[Fiend]

Nice. That upper headwall bit was great!

[mrjonathanr]

https://youtu.be/Ay3mzFmhcGk?t=687

Sandstone climbing should have a bit of adventure, maybe it should be safe, but still stepping into the unknown and not knowing whether this climb is possible or not, is...is the essence of sandstone climbing that should remain for ever.

Nice reflection on onsight climbing there.

[remus]

Interesting discussion about what counts as an FA, plus some horrible ratting that'd be right at home at the tor.

[haydn jones]

How is this even a discussion. He toproped it, that's not a FA....

[Neil F]

Interesting discussion about what counts as an FA, plus some horrible ratting that'd be right at home at the tor.

Call me old fashioned, but top-roping (even self top-roping) does not a First Ascent make. 

It's a bit like taking pre-clipping the first, or was it the second - or even the third bolt approach to it's logical conclusion.  Except it's completely illogical...!

Route looks nails, mind, or at least it will be when someone climbs it 

ps. sorry - late to the party.  I see you're all on the sandstone now...   

[Fiend]

How is this even a discussion. He toproped it, that's not a FA....

This. That was a lot of lead attempts to watch (admittedly cool climbing footage) and a lot of waffle to basically say "it's still a toprope problem awaiting a first ascent".

[mark20]

How is this even a discussion. He toproped it, that's not a FA....

This. That was a lot of lead attempts to watch (admittedly cool climbing footage) and a lot of waffle to basically say "it's still a toprope problem awaiting a first ascent".

Unless of course the route is a blank wall between two significant trad crack lines, pointlessly dangerous to trad climb, and bolting it would ruin the trad routes either side. Then toproping would be the logical style of ascent

[Fiend]

Pre-placed side-runners at a completely arbitrary height!

[spidermonkey09]

How is this even a discussion. He toproped it, that's not a FA....

This. That was a lot of lead attempts to watch (admittedly cool climbing footage) and a lot of waffle to basically say "it's still a toprope problem awaiting a first ascent".

Unless of course the route is a blank wall between two significant trad crack lines, pointlessly dangerous to trad climb, and bolting it would ruin the trad routes either side. Then toproping would be the logical style of ascent

Obviously hypothetical, but if you could reach the bolts from the trad route, you could therefore reach the cracks from the blank wall, meaning it was either a shit eliminate or possible to protect by moving into the cracks periodically. If you can't reach the bolts from the trad routes, then they don't interfere, so it could be bolted.

[webbo]

How is this even a discussion. He toproped it, that's not a FA....

This. That was a lot of lead attempts to watch (admittedly cool climbing footage) and a lot of waffle to basically say "it's still a toprope problem awaiting a first ascent".

Given he puts his shoes on hanging on the rope. That alone should getting the first ascent in my book.
Shit I struggle to get mine on sat in a chair.

[petejh]

One of those where if he looks forward 2 years from now, after 2 more climbing seasons will have passed - i.e. where you aren't time pressured into claiming something just in time before the onset of a 6-month long Canadian winter - and imagines reflecting back, he'd probably realise he's being stupid to claim this is a legit FA.

[SA Chris]

90% of the comments on youtube are pretty depressing. Anyone who speaks out and (rightly) calls BS is getting flamed.

[Fiend]

Given he puts his shoes on hanging on the rope. That alone should getting the first ascent in my book.
Shit I struggle to get mine on sat in a chair.

It was a pretty cool scene / backdrop on his shunt practise go, yeah.

[jwi]

Teplice in all its glory. Of the three, I did the first, luckily never spotted the second and got horribly spanked by the last one.

[grimer]

Crokey! That place strikes terror into my heart. I went once for a few days, just looking. So incredible.

[grimer]

Ah thanks for that link JWI, really loved that :-)

[duncan]

Teplice in all its glory. Of the three, I did the first, luckily never spotted the second and got horribly spanked by the last one.

 

Perhaps Cadarese is a better idea!

[Duncan campbell]

The sandstone in that area looks so amazing but so so terrifying!!

[SA Chris]

That overhanging unprotected jam crack at the top is my worst nightmare.

[Duncan campbell]

Hahaha innit.

A style of climbing that (if you’re not good at it) one saving grace is that it is very protectable - and you are jamming up it with just some shitty monkey fists and overhands to protect you as you quest away from a bolt for miles… 

[grimer]

The Terror!

Sean's Number One!

[cheque]

The Elbe sandstone area is so appealing to me but it only takes me a minute or so of any video to remember that I have absolutely nothing like the head for the climbing there. By the end I feel like I’ve reached a new level of appreciation of cams and nuts.

[rginns]

Not been through all 152 pages of the thread for this, so apologies if it's in there somewhere... 
Does anyone have a copy of consumed I could download?
Even happy to puchase a DVD - happy to pay for either option...
such a brilliant psyche film but due to it's disappearance from youtube it's disappeared from my life!
cheers in advance

[Fiend]

Teplice in all its glory. Of the three, I did the first, luckily never spotted the second and got horribly spanked by the last one.

Brilliant all round!

How hard is the first one in His Royal Majesty's Great Brexitish trad grading system?

[Paul B]

The Elbe sandstone area is so appealing to me but it only takes me a minute or so of any video to remember that I have absolutely nothing like the head for the climbing there. By the end I feel like I’ve reached a new level of appreciation of cams and nuts.

Have you climbed on the towers surrounding Moab? I reckon if you looked at the right things (at the wider end of wrong) you could get a lite version of the experience.