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Quality chuffing videos... (Read 1126662 times)

hongkongstuey

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#50 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
June 03, 2006, 12:28:14 am


The only route climbing video I ever bothered making - just too much easier to film bouldering stuff.

Done years ago which explains the small size, dodgy editing, fact i still have hair in it etc. but doesn't explain how its still my hardest roped tick....
« Last Edit: June 03, 2006, 12:41:20 am by hongkongstuey »

Palomides

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#51 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
June 07, 2006, 10:08:20 am

I have no idea if this is quality or not, as I can't get ReallycrapPlayer going at work.

Fred R on L'autre côté du ciel (9a)

http://www.tvmountain.com/rouhling/video_ciel.htm

r-man

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#52 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
June 07, 2006, 10:37:46 am
It's pretty good. There's a crazy looking mission impossible style move towards the end.

Fred's own website, with more videos and ting:

http://www.fredrouhling.com/

r-man

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#53 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
June 15, 2006, 11:36:22 am
Some 9a called KinematiX and a man called Cédric Lo Piccolo...



Awesome route. Awful musique.

Scouse D

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#54 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
June 15, 2006, 11:42:46 am
I know that route is long and that, but it looks well juggy. If I was to try a 9a I reckon it'd be that one.

r-man

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#55 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
June 15, 2006, 11:56:13 am
They do look like good holds, but maybe they aren't. Christian Bindhammer seems to think it was a mite tricky...




Fatboy

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#56 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
June 15, 2006, 12:11:25 pm
Juggy, but 9a juggy all the same!!  :lol:

Andy F

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#57 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
June 16, 2006, 07:36:52 pm
That looked path-like for an 9a, jug hauling (and some manufactured jugs at that :spank:) on steep ground.

dave

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#58 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
June 16, 2006, 08:06:30 pm

I have no idea if this is quality or not, as I can't get ReallycrapPlayer going at work.

Fred R on L'autre côté du ciel (9a)

http://www.tvmountain.com/rouhling/video_ciel.htm

fuck me.

I remember reading the fred article in ote 102, seeing that picture of this route and being totally blown away by it, if not by the climbing by the fact he was wearing a long sleeved salmon-pastel-shade t-shirt and a baseball cap on backwards. Its an enduring image. Great though that photo was it turns out after watching that video that it failed to convey the true nature of the route. For example i had no idea that the roof was that long with other massive moves off 2 finger pockets, or that before the crux theres a footless clip to be made off a 2finger pocket, or that theres a headwall to finish on monos. jesus H.

as for that other 9a video, it looks fucking piss in comparison.

r-man

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#59 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
June 17, 2006, 12:05:32 am
Damn straight, them's not normal moves...



That's what 9a should be about: mind-bogglingly monstrous beastliness at ridiculous angles on improbable holds.

 8)

Here's a link to the article, for those that haven't seen it: http://climbing.com/print/features/fredrouhling/index.html

Good name too. Only just found out what it means - The Other Side of the Sky
« Last Edit: June 17, 2006, 12:23:53 am by r-man »

r-man

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#60 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
June 17, 2006, 12:23:23 am
That looked path-like for an 9a, jug hauling (and some manufactured jugs at that :spank:) on steep ground.

Seems Paxti Usobiaga has recently repeated KinematiX. He got it 5th go. But considering he's done a couple of 8c+s 2nd go (check all time score), and others 3rd and 4th go, maybe that means it's hard...  ;D

http://www.8a.nu/cgi-bin/scorecard/show.cgi?view=1263&page=1&max_routes=100000&year_from=all

r-man

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#61 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
June 27, 2006, 02:55:46 pm
Ramon Julian on La Rambla Original - 9a+. Not a great video, but it gives you an idea of the route.




r-man

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#62 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
June 28, 2006, 10:51:18 pm
World's hardest crack climb? - F8c/+...

