Quote from: Liamhutch89 on February 07, 2023, 11:57:57 amQuote from: yetix on February 07, 2023, 11:14:17 amSeems to be a few videos from girls on grit getting called out at the moment, and I'm not sure calling out a group that are probably marginalised in terms of outdoor climbing is the way to go, even if people are just having a laugh.That would be a problem, but I just went back a few pages and only 3 out of the last 12 posts were about women.Cue the tautological 'the fact that you're denying there's a problem is itself part of the problem' type arguments. Easier to just get on hymn sheet - you're a bad man.
Quote from: yetix on February 07, 2023, 11:14:17 amSeems to be a few videos from girls on grit getting called out at the moment, and I'm not sure calling out a group that are probably marginalised in terms of outdoor climbing is the way to go, even if people are just having a laugh.That would be a problem, but I just went back a few pages and only 3 out of the last 12 posts were about women.
Seems to be a few videos from girls on grit getting called out at the moment, and I'm not sure calling out a group that are probably marginalised in terms of outdoor climbing is the way to go, even if people are just having a laugh.
Filth:https://www.instagram.com/reel/CoTYWPmNsDl/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Quote from: reeve on February 06, 2023, 03:55:49 pmCorrect me if I'm wrong, but it looks to me like she's using the normal starting holds with straight arms from where she's sat? If so, it would seem rather harsh to think she should be starting any lower!^ this! Just because you can reach most stand start handholds from sitting Bradders
Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks to me like she's using the normal starting holds with straight arms from where she's sat? If so, it would seem rather harsh to think she should be starting any lower!
Bradders has a point. Once a video pops up of someone breaking the rules then everyone copies it. Pointing out the error is the only way to try and address that. I'm not sure whether that applies to this problem as I can't remember. To be honest if you have to start making rules beyond just "start sitting" then it's probably a crap problem.
Think I've said this before in previous threads, IMO specified start holds are often the 'lesser evil' when it comes to a problem and its grade being as close to a level playing field as we can hope to get. It largely answers the question of how many pads you can start off - as many as you like so long as you pull on with the 'start holds'.
Think I've said this before in previous threads, IMO specified start holds are often the 'lesser evil' when it comes to a problem and its grade being as close to a level playing field as we can hope to get. It largely answers the question of how many pads you can start off - as many as you like so long as you pull on with the 'start holds'.It thereby allows the short to pull on, and stops the tall missing moves. If you think it makes sense for grades to mean as close to the same thing as possible for all climbers than I think it's worth holding your nose, even if you think it makes something objectively silly (sit starts) a little bit more silly.PS - Are females still a minority in climbing ? How close to 50% still classes as a minority (technically males are a minority for the whole UK population at 49%)? Presumably minority has an extra dimension in this context other than strict numerical weighting. I think it's fair to say that even if females are at number terms parity with males (I'm not saying they are) that the grading system does not take them 50% into account when 'grading for the average height' .
It largely answers the question of how many pads you can start off - as many as you like so long as you the fewest necessary to pull on with the 'start holds'.
Quote from: Bonjoy on February 08, 2023, 01:50:14 pmThink I've said this before in previous threads, IMO specified start holds are often the 'lesser evil' when it comes to a problem and its grade being as close to a level playing field as we can hope to get. It largely answers the question of how many pads you can start off - as many as you like so long as you pull on with the 'start holds'.It thereby allows the short to pull on, and stops the tall missing moves. If you think it makes sense for grades to mean as close to the same thing as possible for all climbers than I think it's worth holding your nose, even if you think it makes something objectively silly (sit starts) a little bit more silly.PS - Are females still a minority in climbing ? How close to 50% still classes as a minority (technically males are a minority for the whole UK population at 49%)? Presumably minority has an extra dimension in this context other than strict numerical weighting. I think it's fair to say that even if females are at number terms parity with males (I'm not saying they are) that the grading system does not take them 50% into account when 'grading for the average height' .While, you're here then, should Blue 48 start from a low arete pinch then, before slapping up to the decent looking RH edge?Also, should you be rocking over onto the slab or laying off the arete towards the right? Not tried it yet, but may as well endeavour to 'get it right' when I do...Cheers.
They're only kidding themselves.
Quote from: Droyd on February 10, 2023, 10:20:45 amThey're only kidding themselves.This assumes that they haven't logged it somewhere and posted on social media. If either of those happen then they're not only kidding themselves, obviously.I'm intrigued by what your friend found upsetting? The nature of the way the information was delivered, or the information itself? I can sympathize with the former (I guess this is in line with what Liam is saying), but not really with the latter. Or at least I can see that the latter might be upsetting but that doesn't mean that the information shouldn't be delivered; I'd find it upsetting if Stu downgraded all my hard routes, but it makes sense to know what consensus is - if I don't care about grades then I won't care and if I do then I should know what others' opinions are surely?