[SA Chris]

Don't forget the excellent but obscure Pocket Wall at Gilstead. Nearly came off that one, scary for a 5m route.

[jwi]

...
The second best man-made route around, after Artificial Route @ Widdop??

I have to say that the route looks absolutely awful. Gigantic spans between deep incut jugs and pockets... There is one such atrocity at one of our local crags as well (at a more amiable grade)  and it is like climbing a retarded indoor route set by a lanky but talentless setter but on less comfortable holds than currently available.

The only saving grace is that there are two kneebars that Fred probably was too shit at climbing to use

La rose et la vampire it ain't

[Fiend]

So are Yorkshire folk better at chipping and drilling than Les Francais?!

[jwi]

I wouldn't know... the quality of chipping in the South-West is pretty abysmal. (One of the main culprit of making sure that nothing hard will ever be climbed on the giant crag of Capucin in St Antonin is still at it, manufacturing even more 8as at the tender age of 75)

[mrjonathanr]

A story about an epic on a Hard Severe becomes the basis for just about the best thing I've ever seen/read on trad climbing mentalities:



Spoiler: pretty much no actual climbing.

I like that, more good sense from DM. Sections of that would  be applicable to most stressful scenarios in life.

[duncan]

Matteo della Bordella - doing his best Dean Potter impersonation - and Fabio Palma shoot the breeze and climb new stuff on Wendenstock. Training tip: go onsighting 7bs but take 2-4 fewer quickdraws than needed. Also, bring lots of bread.

Routes are Portami Via (250m 7c+, not enough bolts), Coelophysis (660m 8a+ 7b obl.) and Infinite Jest (640m 8a+/8b, 7b obl.).

[jwi]

Chimpanzodrome! Jean-Pierre Bouvier!

[andy popp]

I've only managed to watch it with the sound switched off, but loved Droyer and Bouvier pissing themselves about deliberately downgrading Laurent Jacob's route. I once got to climb with Jean-Claude Droyer at the Roaches.

[mrjonathanr]

What a great series. Only climbed at Saussois once; found it really hard! For a 9a climber he sure makes  le Bidule look hard. Hope he goes to Cimaï.
Ps think Berhault did La Haine at La Loubière as France’s 1st 7c+ just before Bouvier did Chimpanzodrome.

[cheque]

Loved that.

[Will Hunt]

Isaac Buckley talking about and using smears.

[Fiend]

Which was amazingly previously mis-posted in the Quality Bouldering Videos thread and at least now is in it's rightful home.

[jwi]

This is excellent

[Fiend]

Cheers JWI it was an interesting watch despite all the non-grading nonsense

How about some nice very clear footage of foreign dude climbing on some finest UK grot:

[haydn jones]

Cheers JWI it was an interesting watch despite all the non-grading nonsense

How about some nice very clear footage of a Spaniard climbing on some finest grot:

RIP Fiend, don't let eder catch you calling him Spanish hahaha 

[Fiend]

Chimpanzodrome! Jean-Pierre Bouvier!

Well bollox, I'd missed this and just came to post the link in a flurry of excitement.

Very enjoyable indeed, great snippets of sport climbing culture and history that raised a smile, and some cool footage of cool routes.

[Fiend]

more jolly japes and stunning rock architecture from .CZ

[jwi]

The overhanging scoop to the left of the route he climb has a route called Tsunami and is one of the most stunning formations I've ever seen. I got talked out of trying which probably was good. There is a really bad video of Adam Ondra climbing it here https://www.epictv.com/media/competition/czech-up-%7C-adam-ondra-climbs-a-sparsely-bolted-sandstone-arte/602993 (from 40s in)

[remus]

A great piece of North Wales lime history from Doylo. Only watched the first third so far but really enjoyed the segment on the FA of Megalopa.

[Duma]

Cheers Remus, look forward to putting this on the telly after circuits

[Duma]

So far my favourite bit is definitely barrows failing on a 7b

[Fiend]

Just started going over to NW Limestone again, that's perfect timing. Great stuff, it's literally the latter part of the NWL guide history come to life. Some really impressive ascents, Megalopa and PUTJ in particular stood out. But Doylog you've got a mighty fine legacy too 


But yeah my favourite bit is, errr, barrows failing on a 7b 

[abarro81]

I take back whatever I said on the other thread about fiend being right...

[Doylo]

So far my favourite bit is definitely barrows failing on a 7b

It's miles easier for the tall that route too. Literally jug to jug. I've no idea what he was doing.

[Fiend]

Should have downclimbed to the ground to put another kneepad on...