[Kingy]

Margo Hayes crushing Biographie 9a+ in Ceuse

[Teaboy]

For those of us of a certain age this is worth a watch, yesterday it wasn't possible to view without signing up to Epictv but today I can get on without

https://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/one-year-challenge-at-50-7b-to-8b-%7C-old-dog-new-tricks-ep-1/606781

[duncan]

Frome Valley esoterica, from the maker of the excellent Bristol buildering video a couple of years back. It's slow, specialist interest, and won't be coming to epictv soon. I liked it.

For those of us of a certain age this is worth a watch,

For me and the other person that doesn't know Richie, how hard did he climb when he was climbing at his best? Is this old dog, new tricks or old dog, old tricks revisited?

It seems to me that regaining your sport standard at 50 should be feasable given advances in training and rehabilitation in the last 20 years. Improving significantly on it is a different story.

[Teaboy]

I also don't know know Richie but as an avid magazine reader back in the day I seem to recall he was a strong boulderer (7C/+?) and did lots of routes (E8/8a+) but more telling was the bit at the beginning of the film where it was implied his finger strength was already of the required standard for 8b+. Regardless, it's all grist to the mill as there is an increasing list of already accomplished climbers who have been able to push their grade past 50

[SamT]

Yeah - lots of 8a and 8a+.  Strong as, on short, steep fingery stuff, but also very prone to getting carried away with his own boundless enthusiasm and pulling so hard something snapped.

http://casaquiros.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/patta-cooks-leap.jpg  .. moments before a broken ankle.

[andy popp]

Frome Valley esoterica, from the maker of the excellent Bristol buildering video a couple of years back. It's slow, specialist interest, and won't be coming to epictv soon. I liked it.

I liked it to, a lot. Much of the climbing does look terrible, but that's not the point. These local spots are an important facet of the British climbing scene and the film really captured that. It captured a lot of beauty too. I can see why people would keep going back there.

It reminded me quite bit of this film about the sandstone crags at Armathwaite:

[SamT]

Nice one for pointing that out Andy,  the outlaws are from up that way so I might have to make my excuses and go for poddle.

[Muenchener]

I liked it to, a lot. Much of the climbing does look terrible, but that's not the point. These local spots are an important facet of the British climbing scene and the film really captured that.

+1

I mourn the landfilling of Whitwick Quarry to this day, even though it's over thirty years since I was last there. And you had to be careful to stand on the bits of the footholds that were rock not paint for optimal friction.

[mrjonathanr]

Cheers for that teaboy. Patta's a beast though, always has been.

[T_B]

Cheers for that teaboy. Patta's a beast though, always has been.

IIRC Richie did Pork and Beans back int day, which at 7C+/8A on the 50 deg school board means he is easily strong enough to do some plodding Spanish 8b+. Does he have the motivation to train the level of fitness required?

[Kingy]

I saw Richie fall off the last move of Staminaband years ago, which is 8b+ as a route. His crag banter is definitely 8c though! 

[lagerstarfish]

For those of us of a certain age this is worth a watch, yesterday it wasn't possible to view without signing up to Epictv but today I can get on without

https://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/one-year-challenge-at-50-7b-to-8b-%7C-old-dog-new-tricks-ep-1/606781

I like the out of focus Cupboard at 7:20

[duncan]

Crackaholic: Bohuslän climbing. 

[duncan]

Roots Rock Arapiles: a short about the early days of climbing at Mt. Arapiles. Talking heads, stills, a tiny amount of archive footage but it tells the story very well. 

[cheque]

Old school US business in authentic "which pixel's Sharma?" quality.  Can't remember seeing it on here before.

I've been watching quite a few things from this thread recently. I've not watched many climbing films over the past year or so as they've just reminded me of how many problems I still had to solve on mine!

That Glen Nevis one stands out for me- a great reminder than you can have the high production values that we've come to associate with films that are absolute rammel and still make a really good film. Great bit where the girl's onsighting the E5 in particular.

The Frome Valley one was interesting many ways. Cool bit with the old guys reminiscing and trying to toprope their old route and also the only time I've seen footage of Martin Crocker climbing.

Not sure why that Old Dog New Tricks one's doing in this thread (not least as it contains zero chuffing- there is a training video thread you know  ) maybe it helps if you know the guy but it just seemed like a non-quality Lattice advert to me.

[tim palmer]

Not sure why that Old Dog New Tricks one's doing in this thread ..... it just seemed like a non-quality Lattice advert to me.

I enjoyed it but there is a fairly substantial wiff of infomercial I agree, I guess you get nothing for free

[andy_e]

Old school US business in authentic "which pixel's Sharma?" quality.  Can't remember seeing it on here before.

Sharma did pretty well on that redpoint given that someone was bouncing around next to him for the entire time. Quality old-school video.

[cheque]

Sharma did pretty well on that redpoint given that someone was bouncing around next to him for the entire time. Quality old-school video.

There also appears to be a member of the Eagles jugging next to him as he sketches up (!) Just Do It. Uri Geller puts in a spotter-dab cameo earlier as well.

[Johnny Brown]

I don't make it through many climbing vids, but I really enjoyed that Frome sandstone vid. I think there's quite a lot of craft there under the lo-fi veneer.

Reminded me of my early days knocking around the Cheshire/ Shropshire sandstone scene.

[andy_e]

Yes, understated narrative of local history and interesting local characters meant I enjoyed that Frome video. A thorough review of what makes esoterica special.

[GazM]

Just finished the Crackoholic Bohuslan film.  What a great and gentle portrait of an area.  Sounds like the Frome Valley one is in a similar vein so I'll rack that one up next...

[duncan]

The Salty Dancefloor, Sarah-Jane Dobner’s ode to Pembroke. “Part Atoms, Part Song” 

[grimer]

cool

[andy popp]

I enjoyed this film about Smith Rock pioneer Alan Watts. He seems like a nice guy.

[bendavison]