Quote
June 28, 2006 - Cobra Crack Update
Yesterday we reported that Canadian Sonnie Trotter had successfully climbed the hardest crack line in the world, Cobra Crack 5.14 b/c. Today we have more details about the climb and style of the ascent. Many climbers have noted that almost all of the modern hard crack lines are being climbed with protection pre-placed. This is often a result of gear being fixed from repeated falls or from the difficulty of cleaning such steep overhanging lines (for example, La Zebree 5.14a in Quebec). This has created a situation where certain individuals feel that traditional climbs made with pre-placed gear are less valid than ones where the leader has placed gear during the successful ascent. Other climbers don't agree with this position and view pre-placed gear as simply an opportunity for future ascents to improve on the existing style. Being aware of the potential for controversy, Trotter has removed any doubt about the validity of his ascent of Cobra Crack by placing gear on lead during his successful FA.

Quote
June 27, 2006 - Trotter Climbs the World's Hardest Crack
Canada's own Sonnie Trotter has freed one of the most coveted crack testpieces in North America, Squamish's Cobra Crack. It had been attempted by many of the world's hardest climbers, most recently by Swiss crack master Didier Berthod. Trotter tried the route 30-40 times over three years. He says “The rating seems to be falling in around the 5.14b/c mark.  It deserves a variable grade because of it's thin nature.  For some, the climb may feel like 5.14a/b, for others the climb may feel like 5.14c/d and on some rare occassions it could very well be impossible.  So, for now, it's certainly the hardest pure crack climb in the world. Cobra is 30 m long, with the crux pulling over the lip around the 2/3 mark. It involves huge dynamic throws between one and two finger locks, pain is ever present and the mental crux is overlooking the pain move after move.  The redpoint crux comes over the lip on a slippery side pull, the feet are next to nothing and it takes momentum and a huge throw to latch the final edge, at which point you're about 15-20 feet about your last piece of gear; it's really exciting.”

Didier Berthod attempting it:






r-man

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#63 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
September 11, 2006, 12:26:31 pm
This looks pretty good:


SA Chris

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#64 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
September 11, 2006, 01:21:31 pm
Quote
and on some rare occassions it could very well be impossible

Is this one of the most ambiguous statements ever made?

slackline

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#65 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
September 15, 2006, 07:17:46 am
Haven't checked the thread to see if its already in here, but this is pretty cool vid of Huber in Yosemite (~17mins)



Stubbs

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#66 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
September 16, 2006, 07:21:14 pm
New roc trip vid, where Sharma shows he can sound like a stoner in spanish and french too. oh and the opened a new crag and bolted 80 routes from 5 - 8c+, must be nice to have crags like that lying around....
http://en.petzl.com/petzl/frontoffice/Sport/static/Video/escalade/video/petzl_roctrip06_video.htm

Simon S

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#67 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
September 19, 2006, 09:20:19 am
I know its a trailer but..........




 :jaw:


Looks exciting!

I've always had a lot of respect for Dave McLeod, but even more so now.  :bow:


r-man

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#68 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 13, 2006, 12:15:21 am
A few shots of Dave MacLeod's new 8c...

http://www.hotaches.com/Scarpa.htm

A few annoying close ups though (not just feet). Wish you could see the moves properly.

r-man

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#69 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 13, 2006, 12:53:37 am
Bit boring till the end, but the fall is impressive...

Skip to 2:45 for the good bit.
http://www.yourclimbing.com/video-whipper_therapy_katies_scary_tombstone_fall

More of that. All seems to be speeded up. Skip to 2:20 for a fall.
http://www.yourclimbing.com/video-katie_playing_hooky_on_the_tombstone_crux_pitch

mireeves

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#70 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 16, 2006, 04:46:27 pm
D'oh, mention these in the quality bouldering fred. :oops:

 :rtfm:

Some lack quality but are good, you can find em at the video podcast link on my website.

www.markreevesclimbing.com

Cheers peeps

Ru

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#71 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 16, 2006, 04:58:48 pm
Where is Elementary Wall? Looks good.

mireeves

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#72 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 16, 2006, 08:22:11 pm
On the little towse on the praire crag on Nant Mor.

Pantontino

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#73 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 17, 2006, 10:09:17 am
Ru, more info here:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=57

There are approach details in the NWB guide and in the CC Tremadog guide. 15 minute walk in, very sunny place. There is also one of the most gob smacking unclimbed lines to go at, sort of a micro route/highball hanging prow with a groove in it. Could be protected with wires IIRC. Very hard though.

Ru

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#74 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 17, 2006, 10:13:38 am
Thanks Si, I'll check out the bouldering guide, not got the Tremadoc guide.

 

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