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Quality chuffing videos... (Read 1267567 times)

andy moles

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#3925 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
August 28, 2023, 12:36:54 pm
Chalk bag magically appears mid-lunge on the crux dyno on the send  :ninja:

slab_happy

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#3926 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
September 08, 2023, 11:34:00 am

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#3927 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
September 14, 2023, 12:19:19 pm
Live stream of Jakob attempting project big in Flatanger. Looks like he's about to pull on.


JamieG

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#3928 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
September 14, 2023, 01:18:05 pm
Live stream of Jakob attempting project big in Flatanger. Looks like he's about to pull on.



What a time to be alive! Both kind of awesome and kind of weird. Not sure what to make of it. Nevertheless he looks like is getting pretty close.

remus

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#3929 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
September 15, 2023, 12:43:16 pm
He just got super close! Stuck the crux jump and did a couple more moves, ~one more hard move to go apparently.

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#3930 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
September 23, 2023, 06:39:50 am

andy popp

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#3931 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 02, 2023, 07:17:08 pm
Not ground breaking film making, but some amazing looking routes.


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#3932 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 02, 2023, 08:54:51 pm
For me, that was one of the best things I’ve watched climbing wise for so long!!

Very rare that I am totally glued to the screen, hands sweating, in total disbelief of what I’m seeing!

Adrspach looks equal parts amazing, equal parts terrifying!

Hats off to those who can climb well there.

Amazing what they were doing in the 60s… we think we were the forerunners of hard free climbing but they were basically climbing E5/6 barefoot!!

Incredible stuff. Ondra’s channel does it again. Enjoyed the fact that Ondra wore a shirt, very trad.

SA Chris

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#3933 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 02, 2023, 09:29:57 pm
In Ondra's IG  "English Subtitles available in the video settings" - for Will Bosi's "broad" Scottish presumably. 

edshakey

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#3934 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 02, 2023, 09:37:20 pm
For me, that was one of the best things I’ve watched climbing wise for so long!!

Agreed, absolutely incredible. Can't believe it didn't get trailed more in advance - the wideboyz stuff took months and months, this just popped up out of the blue. Such high production value too, we really are lucky to get these films for free.

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#3935 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 02, 2023, 10:42:34 pm
Enjoyed that. Ondra is such a ridiculous all-rounder. He even excels on weird bold thrutchy leads. In particular the last route was amazing, such a cool feature and it looks totally desperate to climb. Can't believe what they were doing back in the day!

andy popp

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#3936 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 03, 2023, 06:55:51 am
Reading this morning, my post yesterday looks semi-dismissive, which it wasn't meant to be. I just meant that the film, which is beautifully shot, doesn't do anything flashy.

Also reflecting further, I think I thought, oh just another Ondra does something slightly quirky with his celebrity climbing mates (when we all just want him to get with climbing as hard as possible), but more and more it looks like a deliberate attempt to say "look, we have this incredible history." He knows he has huge following, many of whom know nothing or little about that history. I think he wants the history known, loved, and respected and that's got to be admired (including the willingness to show all three of them having to really try on those routes). 
« Last Edit: October 03, 2023, 07:03:52 am by andy popp »

jwi

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#3937 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 03, 2023, 08:41:27 am
That was great! The drone shots showed well how stunningly beautiful the area is as well. I have such fond memories of Adr, but it is too bold for my current lifestyle. A modern style guidebook to the area wouldn't go amiss, or failing that, one that has the routes written up in a language I can read.

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#3938 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 03, 2023, 11:04:14 am
Reading this morning, my post yesterday looks semi-dismissive, which it wasn't meant to be. I just meant that the film, which is beautifully shot, doesn't do anything flashy.

Also reflecting further, I think I thought, oh just another Ondra does something slightly quirky with his celebrity climbing mates (when we all just want him to get with climbing as hard as possible), but more and more it looks like a deliberate attempt to say "look, we have this incredible history." He knows he has huge following, many of whom know nothing or little about that history. I think he wants the history known, loved, and respected and that's got to be admired (including the willingness to show all three of them having to really try on those routes).

Totally. I only worked out by the end of the film that "the lords of trad" referred to the old boys he interviewed.

Were the bolts placed on lead ? They must have been on the 1st ascents of a particular pillar. I seem to remember an older film talking about the placing of these Czech bolts, aren't they like a foot long?

