UKBouldering.com

Bring out your dabs (Read 296848 times)

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4009
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#100 Re: Bring out your dabs
February 08, 2013, 10:12:13 pm
is that huge juggy rail in? Always thought it was pocket & sloper to the crimps right of that and up from there?

dave

  • Guest
#101 Re: Bring out your dabs
February 08, 2013, 10:21:49 pm
yeah I think we did the same, started matched on pocket. Those big holds are too far left to be worth using given you've got to go immediately back right to get to the top.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13472
  • Karma: +682/-68
  • Whut
#102 Re: Bring out your dabs
February 08, 2013, 11:27:58 pm
Regardless of peak eliminates, he gets the tick for that pick-up alone  :2thumbsup:. Ideally would have tied it on mid-move. I rewound a few times and the pad doesn't move.

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5781
  • Karma: +230/-4
#103 Re: Bring out your dabs
February 09, 2013, 02:39:02 pm
I used that rail, it's not an eliminate afaik. He does start after what I found the crux though. Shame as the pick up is ace!

Baldy

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 498
  • Karma: +38/-0
  • Low Bawler
    • CBclimbing
#104 Re: Bring out your dabs
March 08, 2013, 12:21:17 pm
The front page video with Zippy's trav in it is a horrorshow of dabbage.



Credit for going RH up on BP though

iwasmexican

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 328
  • Karma: +11/-0
#105 Re: Bring out your dabs
March 08, 2013, 12:41:08 pm
The front page video with Zippy's trav in it is a horrorshow of dabbage.



Credit for going RH up on BP though

my bad

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11458
  • Karma: +696/-22
#106 Re: Bring out your dabs
March 08, 2013, 12:43:43 pm
Quote
Credit for going RH up on BP though

Why credit? Its more awkward, unnecessarily powerful and not as pleasant.

rodma

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1625
  • Karma: +60/-3
#107 Re: Bring out your dabs
March 08, 2013, 12:55:08 pm
Quote
Credit for going RH up on BP though

Why credit? Its more awkward, unnecessarily powerful and not as pleasant.

 :agree: I'm afraid

If you wanna look burly (or do it Ben's way for historical reasons) you'd be going rh first then lobbing the left toe on, not heel on and going wrong handed for no particular reason at all.

good effort in doing it anyways.

I liked the guy that does the disappearing act on Zippy's, but it's definitely back around for the dabbage   :P


Baldy

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 498
  • Karma: +38/-0
  • Low Bawler
    • CBclimbing
#108 Re: Bring out your dabs
March 08, 2013, 01:12:37 pm
Well when I went up left hand I felt like I was tricking the boulder, like a fly on a horse - trying to hitch a free ride to glory in the grand national.

Going right hand up is giving the middle finger to the boulder, and to the accepted beta.
'Beast mode engaged'
Since no one else does it that way, I have to assume it is fecking hard and therefore worthy of credit.


Maybe this will bring in a new age of BP ascents that draw a middle ground between the 'Ben' beta and the 'soft' beta
Maybe it really is 7C that way? :worms:

iwasmexican

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 328
  • Karma: +11/-0
#109 Re: Bring out your dabs
March 08, 2013, 01:15:03 pm
Quote
Credit for going RH up on BP though

Why credit? Its more awkward, unnecessarily powerful and not as pleasant.

 :agree: I'm afraid

If you wanna look burly (or do it Ben's way for historical reasons) you'd be going rh first then lobbing the left toe on, not heel on and going wrong handed for no particular reason at all.

it was because of not wanting to last minute change beta, did it to dropping the jug before eddie came along and cruised it the other way, but by that point I didnt want to do anything different last minute when I knew it worked my way....

JackAus

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 811
  • Karma: +56/-0
#110 Re: Bring out your dabs
March 12, 2013, 10:21:36 am
Just dug this out... Not a dab but another great pickup....  ;D


ghisino

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 664
  • Karma: +36/-0
#111 Re: Bring out your dabs
March 27, 2013, 12:20:37 am
merde!


dave

  • Guest
#112 Bring out your dabs
March 27, 2013, 07:36:18 am
Well when I went up left hand I felt like I was tricking the boulder, like a fly on a horse - trying to hitch a free ride to glory in the grand national.

Going right hand up is giving the middle finger to the boulder, and to the accepted beta.
'Beast mode engaged'
Since no one else does it that way, I have to assume it is fecking hard and therefore worthy of credit.


Maybe this will bring in a new age of BP ascents that draw a middle ground between the 'Ben' beta and the 'soft' beta
Maybe it really is 7C that way? :worms:

If you're tall or have long legs then you've scarcely any other option than to go RH first.

dave

  • Guest
#113 Re: Bring out your dabs
November 15, 2015, 08:41:40 pm
This is amazing.


Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#114 Re: Bring out your dabs
November 15, 2015, 08:50:27 pm
One of the most bizarre things I've ever seen.

Mike Tyson

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2075
  • Karma: +94/-2
#115 Re: Bring out your dabs
November 15, 2015, 08:52:58 pm
Even the dog dabs! (Ken Dodd's dads dog dabs?)

lagerstarfish

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Weapon Of Mass
  • Posts: 8816
  • Karma: +816/-10
  • "There's no cure for being a c#nt"
#116 Re: Bring out your dabs
November 15, 2015, 08:55:16 pm
if that guy stopped squeezing his ribs, the climber would be able to breathe properly

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#117 Re: Bring out your dabs
November 15, 2015, 09:05:10 pm
Fantastic! I need spotting like that

Scouse D

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1367
  • Karma: +73/-2
#118 Re: Bring out your dabs
November 15, 2015, 09:14:23 pm
A certain well known peak climber once spotted me like that on eatswood traverse.proper off-putting but a nice back rub all the same.

Luke Owens

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1311
  • Karma: +66/-0
    • My Blog
#119 Re: Bring out your dabs
November 15, 2015, 09:18:47 pm
That is proper quality, so bizzare

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20288
  • Karma: +642/-11
#120 Re: Bring out your dabs
November 15, 2015, 09:28:52 pm
I found the soundtrack rather disturbing and had to stop after 30 secs...

Teaboy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1183
  • Karma: +73/-2
#121 Re: Bring out your dabs
November 15, 2015, 10:28:37 pm
I think he fell off because his spotter pumped out

Fultonius

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4338
  • Karma: +142/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#122 Re: Bring out your dabs
November 15, 2015, 10:35:12 pm
I prescribe a two week training course at Dumbarton Rock. Nothing like a classic Dumby spot:


SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29276
  • Karma: +634/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#123 Re: Bring out your dabs
November 16, 2015, 08:55:12 am
My first thought was that the climber was disabled and you guys are beoign harsh, but he seems to stand OK by himself at the end.

Maybe they use the same ethics as swinging leads on long multipitch routes, where they share the tick between them?

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11458
  • Karma: +696/-22
#124 Re: Bring out your dabs
November 16, 2015, 10:22:38 am
Dave, how/why the fuck did you sit through all that to find out there was a punchline?

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal