[Rancid]

been once and got rained on after only trying a few probs on sugarloaf boulder.

so

please suggest/tell me about/describe any classics from b0 - b6 ( v4 and below? )

cheers

ps. not too height dependant ones if poss..... otherwise i;ll spend the whole time getting mardy

ps. i kniow there a thread about wimberry below but im talking about problems in the guide... thanks again

[fatneck]

There are plenty of problems listed on the other threads and you should check them out!

Off the top of my head without the guide,
 
Local Hero, Baxters Route on the Sugar Loaf.
The sitter on the right arete of the first of the sloping top blocks is classic.
The Slot and left arete of the second sloping top block.
Elephants Bum.
The Scoop.
Slabs on the other side of Winsome.
Sitter on the Fish block next to Ego (I think)...painfull.
Loads of other cool stuff as well.

BenF will probably be along after he's been there tonight to offer more suggestions.

[BenF]

BenF will probably be along after he's been there tonight to offer more suggestions.

Didn't end up at Wimberry in the end.  Oz had dropped out and I figured I'd just end up failing on Miles' Slab again, so I went to Frodsham and managed that slopey traverseono the Fred Nicole buttress.  Then I almost did this lower traverse line that me and Sugden checked out last week.  Hard but good.

Anyway, back to the original topic...  Can't argue with your suggestions except I would add:

West's Route (left of Winsome)
Think Tank (can't believe you didn't mention this Simon!)
The middle arete (furthest down hill) on the Sloping Top boulder

[andy_e]

local hero and baxter's wall are both very good.

[fatneck]

BenF wrote:

(can't believe you didn't mention this Simon!)

It's cos it still eludes me!!

Saw that traverse chalked up and had a play when I was there last week with Hip Hop. Nice moves, bit warm for me though.

Talking of Fred Nicole, has the direct finish through the biggest part of the roof been done? Sloping mantle-of-death finish etc etc sort of thing you like in fact Ben!

[Rancid]

thanks guys i'll check them out as soon as it stops raining! gutted i wanted to go this weekend as well.
thanks

[moose]

I'll add to the recommendations for the problems either side of Winsome: West's Route and, most especially, the LHS of the right-hand arete.

Think Tank is brilliant - quite a tricky start leading to burly jug pulling... go for glory and top-it out!  Local Hero on the Sugar Loaf is strangely compelling in spite of being on painful chipped holds - my advice is to tape-up for it and preserve your fingers for later delights.

If you raise your grade-range just a little you'll get to experience two better problems though: Fish Arete and Fish Groove.  The arete's well worth having a  play on... if only to motivate you for future visits (go... you know it makes sense!).

PS For photos & beta etc look at yorkshiregrit.com

[BenF]

Talking of Fred Nicole, has the direct finish through the biggest part of the roof been done? Sloping mantle-of-death finish etc etc sort of thing you like in fact Ben!

Since we're slightly hijacking this thread Simon, I'll answer you.  Yeah it's about v3 if I remember rightly and like you say it be right up my street, being a rank mantel, high and dirty.  Funnily enough I went to do it yesterday but backed off due to a number of factors: On my own, fifteen foot up, tree stump landing, dirty rock, lichen, poor commitment etc etc.  

All you have to do is pull left foot up and roll over, again if I remember rightly...

[BenF]

If you raise your grade-range just a little you'll get to experience two better problems though: Fish Arete and Fish Groove.  The arete's well worth having a  play on... if only to motivate you for future visits (go... you know it makes sense!).

Yup, just a little grade increase will give you access to Wimberry classics like those mentioned and also the slab left of Elephants Bum.  Awesome  problem that to honest isn't really anymore than v4 anyway.  Then keep on trying and add the sit start if you can, its well cool.

[Rancid]

thanks again. i'll be lucky to do any harder to be honest im steady b4, 10 or so b5's never done b6.... yet  :D

thanks though will deffo have a look and play when it drys out.


i went to dovestone ( those 2 areas before the actual dove stones ( peak ) and found it hard to get focused on a problem. what do you lot think of it? i was trying pot hole something slab type one but couldnt reach.

[andyh]

so think tank....

i've always tried starting as far right as possible, which seems very hard for the grade. should i be starting direct up the little grove using the (if i remember) sloper and painful crimp, or does it really start all the way rightwards?

[moose]

I started all the way right but it seemed really tough for the grade - I had to use a strenuous, body-tensiony, layaway move from some painful holds before making lots of long reaches to jugs.

[a dense loner]

dovestone is shit, especially so if you're a midget. it's good for a walk n some  casual bouldering, it's a stocking filler for the guide. however miles' area (dovestones from t'other end) is really good n slightly shorter walk. park in obvious car park just after strines pub , walk up hill n at obvious t-junction turn right. 40 mins walk

[BenF]

so think tank....

i've always tried starting as far right as possible, which seems very hard for the grade. should i be starting direct up the little grove using the (if i remember) sloper and painful crimp, or does it really start all the way rightwards?

I always start quite a way right, almost traversing in to the problem and using the body tension move to get to the crimps as described by Moose.  This seems appropriate because otherwise tall people can just reach past the first moves and make the problem about 5+.  Cool conditions make the footholds much more usable though.