[heidavey]

I recently did the Challenge 8000 sponsered climb for water aid at Leeds Wall (http://www.wateraidchallenge8000.org if you don't know what that is) and it served as a better-than-most 'give it a go' session.  I really got bitten by the climbing bug.

So, I am going to go on a beginners course at Leeds Wall.

I have also really become interested in bouldering.  It looks to me like the most mentally and physically taxing climbing activity and the one I would like to dedicate the most time to.

I am also in the lucky position of living just up the road from Almscliffe!

My questions:

Equipment:
The way I see it, I need shoes, bouldering mat, chalk and bag.  

As a beginner, it probably isn't worth spending a great deal on shoes to start with - any tips as to what brand is good and how much I should spend on a first pair.  Or do I not need rock shoes straight away?

I don't really think I need a mat as a beginner because the challenges I will be doing probably don't require one.

Chalk and bag are not that expensive so I might get them anyway.  Any tips as to good chalk?

Almscliffe:
What are the best problems at Almscliffe for an absolute beginner?  Am I going to go out and completely suck at a V0-?

Also I think Caley is just round the corner - any beginner problems there?

Training:
I understand that the best training for climbing is climbing, but what kind of training should i do?  General cardiovascular, sit-ups, pull-ups, push-ups I guess?

I think thats all.  Cheers in advance.

[erm, sam]

Hi. Bouldering is good of course, but don't be too set on only doing that. If you get the opportunity to do some roped climbing then definatly give it a go as well.
As for boots. I think you can get decent beginners boots from 50-60 quid. Which brand is best is not such an important question. Most important is getting a pair which fits well. Fitting rock boots well is a dificult balance betweeen tightness and comfort. Eg they must be tight to work, but you will wear them for hours at a time probably, so they must be "comfortable" Though typically rockboot comfort is not the same thing as trainer comfort.
The fit will differ in width, toe hieght, toe shape, heel fit etc. You should try on several pairs from different manufacturers (at least three different shoes), in a range of sizes in order to work out which shoe has the best fit\comfort balance.
If possible go to a shop which has usefull staff who can help you work out which boot is best for you.
Have fun.

[andy_e]

the best training for you at the moment would be getting as much climbing done as possibly possible... indoors or out it's all good, just climb anything and everything you see...

[Fiend]

As a beginner, it probably isn't worth spending a great deal on shoes to start with - any tips as to what brand is good and how much I should spend on a first pair. Or do I not need rock shoes straight away?

You should get rock shoes. The friction of clean rock shoes, compared to other shoes, is a lot better - and as a beginner by far the most important thing to focus on is your footwork. Good shoes + good footwork = a good start to your climbing career.

I don't what what shoes in particular you should get, but the most important thing is how well they FIT. Ideally they should be fairly tight, with a snug fit that has few or no dead spaces in the shoe, that bunches your toes up a bit but without excess pain in any particular area. You want them to feel tight, but not to feel crippling. Bear in mind that they will stretch a bit, AND that when you start trying shoes on in a shop, it takes a little while for your feel to get used to them. Spend at least 1/2 hour trying on shoes, as you'll feel a noticable difference compared to when you first came in.

One very important thing: ALWAYS clean your shoes before starting on a problem. You shoes must be clean to use their frictional properties, and it;s important to stop loose grit etc eroding the holds.

I don't really think I need a mat as a beginner because the challenges I will be doing probably don't require one.

A mat probably is a good idea. Firstly a fall onto hard ground hurts whether it is V0 or V10. Secondly it helps reduce erosion by protecting the ground from impacts. Thirdly it helps keep your shoes clean and dry.

Chalk and bag are not that expensive so I might get them anyway. Any tips as to good chalk?

Pretty much all chalks are good. Just get the standard super chalk bags or whatever. A very useful idea is to buy a refillable chalk ball and put that in your chalk bag with a little loose chalk. Saves spillage etc.

Bear in mind that chalk is specifically used to stop your hands sweating and thus improve their grip on the rock. In good conditions (cold and dry), on problems with big holds, or if your hands don't sweat much, you may not need any chalk at all, or only a little. Try first with the minimum amount of chalk (e.g. none) and see how you get on. If your hands start sweating and you start sliding off things, then chalk up a little.

Finally, get a soft brush (e.g. toothbrush, soft dishwashing brush), and clean all excess chalk off problems, both when you are climbing them (improves friction) and afterwards.

In general minimise chalk use and always clean up after yourself.

What are the best problems at Almscliffe for an absolute beginner? Am I going to go out and completely suck at a V0-?

Also I think Caley is just round the corner - any beginner problems there?