Very good stuff

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#3939 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 03, 2023, 11:28:48 am
Brill vid. Ondra is just great. He absolutely loves to get on it, he loves the history and the scene, his enthusiasm is infectious. It's great the arguably the best climber in the world is one of the best characters in climbing too. Shirt and a pint man too, what a guy

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#3940 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 03, 2023, 11:58:25 am
That was great, I love all these films from Czech when they are made by the locals. I must climb here before I get really old. Mind you I've been saying that since the mid-80s when I still had go-for-it to lead some of these routes. Anyone have any idea on how you get information on where to start? I'm guessing there isn't a RockFax!

Were the bolts placed on lead ? They must have been on the 1st ascents of a particular pillar. I seem to remember an older film talking about the placing of these Czech bolts, aren't they like a foot long?

You might mean this video, I think it's been been posted before. It's a great insight into the first ascent process: starting from the ground, climb, hand-drill a small bolt on lead, hang off this and drill a big ring-bolt, lower off and repeat til you get to the top...or not. Keep that in mind when Pete Whittaker is stretching to clip the ring on the last pitch of the 6c+ looking at close to a factor two fall.





T_B

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#3941 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 03, 2023, 12:47:08 pm
I guess it’s out of vogue because that style of climbing isn’t easily replicated in a climbing wall. Plus it’s really frickin terrifying. Both times I’ve been to Czech one of our group has struggled with the boldness. If you can get someone to go then go!

Yet again Ondra shows his utter class. What a master.

Paul B

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#3942 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 03, 2023, 02:36:31 pm
I guess it’s out of vogue because that style of climbing isn’t easily replicated in a climbing wall. Plus it’s really frickin terrifying. Both times I’ve been to Czech one of our group has struggled with the boldness.

I'm not sure on your first point but your second is correct. Life changing injuries if you stuff up a F6b+ on sandy rock (without chalk) isn't everyone's cup of Earl Grey.

Will Hunt

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#3943 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 03, 2023, 02:40:59 pm
Also reflecting further, I think I thought, oh just another Ondra does something slightly quirky with his celebrity climbing mates (when we all just want him to get with climbing as hard as possible), but more and more it looks like a deliberate attempt to say "look, we have this incredible history." He knows he has huge following, many of whom know nothing or little about that history. I think he wants the history known, loved, and respected and that's got to be admired (including the willingness to show all three of them having to really try on those routes).

This is why I love Ondra so much. It gives me so much comfort to know that the best climber in the world is a soul climber.

jwi

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#3944 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 03, 2023, 02:54:26 pm
Anyone have any idea on how you get information on where to start? I'm guessing there isn't a RockFax!


The guidebook for Teplice, a few km from Adr, has some linedrawings. The guidebook for Ard was a mess though. Text only and in Czech - the German guide (text only as well) was long out of print. Mind you, this info is 12 years old...

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#3945 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 03, 2023, 11:10:33 pm
That was great, I love all these films from Czech when they are made by the locals. I must climb here before I get really old. Mind you I've been saying that since the mid-80s when I still had go-for-it to lead some of these routes. Anyone have any idea on how you get information on where to start? I'm guessing there isn't a RockFax!



You might mean this video, I think it's been been posted before. It's a great insight into the first ascent process: starting from the ground, climb, hand-drill a small bolt on lead, hang off this and drill a big ring-bolt, lower off and repeat til you get to the top...or not. Keep that in mind when Pete Whittaker is stretching to clip the ring on the last pitch of the 6c+ looking at close to a factor two fall.



That was great! Really appreciated the labour and pure Quixotic adventure. A younger me would have already booked flights, or tried to replicate it in Twll Mawr...

SA Chris

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#3946 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 04, 2023, 08:11:23 am
It's a great video. Can't help mind climbing some of those amazing aretes and other features with a line of decent bolts and a bit of chalk though.

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#3947 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 04, 2023, 11:48:16 am
As brilliant as expected! That final groove thing  :alien:

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#3948 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 04, 2023, 01:34:49 pm
Echoing the accolades of others. On a side note, thinking of setting up a beta stick van and selling their jumbo stick poles. May need to devise a gadget to join two together though.

Beautiful film.

SA Chris

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#3949 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 04, 2023, 01:49:25 pm
There's apparently a Wideboys film coming too according to his IG

 

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