I doubt Akira will get a second ascent. Rumour has it that Dani Andrada went over to try it and quickly managed all the moves, but on a return visit Rhouling had sika'd some positive holds to make them into slopers :shock: . Understandably Andrada bagged off trying it.
This link was posted on ukc....
so dai wasn't injured then?
Though it's a great shame that uka.com went bust.
Purchase good handgrippers. I don't mean those plastic grippers you get at K-Mart, I mean something like Captains Of Crush, Beef Builders, HeavyGrips, etc. I'd go with the Captains of Crush since they are the gold standard for grippers. They come in the following sizes. Guide - 60 lbs - Twice as strong as a store-bought hand gripper, in all likelihood you will be able to close this with each hand, but not casually for endless reps while watching TV or on a roadtrip like you could with the smaller sporting goods store handgrippers, which rate at 30-40 lbs. Sport - 80 lbs - A step up from the Guide, however you should be able to close it for at least one rep, which would be about average hand strength. It's called the sport because it's a size generally used by athletes to get the clicks out of their hands before playing their sport. Trainer - 100 lbs - A step up from the Sport, and the first in the heavy section of the CoC. A good many, however not a majority, should be able to close this on the first try. For serious grip training, start here. Number 1 - 140 lbs - Buy this if you have mastered the Trainer or you have unusually strong hands. Very few people will be able to close this on the first try, however, it has been done. This is a gripper good for bar bets. Number 2 - 195 lbs - Coming in at just shy of 200 lbs, this CoC will provide a challenge for nearly everybody, however being able to close this gripper for reps is far from unattainable. This gripper is excellent for bar bets, and has the bonus feature of being able to embarass Joe Cool at your gym. Number 3 - 280 lbs - A giant leap to the next gripper, this is the one that determines whether or not you are elite. Only 110 or so men have been able to close this in the past decade. If you can close this, you are given a special certifficate signifying that you have impressive grip strength. This gripper was handed to various top bodybuilders at the Arnold Expo, and only one was able to close it. This will win just about every bar bet. Number 4 - 365 lbs - Only five men have ever closed this gripper. If you can close it on your first try, then you apparently are Superman in disguise. An excellent training tool for Clark Kent and the top goal for us normal humans. If you want an otherworldly grip, set your sights on this. This will win every bar bet.
This third test is of utmost importance for the wrestlers' future career, especially for those who will adopt the yotsu style (wrestling body to body with a grip on the mawashi). In this test the grip of potential recruits is evaluated, trying to determine how well they will be able to grab their opponent's mawashi so that he will not be able to break their hold. To do that, the NSK uses a little hand-held apparatus, as shown in the pictures. The candidate has to close his fist as strong as he can, and the apparatus registers the maximal deployed force. For your information, common mortals have a grip strength of 50 kgf, but the greatest mawashi specialists largely surpass that value. Currently Kaio is the uncontested master as far as the grip is concerned, with100 kgf for his left and 110 kgf for his right hand. Able to crush an apple in his hand, Kaio doubtlessly boasts the most powerful fists in Sumo history. But the grip is not everything... On the contrary, with an average grip force of 50 kgf for both hands one can have a fine purely yotsu career, as demonstrated by the 66th Yokozuna Wakanohana, who was able to compensate for it by the strength of his legs!
Dai Koyomada has just made the 7th Ascent. Great effort from (probably) the strongest little man around! " 5 ascents in 15 years... then 2 ascents in one week... awesome.
Action Direct gets its 8th ascent. 3rd in a week! This time by Markus Bock.Reported on 8a.nu
Hey gringos,ready for the weekend?!?Well, get a bit of extra motivation with our series "the protagonists insights" as usual... FROM CLIMBERS TO CLIMBERS!This time we went for Markus Bock and his impressions on Action Directe!http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=822Enjoy your climbing!- FreakClimbing.com Staff
The emails they send are quite irritating too, e.g. :-
Cheers! :D - I think its the trans atlantic language variation rearing its head... You yanks mean well but sound insincere :wink: