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Quality chuffing videos... (Read 1139756 times)

spidermonkey09

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#3875 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
March 12, 2023, 07:02:13 pm
I would imagine the sheer annoyance of trying it is the main barrier. Such a low % move and having to do that intro section every time to the ledge. Wonder if theres any temptation to call that section to the ledge P1 and just try the rest of the route from there to reduce faff. the grade would be the same I'd imagine but obviously less pure.

jwi

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#3876 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
March 13, 2023, 01:40:53 pm
I think it is only 7a or something to the ledge. I doubt this would be much of an issue.

Weird jumpcuts, but it looks like Nico does the hard move at the start at 3:40? With climbing shoes, then the rest of the hard moves without shoes?

Pretty harsh to classify Lucien as a solid* 8B climber.

-----
* My best guess: ‘hability’ > habile > skilful ≈ solid

Fiend

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#3877 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
March 13, 2023, 02:13:07 pm
Quality 9A and 8B boulderers repeatedly falling off 8A+ mono jumps videos!

The full thing does look very cool though. Action Direct for this century!

Will Hunt

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#3878 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
March 13, 2023, 02:51:50 pm
That ledge ruins the pitch. Start the route from there with the first bit described as an approach scramble. To do otherwise is the equivalent of starting every route at Malham up Rodney's Route.

spidermonkey09

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#3879 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
March 13, 2023, 03:02:09 pm
That ledge ruins the pitch. Start the route from there with the first bit described as an approach scramble. To do otherwise is the equivalent of starting every route at Malham up Rodney's Route.

Yep. Stick three bolts in there and get a fixed rope in place to jug up.

MischaHY

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#3880 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
March 14, 2023, 09:43:35 am

Weird jumpcuts, but it looks like Nico does the hard move at the start at 3:40? With climbing shoes, then the rest of the hard moves without shoes?


Makes you wonder if there's room in the market for an ultra soft shoe with split toes (not 5 finger but maybe lobster style with big toe separate). Seems like a semi-logical progression from things like Mantra and Furia.

duncan

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#3881 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
March 14, 2023, 10:40:06 am

Weird jumpcuts, but it looks like Nico does the hard move at the start at 3:40? With climbing shoes, then the rest of the hard moves without shoes?


Makes you wonder if there's room in the market for an ultra soft shoe with split toes (not 5 finger but maybe lobster style with big toe separate). Seems like a semi-logical progression from things like Mantra and Furia.

Could be called Ninja. Oh wait...


MischaHY

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#3882 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
March 14, 2023, 10:55:58 am

Weird jumpcuts, but it looks like Nico does the hard move at the start at 3:40? With climbing shoes, then the rest of the hard moves without shoes?


Makes you wonder if there's room in the market for an ultra soft shoe with split toes (not 5 finger but maybe lobster style with big toe separate). Seems like a semi-logical progression from things like Mantra and Furia.

Could be called Ninja. Oh wait...


Ooh disappointing duncan, ninjas didn't actually wear the split shoes  :bounce:

or rather they didn't exclusively wear them, it's just a japanese worker/daily thing

SA Chris

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#3883 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
March 14, 2023, 10:58:38 am
https://xcelwetsuits.co.uk/product/3mm-infiniti-split-toe-wetsuit-boots/

available in 3, 5 & 7 mm stealth neoprene, depending on pockets size

remus

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#3884 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
March 15, 2023, 05:00:19 pm
Steve Mc is a man of many superlative and he's true to form in this...but I think he's on the money with this one, looks fucking rad.


jwi

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#3885 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
March 17, 2023, 09:24:50 am
Sometimes I forget how beautiful Verdon is, then I remember



Unsurprisingly, Jakob Schubert has no issues with the moves of DNA. What a mensch

Ged

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#3886 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
March 17, 2023, 11:24:12 am
My word he makes short work of figuring that out doesn't he.

spidermonkey09

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#3887 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
March 17, 2023, 11:55:54 am
That looks unbelievable. Shame the crux looks pretty morpho, wonder if Ondra has Schubert's span? Megos def doesn't.

jwi

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#3888 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
March 17, 2023, 02:17:24 pm
Ondra is a lot taller than Schubert

spidermonkey09

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#3889 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
March 17, 2023, 02:18:41 pm
Shows what I know! No excuses then

edshakey

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#3890 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
March 17, 2023, 02:33:26 pm


Chris Alstrin is uploading a steady back catalogue of videos to YouTube, including the full length wideboyz film. I'm sure we've all seen it, but now it's available for free

SA Chris

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#3891 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
March 17, 2023, 02:33:56 pm
How much of that tall is neck though? Doesn't mean he has a bigger span.

teestub

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#3892 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
March 17, 2023, 09:02:51 pm
Sometimes I forget how beautiful Verdon is, then I remember



Unsurprisingly, Jakob Schubert has no issues with the moves of DNA. What a mensch

What an amazing looking crag, so cool that one of the hardest routes in the world is on such quintessential limestone tufa.

cheque

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#3893 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
March 21, 2023, 02:24:30 pm

jwi

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#3894 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
April 03, 2023, 11:55:06 am
Le playboy rôde sans complexe in Loumarin. (Loumarin look pretty busy for a banned crag ...)



Another example that you can train for anything in Fontainebleau!

csl

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#3895 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
April 18, 2023, 05:35:30 am
Enjoyed this - don't watch the last 7 minutes if you want to retain your onsight
attempt on Empath (9a+ trad)


Duncan campbell

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#3896 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
April 18, 2023, 05:44:39 pm
Good stuff. Is it just me or has this gone a bit unnoticed as one of the harder trad routes in the world?

When he says “using jams makes it a bit easier” I wonder if he means a bit easier for 9a+ or a bit easier and now it’s 9a  :-\

Also kind of strange that Carlo thought it would go on gear but bolted it anyway… especially as it’s not even a future generation project

jwi

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#3897 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
April 18, 2023, 06:20:01 pm
I am going to do a bit of backseat gradning here and say that it did not really look like 9a+ to me. Short 9a+ with decent rests have cruxes at around 8B with other hard parts around them. Or does he just completely piss on 8B even after having done hard climbing before?

[edit]Great video![/edit]

abarro81

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#3898 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
April 18, 2023, 09:04:46 pm
IIRC both Connor and Pringle said 8c+. Or maybe Pringle said 8c+ and Connor implied he thought Pringle was right. Either way I remember it sounding like 8c+ if you knew how to climb cracks..

Duncan campbell

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#3899 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
April 18, 2023, 09:28:28 pm
 :smartass: good knowledge barrows!!

That makes sense as to why it’s gone under the radar - it’s one of the harder but a notch off the hardest trad routes/ascents as it’s not actually a trad route.

 

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