[Will Hunt]

100% beef 

Subtle beef? I didn't get that particularly. He disagrees with the grading machine but that's hardly beef 

Forgive me, I was making a play out of the fact that Dave once ate nothing but beef for a month. He's a mild-mannered man, but it's clear from the video that he doesn't think much of the E(go)-grader and he wants to downgrade the world. I think I love him.

He is a man who loves beef. Eat, sleep, beef, repeat.

[andy moles]

Forgive me, I was making a play out of the fact that Dave once ate nothing but beef for a month.

He is a man who loves beef. Eat, sleep, beef, repeat.

Ah. Very good.

[petejh]

Isn't this just another case of pro climber first ascent grading perfected by Dunne: suggest large number, receive media attention, grade subsequently drifts down, job done.

Or perhaps he genuinely thought it was 'harder than E11'. It's ok to make a misteak.

[jwi]

Jorge Diaz-Rullo on Bibilographie

[duncan]

A short film about the third ascent of a 13d 14a in Little Cottonwood Canyon. The climbing is decent but it's most notable for ukb readership for an interview with first ascentionist Jonny Woodward, still drinking tea and with only the faintest of twangs after more than 40 years in the USA.

[andy popp]

most notable for ukb readership for an interview with first ascentionist Jonny Woodward, still drinking tea and with only the faintest of twangs after more than 40 years in the USA.

Looking forward to watching this later. Getting to meet and spend a couple of hours climbing on the grit with Jonny sometime in the mid-90s was one of the highlights of my climbing life.

[grimer]

I think i spotted Jonny Woodwood in a clip advertising a film called The Mentor that's just out

[duncan]

I think i spotted Jonny Woodwood in a clip advertising a film called The Mentor that's just out

You did. A portrait of Maria Cranor, an amazing woman. Jonny was married to Maria for a a number years, though the film doesn't mention this.

[remus]

Bit of Seb pr0n.

[Fiend]

Just re-discovered this which I must have seen before, definitely quality for anyone who has been to CH or read the guide or just likes outrageous-for-the-grade routes  <<< smiley is topical for the climb 

[jwi]

Bit of Seb pr0n.

Very chill. Nice!

[Fiend]

Bit of Seb pr0n.

Phwoar. Some great footage and I like the music. Good stuff!

[jwi]

I don't really understand why Seb makes such a big deal out of it being his "anti-style". It is an endurance route after all. It is not exactly Excalibur.

[abarro81]

If I had a pound for every time someone claimed that something is their anti-style just because it doesn't quite fit... It's amazing how many people who like 40 degree boards on edges think that 40 degrees on pinches or shouldery moves is their anti-style, without wondering whether maybe they'd actually find a granite bridging groove or offwidth a little more "anti-style"...

[Wellsy]

My anti style is things that are hard

Easy stuff? No problem. Unless it's hard. Then I can't do it.

[duncan]

Reequipping Swiss sport routes, main interest for me was an extended sequence on Chant du Cygne (from 4' 35").  A route I had firmly on my radar 10 years ago but I think that moment has probably passed.

Possibly NSFW as it contains scenes of bolt-chopping.

[cheque]

If I had a pound for every time someone claimed that something is their anti-style just because it doesn't quite fit... It's amazing how many people who like 40 degree boards on edges think that 40 degrees on pinches or shouldery moves is their anti-style, without wondering whether maybe they'd actually find a granite bridging groove or offwidth a little more "anti-style"...

“Anti style” is just a conceited way of  saying you’re bad at something isn’t it? If I went climbing with someone who earnestly used the phrase they’d never hear the end of it 

[galpinos]

Reequipping Swiss sport routes, main interest for me was an extended sequence on Chant du Cygne (from 4' 35").  A route I had firmly on my radar 10 years ago but I think that moment has probably passed.

Possibly NSFW as it contains scenes of bolt-chopping.

Had a few meeting with them via the UIAA Safety Commission. Interesting people!

[duncan]

Had a few meeting with them via the UIAA Safety Commission. Interesting people!

😁

I was mainly interested in the Eiger!

[remus]

Various wads making Le Voyage E10 look fairly casual.

[Teaboy]

Not too much climbing in this one but in theory there should be 15 times as much when part 2 comes along.
https://youtu.be/KMTtC6EQrEE?si=PGDhmdxwNT9l42Om

Not sure why the thumbnail hasn’t come up but it’s a video of a big traverse on Pen Llyn with TPM and Nick Bullock

[jakaitch]

Bloody brilliant! More Bullock footage required

[Will Hunt]

Not too much climbing in this one but in theory there should be 15 times as much when part 2 comes along.
https://youtu.be/KMTtC6EQrEE?si=PGDhmdxwNT9l42Om

Not sure why the thumbnail hasn’t come up but it’s a video of a big traverse on Pen Llyn with TPM and Nick Bullock

What's the route which climbs either of the diagonal cracks (visible at 6:58) to Nick's 1st belay then continues up the corner above?

Edit: I've figured out that the wall to the left of the belay is The Golden Wall, that thing with the traverses Fascinating Witches etc on it. Can't figure out what would go straight up the corner from the UKC descriptions.

[cheque]

The corner is Vroom 23 (E1) the diagonal crack that reaches it from the left is Knowing Her (E2) but that goes up and left on another diagonal crack, it doesn’t join the corner.

I’m just getting this info from the guide, haven’t climbed there. Scoping it out for potential filming was enough for me!

[Snoops]

Not too much climbing in this one but in theory there should be 15 times as much when part 2 comes along.
https://youtu.be/KMTtC6EQrEE?si=PGDhmdxwNT9l42Om

Not sure why the thumbnail hasn’t come up but it’s a video of a big traverse on Pen Llyn with TPM and Nick Bullock

Thx for posting this is great already. Have to say though Bullock must not give a fuck in life to skip the helmet when he's pulling/kicking chossy blocks off