On problems with contorted first moves; get established on the wall using any old holds, then bring one’s hands to lightly dab the start holds prior to continuing. (This one always seems to boil my piss, and I really shouldn’t care).
around his waste is a chalk bag.... Looks were exchanged in the crowd.
Just popping in to say that people climbing obviously overgraded problems but still taking the grade and propagating it through social media is a far more heinous crime then a cheeky power-shart jet boost off a spotter's face.The former is very rarely called out and almost always met with protestations when it is.As you were.
Theres currently a video doing the rounds of someone doing “David” at mother cap - when in reality they’ve traverse left to the easier 6A+ on the aręte. Even in their description they mention that they may have gone off route but how excited they were to do their first 7B. These are the kind of things where we should be leaving a comment or messaging them to gently tell them “back around”
Quote from: Dingdong on February 14, 2023, 10:29:14 amTheres currently a video doing the rounds of someone doing “David” at mother cap - when in reality they’ve traverse left to the easier 6A+ on the aręte. Even in their description they mention that they may have gone off route but how excited they were to do their first 7B. These are the kind of things where we should be leaving a comment or messaging them to gently tell them “back around”I know this person and I'm going to quietly discuss it with em but I definitely don't think that I'd ever have that conversation publicly or post their vid to say "look at this!" Etc
Interesting ethical/moral question; if you send a private message and nothing comes of it, is it then ok to comment publicly saying 'to anyone hoping to repeat this problem, this isn't the correct line and has missed out the crux.' ?
The Pebble Wall thing was so prevalent that you'd have spent lots of time on it - I think it was as was mentioned above.Someone does it (wrong), posts up, others see sees the video...the spiral begins.
It continues to amaze me that people can't tell the difference.
Quote from: tommytwotone on February 14, 2023, 10:37:27 amThe Pebble Wall thing was so prevalent that you'd have spent lots of time on it - I think it was as was mentioned above.Someone does it (wrong), posts up, others see sees the video...the spiral begins.I'd always wondered how much the guidebook was to blame on this one (the Total Climbing one). The photo is taken from the side so the lines aren't obvious. I can remember doing the 6C (in error), saying to my mate "there's no way that's 7B" and then trying to the left.There was a similar misunderstanding when another mate told me he'd done Sewer Rat Connection (7B+) at Almscliff. I said "f**king hell, good effort" as I'd had a couple of sessions on it and was making minimal progress. We ended up at the crag together some months later and he pointed out what he'd done, which definitely wasn't Sewer Rat and was about 7A despite what the Total Climbing guide had to say. It continues to amaze me that people can't tell the difference.
Speaking of Sewer Rat check out this vid, with a criminal level dab
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on February 14, 2023, 11:27:20 amInteresting ethical/moral question; if you send a private message and nothing comes of it, is it then ok to comment publicly saying 'to anyone hoping to repeat this problem, this isn't the correct line and has missed out the crux.' ?My ego would decide. If it's a random problem I've never done and have no intentions of trying then I couldn't care less. If it's my hardest ascent and someone's trying to cheapen it then I'll write War and Peace slating them. Most problems will fall somewhere in the middle
Quote from: Br0mley on February 14, 2023, 12:28:32 pmSpeaking of Sewer Rat check out this vid, with a criminal level dab Not the best example to use given Jon’s no longer around to defend himself.
Quote from: Stabbsy on February 14, 2023, 11:56:21 amQuote from: tommytwotone on February 14, 2023, 10:37:27 amThe Pebble Wall thing was so prevalent that you'd have spent lots of time on it - I think it was as was mentioned above.Someone does it (wrong), posts up, others see sees the video...the spiral begins.I'd always wondered how much the guidebook was to blame on this one (the Total Climbing one). The photo is taken from the side so the lines aren't obvious. I can remember doing the 6C (in error), saying to my mate "there's no way that's 7B" and then trying to the left.There was a similar misunderstanding when another mate told me he'd done Sewer Rat Connection (7B+) at Almscliff. I said "f**king hell, good effort" as I'd had a couple of sessions on it and was making minimal progress. We ended up at the crag together some months later and he pointed out what he'd done, which definitely wasn't Sewer Rat and was about 7A despite what the Total Climbing guide had to say. It continues to amaze me that people can't tell the difference.It amazes me that people can! A lot of grading is (imo) utterly nonsensical. Especially on grit.
...this is because people don't make any effort to challenge the FA's grade any more.
Excuse my complaining. I was slightly triggered in this regard at the weekend and still not over it.