[r-man]

A few questions for the peak gurus.

At Burbage South Edge, on the boulder with the high triangular face and the highball left arete, how do you do the problem up the middle, via the slopers? Any clever foot funkiness?

And what's the problem on the edge itself just up and left from that boulder, where you slap up an arete (it's blunt at the bottom but more positive higher up) and rock onto the slab. There's a bit of an awkward landing as the ground is higher on one side than the other. Managed to flash this one, though my friend was mumbling something about the right arete not being in, though it seems a bit eliminate not to use it once you are stood up.

And also, how do you do the Sheep. Matched hands on the sloper, but ended up trying to layback higher, which didn't work. Then it rained. And what grade does this one get nowadays?

[Bonjoy]

http://www.rockrun.com/shop/prod.html?d=17&t=256&p=2704&sid=cda72b5546b82d852f1e7dae71fa272d :wink:

[Palomides]

And also, how do you do the Sheep. Matched hands on the sloper, but ended up trying to layback higher, which didn't work. Then it rained. And what grade does this one get nowadays?

Dunno about the other stuff, but I distinctly remember a bout of handjamming after getting the sloper on this. Sorry.

[r-man]

http://www.rockrun.com/shop/prod.html?d=17&t=256&p=2704&sid=cda72b5546b82d852f1e7dae71fa272d

I have it. But in phase one of my move to sheffield, it wouldn't fit in my rucksack. Besides, I'm after some beta as well...

[dave]

on the sheep once you've got the sloper then i did a kinda elavator-door tink with me feet in the crack, matched the sloper and went up to the break up left i think.

[Palomides]

I just went looking for photos of the Sheep...

...and found this

http://www.peakdistrictonline.co.uk/content.php?categoryId=2080

[r-man]

Hey, that's pretty useful.

Now does anyone know this one:

1. Classic Arête Problem 7a+
Start on front face, move up and left onto left-hand side of arête finish up this.

Is this the one where the ground is higher on the left and there's a small boulder at the arete?

Or is it this:

4. Home Cooking 7a
Just left, the double arêtes give more fridge-hugging climbing above a poor landing. Highball. (Johnny Dawes)

[r-man]

Ok so it's not home cooking (not much fridge hugging in that video though, I guess he's doing Home Cooking Slab). Must be the other one then.

So at what point are you supposed to come round onto the left side of the arete? Before or after the jug? I rocked up rightwards onto the slab, is that part of the problem?

[webbo]

i remember left hand on the arete all the way till you can reach the jug round to the left.

[r-man]

i remember left hand on the arete all the way till you can reach the jug round to the left.

Yeah, that's the way I climbed it. Once you are stood up on the slab you can reach the jug and the right arete at the same time, but before that the right arete is unreachable. Thing that's confusing me is the description:

1. Classic Arête Problem 7a+
Start on front face, move up and left onto left-hand side of arête finish up this.

Which the way I climbed it would be:

1.Classic Arete Problem 7a+ (maybe easier?)
Start low on blunt arete, slap upwards and rock onto slab. Finish straight up.

So have I done the right problem wrongly, the wrong problem rightly, or is the description wrong?

[webbo]

the way i did it you were no where near the right arete.the jug i mean is on the left hand side of the arete,you get it then swing round.

[r-man]

How can you not be near the right arete? The face is pretty thin at the top - you can easily reach both aretes at the same time. Did you do a rockover onto the slab or do it a different way?

In any case, the moves from the jug upwards are easy - I climbed it on the left as well, though not from the low start round to the right. I was mostly wondering if this problem is quite specific about swinging round onto the left arete before the jug (which would seem a little eliminate).

[Bonjoy]

The arete to which you refer is indeed The Classic Arete problem and can be climbed in a number of ways. Ru's book lists what I think is the best and trickiest of these ways.

[Bonjoy]

In any case, the moves from the jug upwards are easy - I climbed it on the left as well, though not from the low start round to the right. I was mostly wondering if this problem is quite specific about swinging round onto the left arete before the jug (which would seem a little eliminate).

 Either you can bend the interpretation of a description to make a soft touch for yourself or you can climb the fairly obvious line of interesting moves by swinging round low. The choice is yours. ie it's graded for switching sides low. If it doesn't feel 7a+ then you are probably doing it an easier way.
 The easiest way isn't always the best. The guide writer doesn't make the rock, they just try to guide you towards the best problems on it.

[webbo]

as i'm not really sure what point your trying to make,this it as i remember it.pull on slap left hand up arete, rock on to the slab with right foot[in to pocket?]reach finger hold with right, move left foot up the arete,slap left hand higher up arete,reach jug and swing round.

[Scouse D]

A few questions for the peak gurus.

At Burbage South Edge, on the boulder with the high triangular face and the highball left arete, how do you do the problem up the middle, via the slopers? Any clever foot funkiness?

 Go up to sloper from sitter with either hand and match feet fairly high and up RH to next sloper, put feet on something else not that high then go again...basically it ain't that subtle.

And also, how do you do the Sheep. Matched hands on the sloper, but ended up trying to layback higher, which didn't work. Then it rained. And what grade does this one get nowadays?

Basically just keep pulling, you've done the hard bit, though i usually reach up into the crack, sink a couple of jams in to have a breather then it's ok

[r-man]

 Either you can bend the interpretation of a description to make a soft touch for yourself or you can climb the fairly obvious line of interesting moves by swinging round low. The choice is yours. ie it's graded for switching sides low. If it doesn't feel 7a+ then you are probably doing it an easier way.
 The easiest way isn't always the best. The guide writer doesn't make the rock, they just try to guide you towards the best problems on it.

...The best problems are usually when the easiest way up is quite hard, no?...

But I'm not having a go at the guide writer! Was just confused as I tried the problem without a guide and climbed the most obvious route from the bottom to the top. Probably if I'd had the guide I would have kept left just to "do it right", and I've just been trying to work out if I get the tick for doing it my way or not. What else are forums for, if not chatting about how to do problems?  :wink:

Anyway, thanks everyone, all my burbage south questions are answered.

1.Triangle boulder problem - just keep slapping. Think I need to get both my feet up, not just one, maybe match the sloper.

2.Classic Arete problem - there are various ways. Perhaps my way was easier, perhaps not. I enjoyed it anyway.

3.The sheep - go for the break up and left. Will do.

Cheers

[cofe]

after i get the sloper on the sheep i whack a couple of foot jams in and have a well deserved corn-on-the-cob during my no-hands rest.

[a dense loner]

while i'm doing it with no jamming whatsoever i think about this thread and wonder what boulders are being discussed?