There are lots of good beginner problems are almost all the main crags in Yorkshire. Almscliff is a fine place, although the problems can be a bit polished and it's rather overpopular. Caley is even better, but it can be a bit green. It should be getting pretty dry at the moment. Brimham is another excellent option with lots of good problems to explore.

You should buy the Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering guide, as that covers a lot of easy problems.

Also, have a look at http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/ - an excellent site, it doesn't cover many very easy problems but it's a general good source of information and covers many more areas than the guidebook.

Oh, and for buying your equipment, you might want to consider http://www.sypeland.com/ - a local shop run by a local old geezer who should have some good knowledge of easy problems  :wink:

[dave]

on the subjest of rockshoes you need to go to a shop and try on everything and go with what feels best. as a beginner you won't have very strong feet so a pair of stiff boots will help you stand on smaller holds with less discomfort, but you still need a degree of feel. personally i'd avoid the traditional beginners shoes like the boreal aces or zephirs, get soemthing slip lasted but with a decent midsole. if you drop a pair on sale you may get a good pair for £25 if you're lucky. on a note about brands, this is less important than fit, but still i'd avoid five-ten as they will probably fall to bits on you before you really get going. plus fiveten rubber is totally wasted on easier bouldering and routes, so save it till you're better and you'll feel the benefit more. Boreal and Sportiva are good brands in terms of build quality and offer a range of fits.

[SA Chris]

A mat probably is a good idea. Firstly a fall onto hard ground hurts whether it is V0 or V10. Secondly it helps reduce erosion by protecting the ground from impacts. Thirdly it helps keep your shoes clean and dry.

Especially if you are venturing out to Almscliff at this time of year; the place can be like a mudbath. Failing that, a pice of tarp and an old beer or teatowel is good for keeping shoes as CLEAN and DRY as possible.

For a beginner, apparently the Alpkit mats are good budget ones to start off. Not tried them myself though.

[squeek]

Equipment:

The way I see it, I need shoes, bouldering mat, chalk and bag.  

As a beginner, it probably isn't worth spending a great deal on shoes to start with - any tips as to what brand is good and how much I should spend on a first pair.  Or do I not need rock shoes straight away?

Shoes make the biggest difference to climbing so you should get a pair, especially if you're bouldering.

I don't really think I need a mat as a beginner because the challenges I will be doing probably don't require one.

Hmm, some of the hardest problems are ones that you won't hurt yourself falling off, whereas some easy ones you can seriously hurt yourself on.  If you're just going to try low stuff that has a good landing without a pad, then take a towel to keep your shoes clean and dry, it'll make a big difference.

Chalk and bag are not that expensive so I might get them anyway.  Any tips as to good chalk?

Doesn't matter, especially to a beginner,  I don't use that much chalk outside if it's cold.  Try to only use it if you need it instead of constantly chalking up for no reason.

What are the best problems at Almscliffe for an absolute beginner?  Am I going to go out and completely suck at a V0-?

Maybe, maybe not, depends how strong, flexible, you are, your balance, etc etc.  You'll probably find you can do some things that are graded harder than others because they play to your strengths.  Just have a go at problems that look good.  There's a good guide to bouldering in yorkshire (Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering) and you might find www.yorkshiregrit.com a useful web site, although it only has selected problems.  Caley is covered in both of these.

I wouldn't bother with training until you have been climbing for a while, you'll progress more by climbing and getting used to the movements and intricacies it requires than doing any other training.

[webbo]

. personally i'd avoid the traditional beginners shoes like the boreal aces

aces beginners shoes?no wonder my footwork is shit, i wore those for years.so my technique of my feet go where they land is all down to following the wrong foot wear fashion.

[dobbin]

welcome to the world of battered fingertips!  :up:

[Bonjoy]

As a beginner you are unlikely to have mastered the art of jumping/falling off and landing safely. So take great care to inspect landing before you set off and preferably use pads and spotters as much as you can. Make sure any spotters are trustworthy and competant. There's nothing more likely to hurt than going for a prob thinking you are safely spotted and then landing back first on a rock!

[heidavey]

Thanks for all the tips, guys!

[nik at work]

Can't really add a lot to whats been said above other than to offer everyone a hearty pat on the back.

Almost a dozen replies of good useful infgormation conveyed in a friendly and encouraging fashion. I can't imagine certain other discussion forums managing this without recourse to a number of sideline rants.

You street hoodlums are all little darlings really aint'cha? Makes me feel all warm and fuzzy...

[Soxs]

Foot work is important, you can pick up a pair of good shoes for £35 at www.rockrun.com they are called ozone's by red chili.

As for the rest it's just a case of personal choice. POD make smaller pads.

Good Luck

[Sypeland]

Oh, and for buying your equipment, you might want to consider http://www.sypeland.com/ - a local shop run by a local old geezer who should have some good knowledge of easy problems  :wink:

Cheeky sod!