am afraid i will go straigh to godreavy, flash the fucker and give it english 5c, its up to you...

Cornwall allready has a number of sport 8a's and 8b's. Monster Munch (graded F8b+) Carn Vellan for instance.

Good luck on your 5c flash at Godrevy (not godreavy).

webbo · August 10, 2006, 10:17:57 am

i think idle eyes meant if one you cornish men turn up to give him a belay at sennen.he will grade the problem at godreavy 8a even if it is 5c.if you don't show it gets 5c even if its 8a.

Andy W · August 10, 2006, 01:24:52 pm

I look forward to his visit we are honoured.

Idol eyes · August 10, 2006, 07:04:40 pm

Er, I live here, and climbed/Bouldered at godgravey ten years ago, all that was said in jest was to provoke you into belaying me on Red Rose, in return for enthusiasm... are you game?...

Andy W · August 10, 2006, 10:06:44 pm

Quote from: Idol eyes on August 10, 2006, 07:04:40 pm

Er, I live here, and climbed/Bouldered at godgravey ten years ago, all that was said in jest was to provoke you into belaying me on Red Rose, in return for enthusiasm... are you game?...

thats a funny way of going about getting a belayer.....

Idol eyes · August 10, 2006, 10:26:05 pm

funny ha ha, suppose i should inform you of the difference between 8a bouldering/routes...
but that would just be me being funny,.
Do not worry about the offer of hooking up, good luck with the grades, and see you at gods gravy