[jwi]

How hard is the first one in His Royal Majesty's Great Brexitish trad grading system?

The first felt like it would be 6+ in Bohuslän? Like Afterburner on Hallinden maybe? If that helps?

[Fiend]

I've done Afterburner - https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=178762 - so I guess that does help  . E2 5b/c  -ish? I was guessing E2 5b+ looking at the video, it looks a tiny bit Grond-ish.

[duncan]

How hard is the first one in His Royal Majesty's Great Brexitish trad grading system?

The first felt like it would be 6+ in Bohuslän? Like Afterburner on Hallinden maybe? If that helps?

Which is about 5.10c. Steep but solid jams, assuming your hands fit. As you say, E2 5b/c on grit if you could plug in a cam at will. E4-ish with a good (?) sling 7m below you?

[jwi]

Which is about 5.10c. Steep but solid jams, assuming your hands fit. As you say, E2 5b/c on grit if you could plug in a cam at will. E4-ish with a good (?) sling 7m below you?

Very good sling around a big feature. Falls would lead to broken bones but terminal falls unlikely. Would be an absolute nightmare to downclimb due to steepness, so kudos to FA.

[Fiend]

 

That sort of climbing fills me with confidence - APART from the high unlikeliness of being able to retreat if confidence were to unexpectedly but understandably fail.

[webbo]

How hard is the first one in His Royal Majesty's Great Brexitish trad grading system?

The first felt like it would be 6+ in Bohuslän? Like Afterburner on Hallinden maybe? If that helps?

Which is about 5.10c. Steep but solid jams, assuming your hands fit. As you say, E2 5b/c on grit if you could plug in a cam at will. E4-ish with a good (?) sling 7m below you?

That looks steep and long for E2 which these days is Charming crack or Undercut crack and the like. It looks bit more like Neb direct longer but not as steep.

[webbo]

How hard is the first one in His Royal Majesty's Great Brexitish trad grading system?

The first felt like it would be 6+ in Bohuslän? Like Afterburner on Hallinden maybe? If that helps?

Which is about 5.10c. Steep but solid jams, assuming your hands fit. As you say, E2 5b/c on grit if you could plug in a cam at will. E4-ish with a good (?) sling 7m below you?

That looks steep and long for E2 which these days is Charming crack or Undercut crack and the like. It looks bit more like Neb direct longer but not as steep.

Just watched this again and it’s not as steep as I remembered from the first watching. I thought it was about 30 degrees overhanging. However it’s not that steep, it is like a long version of The Grond. Quite something with no gear.
What are the steepest hand cracks in the UK I was struggling to think of any that are not roofs or are just slightly overhanging.

[Neil F]

Just watched Robbie Phillips film about doing The Long Hope route earlier this year.



I wasn't sure what to expect, but I thought it was a brilliant film, and a big step up from the other Robbie films I've watched.  Really well edited and really atmospheric.

And as for Alex Moore, who claimed he was a boulderer before this trip...    well, his ability to cope with perhaps the most extreme baptism of fire in British trad climbing just blew me away!

It's 50 minutes long, so grab a beer and enjoy...

Neil

[Duncan campbell]

Oooh nice. I saw that this premiered this eve and missed the start.

Have really enjoyed some of Robbie's films, others maybe slightly miss the mark for me. Interested to see which side this sits for me but its a good sign if you like it Neil, as at heart you are the kind of climber I aspire to be like 

Its obviously a rediculous bit of crag and being a longer film is likely gonna be less clickbait-ey and hopefully just some nice long shots of the climbing.

Will get a suitably tasty beer loaded up and enjoy it later in the week.

[fatneck]

Really enjoyed this. Good mix of irreverence and hard climbing!

[edshakey]

Flatanger videos from Jakob and Adam. More climbing in Jakob's, but a useful graphic in Adam's (just after 4 minute mark) to show where all these crazy routes actual go in the cave.

[jwi]

they are not much into clipping draws, are they?

[Fiend]

they are not much into clipping draws, are they?

Jakob was definitely TRYING to clip that one 

[andy moles]

Not watched an Ondra vid for a while, so inspiring.

Struck by how similar the less steep rock on the left of the cave looks to Lewisian gneiss.

Odd that he makes out Norway to be a climbing backwater (maybe from a hard sport POV)... It's fricking covered in rock!

[GazM]

Yeah, I thought that too about Lewisian Gneiss. Looks like much of the Pabbay/Mingulay stuff. Beautiful.
Can a geologist tell us what the rock at Flatanger actually is?

[jwi]

Yeah, I thought that too about Lewisian Gneiss. Looks like much of the Pabbay/Mingulay stuff. Beautiful.
Can a geologist tell us what the rock at Flatanger actually is?

I am not a geologist, but I can google Norwegian and found this
From https://geo.ngu.no/api/faktaark/geologiskarv/visGeologiskArvOmr.php?p_objid=38341&lang=nor

"Bergartene i helleren er vesentlig migmatittgneis med linser og lag av svart amfibolitt"

"The rock in the Hanshelleren cave is mostly migmatite gneiss with lenses and layers of black amphibolite"

[petejh]

"The rock in the Hanshelleren cave is mostly migmatite gneiss with lenses and layers of black amphibolite"

I hope Ondra et al are wearing dust masks when bolting, because Amphibolite may (but may not) contain Amphibole asbestos. If it was the type of Amphibolite containing Amphibole then breathing the dust* created while bolting would be bad news for long term lung health.


* breathing any dust when drilling is obvs not good for lungs, but drilling asbestos fibres much worse.

[Fiend]

good footage, good commentary.

[SA Chris]

Yeah, I thought that too about Lewisian Gneiss.

I though that too, very reminiscent of some of the Lewis Crags and Sheigra, only steeper and less featured.

They mention easier routes to the left, but what of the row of crags behind it! (and that triangular boulder..)

[jwi]

Yeah, I thought that too about Lewisian Gneiss.

I though that too, very reminiscent of some of the Lewis Crags and Sheigra, only steeper and less featured.

They mention easier routes to the left, but what of the row of crags behind it! (and that triangular boulder..)

There are plenty of other crags around the cave. Some with bolted routes on them. Some twenty years ago I did a two-three pitch trad route on one of the crags behind the cave. I think that crag might be permanently banned now though.

[SA Chris]

Banned because of? Birds?

[GazM]

Is there a guidebook that covers that area JWI? As in, not just the cave but other nearby crags?
It looks like such a beautiful area, I'd love to visit one day.

[SA Chris]

Some of my wife's colleagues in Bergen offered us use of their cabins in the summer, and i though it would be cool to go see the cave, then had a look at the 13 hour drive on google maps, and was reminded that Norway is huge.

I think he means backwater compared to the amount of accessible climbing in "Southern Europe". You could travel from Ceuse to Northern Spain in less time. 

[Ged]

We went there on our honeymoon in the van as part of a Norway tour. It really is a beautiful area. I can confirm that the climbing on the wall to the left of the main cave is indeed brilliant, and also a lot like the best of pabbay.

I did a fair bit of running too, and there is an awful lot of rock that would be prime for ground up trad, ranging from very easy to hard. The cliffs just behind the campsite were pretty undeveloped when we were there (2016).

We may have just got lucky, but I think the area tend to get better weather than the south west of Norway.

[SA Chris]

Maybe you were lucky, friends went to Lofoten for 2 weeks and had 13 days of rain.