Quote from: Wellsy on February 14, 2023, 01:38:07 pmQuote from: Stabbsy on February 14, 2023, 11:56:21 amQuote from: tommytwotone on February 14, 2023, 10:37:27 amThe Pebble Wall thing was so prevalent that you'd have spent lots of time on it - I think it was as was mentioned above.Someone does it (wrong), posts up, others see sees the video...the spiral begins.I'd always wondered how much the guidebook was to blame on this one (the Total Climbing one). The photo is taken from the side so the lines aren't obvious. I can remember doing the 6C (in error), saying to my mate "there's no way that's 7B" and then trying to the left.There was a similar misunderstanding when another mate told me he'd done Sewer Rat Connection (7B+) at Almscliff. I said "f**king hell, good effort" as I'd had a couple of sessions on it and was making minimal progress. We ended up at the crag together some months later and he pointed out what he'd done, which definitely wasn't Sewer Rat and was about 7A despite what the Total Climbing guide had to say. It continues to amaze me that people can't tell the difference.It amazes me that people can! A lot of grading is (imo) utterly nonsensical. Especially on grit.If you're climbing on problems which have been recently developed or had little traffic then this is because people don't make any effort to challenge the FA's grade any more.It's crazy that when people get consistently shut down by a particular grade then flash or otherwise piss a climb given that grade they don't seem to stop and wonder whether the grade could be wrong, especially on relatively new stuff.Excuse my complaining. I was slightly triggered in this regard at the weekend and still not over it.
Quote from: Stabbsy on February 14, 2023, 11:56:21 amQuote from: tommytwotone on February 14, 2023, 10:37:27 amThe Pebble Wall thing was so prevalent that you'd have spent lots of time on it - I think it was as was mentioned above.Someone does it (wrong), posts up, others see sees the video...the spiral begins.I'd always wondered how much the guidebook was to blame on this one (the Total Climbing one). The photo is taken from the side so the lines aren't obvious. I can remember doing the 6C (in error), saying to my mate "there's no way that's 7B" and then trying to the left.There was a similar misunderstanding when another mate told me he'd done Sewer Rat Connection (7B+) at Almscliff. I said "f**king hell, good effort" as I'd had a couple of sessions on it and was making minimal progress. We ended up at the crag together some months later and he pointed out what he'd done, which definitely wasn't Sewer Rat and was about 7A despite what the Total Climbing guide had to say. It continues to amaze me that people can't tell the difference.It amazes me that people can! A lot of grading is (imo) utterly nonsensical. Especially on grit.
Quote from: tommytwotone on February 14, 2023, 10:37:27 amThe Pebble Wall thing was so prevalent that you'd have spent lots of time on it - I think it was as was mentioned above.Someone does it (wrong), posts up, others see sees the video...the spiral begins.I'd always wondered how much the guidebook was to blame on this one (the Total Climbing one). The photo is taken from the side so the lines aren't obvious. I can remember doing the 6C (in error), saying to my mate "there's no way that's 7B" and then trying to the left.There was a similar misunderstanding when another mate told me he'd done Sewer Rat Connection (7B+) at Almscliff. I said "f**king hell, good effort" as I'd had a couple of sessions on it and was making minimal progress. We ended up at the crag together some months later and he pointed out what he'd done, which definitely wasn't Sewer Rat and was about 7A despite what the Total Climbing guide had to say. It continues to amaze me that people can't tell the difference.
The Pebble Wall thing was so prevalent that you'd have spent lots of time on it - I think it was as was mentioned above.Someone does it (wrong), posts up, others see sees the video...the spiral begins.
Quote from: Will Hunt on February 14, 2023, 04:35:20 pmExcuse my complaining. I was slightly triggered in this regard at the weekend and still not over it.It’s ok Will this is a safe space, tell us where the bad man misgraded
Excuse my complaining. I was slightly triggered in this regard at the weekend and still not over it.
people don't make any effort to challenge the FA's grade any more.
Oh my god I've just seen Girls On Grit has posted a video of Whisky Galore. Will Hunt baiting as its finest surely.
...that's a great help example on NOT to discuss starting holds on a sit start on a page set up for girls on grit. Back around
if you can't reach the 'standard' sit-start handholds, then I guess you could claim it as a low start on defined holds or something else - whatever, but do acknowledge the higher start point (of your arse).
don't claim a sit start of any specific grade if you're not sitting on the ground
don't claim a sit start of any specific grade if you're not sitting on the ground.
Quote from: Fultonius on February 15, 2023, 03:34:08 pm...that's a great help example on NOT to discuss starting holds on a sit start on a page set up for girls on grit. Back around Hi, I guess all I can add at this point some way down the thread is to reassure you that I stand by my original comment on IG. I'm in the minority, clearly, in choosing to comment at all and in not sugar-coating my feedback. I'm fine with that. People have diverse views which are often interesting to hear, as long as we avoid personal attacks and stick to commenting on the moves and style.To recap: 1. If you're a grown-up climbing instructor posting on your professional account, setting an example to the masses of less-experienced climbers of whatever gender, then don't claim a sit start of any specific grade if you're not sitting on the ground. As discussed up thread, if you can't reach the 'standard' sit-start handholds, then I guess you could claim it as a low start on defined holds or something else - whatever, but do acknowledge the higher start point (of your arse).2. What gives me the right to comment on a female beta page? The platform is open to all to comment - engagement is literally what drives it.
Quote from: SiWitcher on February 15, 2023, 04:21:16 pmdon't claim a sit start of any specific grade if you're not sitting on the ground.This is such a weird and pointlessly strict rule. Almost nobody abides by this.
Quote from: Will Hunt on February 15, 2023, 05:41:55 pmQuote from: SiWitcher on February 15, 2023, 04:21:16 pmdon't claim a sit start of any specific grade if you're not sitting on the ground.This is such a weird and pointlessly strict rule. Almost nobody abides by this.Nobody except the OP, surely? I have literally never heard of the idea that a sit start only counts if your arse is on the muddy/stony/sandy/shitty ground today. I've never done a sit start apparently.
Good historical knowledge, but To replicate it today would be an anachronism except where required (eg when there is no space for both pad and arse).
Cause the protection has improved ; I gather the arse on the ground advice was pre pads right? Obviously a towel is fine for cleaning your boots and not getting mud on your arse, but it wouldn't be a lot of good for falling on. (I know I know, weren't the oldies hard etc etc).For me pads, like sticky rubber, are progress. Seems dumb to not move on when 99%+ of other climbers have?
I wonder what the bum on the sand bleausards do now on problems where the landings have been eroded down by half a metre!
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on February 15, 2023, 09:21:04 pmGood historical knowledge, but To replicate it today would be an anachronism except where required (eg when there is no space for both pad and arse). At the risk of asking the obvious: why?No argument over the thickness of a towel as there is with a pad - a towel is a towel give or take a few mm. It provides a much more level playing field than a pad.. It keeps your ass clean and dry. Be honest - you don't 'need' a pad to sit on to start a boulder problem to make it a bearable proposition, its not like there are razers on the ground unless you boulder at the Breck.Sorry for being sensible. Carry on finding ways to cheat