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Quality chuffing videos... (Read 1139911 times)

petejh

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#3725 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
June 22, 2022, 05:14:06 pm
Thought the recent Magnus Midtbo vid with Alex Honnold was memorable. I can't remember seeing many climbing films with that kind of footage - of someone who virtually never solos having to handle the experience of being outside their comfort zone and keep in control of their emotions on a big multi pitch solo. Obvious physically easy but it was clearly challenging to the point of being a little uncomfortable to watch. Felt more on edge than watching Free Solo crazily.


robertostallioni

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#3726 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
June 22, 2022, 05:49:22 pm
Whilst watching it I was under the impression that was Magnus' first multi-pitch solo, so was quite surprised to hear about this from 2016

andy popp

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#3727 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
June 22, 2022, 05:59:36 pm
I saw this generate a lot of debate (social media etc.) with many, mostly Americans, being pretty appalled and disturbed, partly because Midtbo appeared pressured (some of it undoubtedly coming from himself) into doing it and being clearly deeply uncomfortable at points, combined with Honnold being relaxed and blasé to the point of recklessness (not vis-a-vis himself, but Midtbo). The second issue was the fact that it's being posted on Youtube as some kind of rad extreme sport adventure for Midtbo's large and largely non-climbing audience, who were reacting as might be expected in the comments, oblivious to the seriousness with which something like this should be approached. .

Personally, if they want to go soloing together then that's their business, and it was a decision they were both responsible for. To be honest, I didn't think Midtbo ever looked that uncomfortable. Making it into a Youtube video was probably a really bad idea though.

Wood FT

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#3728 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
June 22, 2022, 08:42:02 pm
Whilst watching it I was under the impression that was Magnus' first multi-pitch solo, so was quite surprised to hear about this from 2016


What route is that? Gives me the jeebies

jwi

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#3729 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
June 23, 2022, 12:29:51 pm
Whilst watching it I was under the impression that was Magnus' first multi-pitch solo, so was quite surprised to hear about this from 2016
[... video ]

What route is that? Gives me the jeebies
I cannot identify the route with any confidence, but it looks to me like it is perhaps on the Carelle sector. Something just to the [climbers] left of the Ticket Danger raps perhaps?

[I guesstimate the grade to be in the low-mid 6 from general Verdon knowledge]
« Last Edit: June 23, 2022, 12:36:11 pm by jwi »

cheque

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#3730 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
July 21, 2022, 09:39:41 am

Fiend

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#3731 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
July 22, 2022, 08:18:32 pm
Nice video about the "process"



with and accompanying quality article here https://www.emontana-magazine.com/betom-8c-miso-burian-elbe-valley/
I would have loved a 6c version of that route. Exactly the same moves but every hold just a lot bigger/more positive.

Also maybe less joss sticks.

jwi

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#3732 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
July 23, 2022, 07:43:24 pm
I like this attempt at something a bit different




Liamhutch89

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#3733 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
August 25, 2022, 08:57:36 pm
This should be a good series. Stefano is documenting the process on Silence:


remus

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#3734 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
August 25, 2022, 11:07:58 pm
This should be a good series. Stefano is documenting the process on Silence:



Good to see even the wads have to spend a bit of time puntering around before it starts to come together.

JamieG

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#3735 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
September 08, 2022, 05:55:59 pm
Next Silence video. The 'power scream' secret ingredient at the start is pretty funny.


jwi

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#3736 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
September 14, 2022, 12:10:38 pm


Free solo of Moulin Rouge, 7b, on Rotwand


spidermonkey09

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#3737 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
September 16, 2022, 12:55:55 pm


Thought this was good, interesting to see how cool the rock is and also see the shit state of some of the fixed gear in the cave  :o

teestub

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#3738 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
September 16, 2022, 01:24:35 pm
Those massive chicken heads are totally amazing!

It looked like one bolt was so close to the wall it was stopping the crab sitting freely?

edshakey

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#3739 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
September 16, 2022, 01:26:53 pm


Thought this was good, interesting to see how cool the rock is and also see the shit state of some of the fixed gear in the cave  :o

I had exactly the same thoughts while watching - the juggy section pre crux looks incredible, ridiculous shapes. And one of the draws he climbs past looks pretty lethal.

I'll be sure to study this in greater detail before booking flights to give it a go!  :lol:

jwi

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#3740 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
September 16, 2022, 01:43:58 pm
The juggy section before the route starts properly is the better part of an 8b+ that felt surprisingly OK. I went up it once at the end of our stay and did all moves except the first two right away. Very good route as well, but a tad steep for my taste

spidermonkey09

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#3741 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
September 16, 2022, 02:45:42 pm
Those massive chicken heads are totally amazing!

It looked like one bolt was so close to the wall it was stopping the crab sitting freely?

Yep, I noticed that, absolute biner snapper!

At the risk of turning this into a ukc 'best practice' thread, I also got the shivers seeing the cats cradle of quickdraws and static ropes which were sometimes clipped into single bolts with multiple biners.

Was also interested to hear that he thought the 8c starting section added nothing and the route could also be started by jugging up a static. Definitely glad people seem to be starting from the ground, makes it way more coherent. Is the very start a winch to the first bolt?

Bradders

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#3742 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
September 16, 2022, 03:16:19 pm
I really liked the shot showing where the route goes, it's actually a pretty good line going very directly through almost a bulging prow feature. That said, it does also then seem to finish slap bang in the middle of nowhere.

remus

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#3743 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
September 16, 2022, 03:32:53 pm
I really liked the shot showing where the route goes, it's actually a pretty good line going very directly through almost a bulging prow feature. That said, it does also then seem to finish slap bang in the middle of nowhere.

Silence L2 is gonna be a great 10a when someone gets around to finishing it off properly.

gme

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#3744 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
September 16, 2022, 03:41:47 pm
Those massive chicken heads are totally amazing!

It looked like one bolt was so close to the wall it was stopping the crab sitting freely?

Yep, I noticed that, absolute biner snapper!

At the risk of turning this into a ukc 'best practice' thread, I also got the shivers seeing the cats cradle of quickdraws and static ropes which were sometimes clipped into single bolts with multiple biners.



That's where Ben Davison fell from, probably caused by the amount of confused tat swinging around. It does need cleaning up.

SA Chris

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#3745 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
September 16, 2022, 03:56:06 pm
Silence L2 is gonna be a great 10a when someone gets around to finishing it off properly.

5.10a? :)

slab_happy

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#3746 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 07, 2022, 08:02:57 am

Duma

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#3747 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 07, 2022, 11:10:12 am
What a glorious feature!

SA Chris

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#3748 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 07, 2022, 11:13:34 am
Agree, great feature. Looks like there is a crimpy option for the top move too? seems to skip something that's chalked up.

YorkshireTea

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#3749 Re: Quality chuffing videos...
October 12, 2022, 09:28:16 am
Impressive flash great footage, I really rate all the rumblr vids. Seems like a great scene down there


 

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