[andy_e]

Also, there was one of the local experts who advised that while Rhys was resting on double heel-hooks he could also hook a gear loop on a knobble to take some weight off! 

I think that was just Duncan McCallum's weird commentating style.

Are aided rests (but only being allowed to use carpet tiles for  kneepads) some bizarre Scottish ethic I was previously unaware of!

As far as I know proper kneepads have only made it as far north as Kingussie so far.

[remus]

Fuck, that was mint!

[gme]

Ace little film but i wish the people on the ground would shut the fuck up.

[Teaboy]

Citro putting a remarkable shift in there with the fan. Quality stuff

Looks like the chances of success were further improved by the rope coming taught on every swing!

Dave Graham repaying the favour.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CE17rH5AjCe/

[spidermonkey09]

That was brilliant. Would have happily watched for an hour. Hopefully Ondra gets stuck into it as well.

[webbo]

Ace little film but i wish the people on the ground would shut the fuck up.

I don’t know how he could keep together with all that noise. I would have come down and punched someone never mind buying them pizza.

[Anti]

That was brilliant. Would have happily watched for an hour. Hopefully Ondra gets stuck into it as well.

In Ondras current series he says he's training pockets. Reckon he's got eyes on this?

[Doylo]

Ondra must be getting paid a big fuckin wedge to have that camera crew follow him everywhere.  Couldn’t think of anything worse, he’s trying one of the hardest routes in the world and they’re releasing vids of him struggling every few days. Surely it’s hard enough as it is. Every time he wants to try that link from the 5th bolt the cameraman’s gotta jug up filming every go etc..Seems a bit OTT to me and can’t be helping him at all. Makes for good viewing though.

[sdm]

That was brilliant. Would have happily watched for an hour. Hopefully Ondra gets stuck into it as well.

In Ondras current series he says he's training pockets. Reckon he's got eyes on this?

Perfecto Mundo is pockety. Could just be training for that.

[remus]

Ondra must be getting paid a big fuckin wedge to have that camera crew follow him everywhere.  Couldn’t think of anything worse, he’s trying one of the hardest routes in the world and they’re releasing vids of him struggling every few days. Surely it’s hard enough as it is. Every time he wants to try that link from the 5th bolt the cameraman’s gotta jug up filming every go etc..Seems a bit OTT to me and can’t be helping him at all. Makes for good viewing though.

You can make a pretty decent wedge from a youtube channel these days. He's got 250k subscribers so if he's got a decent number of ads running there'll be enough income from the channel to pay for a camera man or 2.

[JamieG]

Ondra must be getting paid a big fuckin wedge to have that camera crew follow him everywhere.  Couldn’t think of anything worse, he’s trying one of the hardest routes in the world and they’re releasing vids of him struggling every few days. Surely it’s hard enough as it is. Every time he wants to try that link from the 5th bolt the cameraman’s gotta jug up filming every go etc..Seems a bit OTT to me and can’t be helping him at all. Makes for good viewing though.

I think the drone must be the worst. Those things are super noisy and irritating at the best of times. I have no idea how he manages to concentrate. But definitely agree it is good viewing and interesting watching the process he's going through.

[spidermonkey09]

Irritating for everyone else at the crag as well. I look forward to reminding Adam drones aren't allowed at the cove when he come over to try Rainman in a few years   

I did think it looks like Bibliographie would suit Ondra down to the ground. Fiver says he does it quickly, whenever that is, and downgrades it to 9b+.

[Duncan campbell]

Why did you think Jim? He struggled on Biographie compared to Megos? Only the fact that they are side-by-side makes me think they would have a similar style.

(Purely interested question as I have no idea)

[spidermonkey09]

Why did you think Jim? He struggled on Biographie compared to Megos? Only the fact that they are side-by-side makes me think they would have a similar style.

(Purely interested question as I have no idea)

Fair point about biographie actually. He's a fair bit taller than megos and there looked like a couple of monster locks between pockets on that headwall. But mostly I just think Ondra is so far ahead of everyone else, on every style, that whatever the route its reasonably likely he'll find it easier than anyone else. Megos is also notoriously bad at projecting so it might be that that stopped a swifter tick rather than the route being right at his limit? Subsequent repeaters won't have that mental battle so will have it easier. Interesting to ponder, though I am being facetious about a potential downgrade!

[Sasquatch]

I think ondra's diversity of skills is second to none. He can climb anything at every level.  However, there do not seem to be very many options for kneebars, heel hooks, handjams, etc on Bibliographie to break it down further.  It's raw and direct and that seems like it would suit megos.  My gut says Ondra can and will climb this, but i doubt he'll downgrade it.  I don't think it'll take him 60 days though...

[JohnM]

I don't think Ondra will even try Bibliographie. That is just based on a gut feeling though! TBH I thought he would be getting close to Perfecto Mundo quicker but maybe the conditions have been bad like he says in his videos.

