[edshakey]

Buster on Action Directe

[jwi]

nice! Proper wobbly ascent!

[Duma]

Really like those monoculture films, seem to do better than most at making sport climbing good to watch. Nice to see a real fight too, so often redpoints look piss on camera.

Bit OT but it looks like he'd def deck out for the last few moves, surely there's another bolt that he didn't clip? Seems odd not to, ok it's easy up there, but given the vegetation and wet rock, why wouldn't you?

[andy_e]

Worth it for the commentary alone

[andy popp]

Worth it for the commentary alone

Patta?

[andy_e]

Patta in both senses, ie. the person and the Scottish slang for banter

[Fiend]

Buster on Action Directe

Very nice, good commentary on the process.

Duma - there is a quickdraw in the bright patch of sunlight that he skips yes.

[Ged]

That was great.  For some reason my wife watched it, and she hates climbing vids.   

Out of interest, did Wolfgang use a heel hook?  I didn't think they existed in the early 90's.  Must be a bit more of a brutal move without.

[webbo]

That was great.  For some reason my wife watched it, and she hates climbing vids.   

Out of interest, did Wolfgang use a heel hook?  I didn't think they existed in the early 90's.  Must be a bit more of a brutal move without.

They were used at that time but not marginal ones like that and given the limited number of climbing shoes I can’t see it being used.
People still wore socks inside their boots.

[Felix14]

Pretty sure lots of people have done it without a heel

Ondra didn’t use one and he did it after they were invented

[Wellsy]

I'm always curious how a lot of stuff, boulders especially, were done without heel hooks and I guess toe hooks?

[Fiend]

Probably different, maybe slightly harder, sequences??

[Bradders]

Buster on Action Directe

That was lovely.

[petejh]

Buster on Action Directe

That was a great film. Looked like in the end he was just stronger than the route, cutting loose on the section he'd been trying to step-through on. Very fitting.

[andy moles]

Nice film.

Size 3 shoe! Is Buster tiny?

P.S. I swear there's a famous b&w of Don Whillans heel hooking on some grit thing...

[cheque]

Whenever I see a news report about Buster Martin I picture a little 12-year old kid. Turns out he looks like Rylan

[andy popp]

P.S. I swear there's a famous b&w of Don Whillans heel hooking on some grit thing...

On Esso Extra on Stanage I think. Can't find a copy of it online.

[cheque]

[Will Hunt]

Clearly a foot jam. Can this be Britain's first heel hook? (Arthur Dolphin, Great Western. Probably not).

[duncan]

The earliest I can think of is John Syrett on the first ascent of Encore, a Mountain Magazine front cover in 1973. 

(From Pol Syrett's biography)

[webbo]

The earliest I can think of is John Syrett on the first ascent of Encore, a Mountain Magazine front cover in 1973. 

(From Pol Syrett's biography)

Back to Action Directe, did Gullich's original sequence, straight up after the jump, rejoin the current line before the heel hook move?

In an interview in Mountain magazine Henry Barber said on seeing the picture of John Syrett that heel hooks had been done for some time in the Gunks.
Interestingly both the toe hook on Esso Extra and the heel hook on Encore make them harder than they need to be.

[petejh]

BGFBB (but balanced out by rubbish protection and no leg loops)

[Wellsy]

Probably different, maybe slightly harder, sequences??

Well yes :p I'm just curious what those sequences will have been

[rjtrials]

Probably different, maybe slightly harder, sequences??

Well yes :p I'm just curious what those sequences will have been

YouTube is your friend in this instance.

Ondra didn't go out right to the good mono to clip, so no toe or heel hook was needed to come back left.

Dai and Iker used a toe hook, but different left foot positions.

I did not watch any more than that, as the route is well out of my pay grade!

[jwi]

Adam Ondra with Tomáš Sobotka climbs Alles Frei on a project in Labské údolí, Czechia. Amazing video, of course.