[Duma]

I don't think Ondra will even try Bibliographie. That is just based on a gut feeling though! TBH I thought he would be getting close to Perfecto Mundo quicker but maybe the conditions have been bad like he says in his videos.

Why? he seems one of the most consistently psyched to try others routes? I guess putting such a huge effort into something not an FA perhaps?

[Anti]

I really like Ondra and his personality has grown a lot through the course of these videos, they're great and I appreciate the headache it must require to put them together.

One notable thing to me is how much Ondra complains about conditions; either his skin, the humidity, the temperature etc. I'm aware they make a big difference because they can make the difference even to a punter like me but if Ondra isn't the best climber in the world he's tied in the top spot and I feel he doesn't need to make excuses for falling off stuff at his limit. I don't think he's a shyster because he's struggling on 9b+.

[JamieG]

One notable thing to me is how much Ondra all climbers complains about conditions; either his skin, the humidity, the temperature etc.

Just standard climbing protocol isn't it. Got to get a couple excuses in before you pull on.

To be fair to Ondra in the latest Perfecto Mundo video. He is shouting about how can he be so weak and it being embarrassing. So i don't think he is making excuses other than he is finding it hard.

[jwi]

also conditions matter less when cruising on jugs. The worse the hold, the more you need to rely on friction.

[Duncan campbell]

I’d be really surprised if ondra didn’t try bibliographie. As said above he is consistently psyched to try his hardest on amazing looking routes that will challenge him, irrespective of grade.

Take his trip to America, he wanted to onsight salathe wall. A righteous goal. He could have easily done it over a few days, been better rested and ready for the headwall to give himself maximum chance. But no, he wants to do it in a day (also very cool) he doesn’t manage it but is still psyched.

His American trip had countless examples of him just wanting to experience these things. Regardless of how they might damage the ego.

He also tried to repeat megos’ fight club in Canada.

Did he also not say he looked forward to trying it when megos did it?

Also agree that he is a cut above the rest (even megos though more due to technical ability and mental game) and so I’d be surprised if it took him as long. But it does look devoid of ondra tricks. And he struggled on biographie.

Looking forward to it whenever that day comes. Be interesting to see what he thinks to the grade   

Also it’s ace to see megos applying his potential. Be interesting to see where those two take climbing

[teestub]

He also tried to repeat megos’ fight club in Canada.

Well he gave himself a day to do it, which seemed to be a bit of a neg towards Megos at the time.

Has he talked about any timescales with Perfecto Mundo in any of the vids? Seems a bit billy big balls just rolling up with your film crew like you’re going to do it in a few days, but I guess he could be planning to be there all winter . Not sure how long his 2 9b+ took him.

[SA Chris]

His American trip had countless examples of him just wanting to experience these things. Regardless of how they might damage the ego.

His fight on "Bellyfull..." being a prime example.

[Duncan campbell]

He also tried to repeat megos’ fight club in Canada.

Well he gave himself a day to do it, which seemed to be a bit of a neg towards Megos at the time.

Has he talked about any timescales with Perfecto Mundo in any of the vids? Seems a bit billy big balls just rolling up with your film crew like you’re going to do it in a few days, but I guess he could be planning to be there all winter . Not sure how long his 2 9b+ took him.

He also tried to repeat megos’ fight club in Canada.

Well he gave himself a day to do it, which seemed to be a bit of a neg towards Megos at the time.

Has he talked about any timescales with Perfecto Mundo in any of the vids? Seems a bit billy big balls just rolling up with your film crew like you’re going to do it in a few days, but I guess he could be planning to be there all winter . Not sure how long his 2 9b+ took him.

Yeah true but was also very humble from what I remember when he didn’t do it in a day.

No idea on timescales but he’s done more than 2 9b+? Change, la dura dura, and has he not done some grotty peak lime style thing In Czech?

It seems like he has some commitment to making content for his YouTube channel more than anything else. I’m sure he’d rather just go climbing than have some film crew buzzing around him loads.

[Anti]

One notable thing to me is how much Ondra all climbers complains about conditions; either his skin, the humidity, the temperature etc.

Just standard climbing protocol isn't it. Got to get a couple excuses in before you pull on.

To be fair to Ondra in the latest Perfecto Mundo video. He is shouting about how can he be so weak and it being embarrassing. So i don't think he is making excuses other than he is finding it hard.

I guess it's also the fact we have more access to Ondra than many other climbers so I'm just seeing more of it and a bit of baader meinhof for good measure just rounds it out. Like I say, I'm a big fan of the guy. He comes across as having a lot of fun and being a genuinely good, psyched guy.

Was it Tom Randall or someone saying they sat next to him at a dinner table after a day of climbing and all Ondra talked about was beta about the route all evening. I like that level of passion and obsession.