Ladder fixing and tensioning (Read 8480 times)

Jim · September 30, 2005, 05:22:54 pm

got the ladder set up at long last

Set between 2 bolts with sling like so

could do with some more tension in it, any easy method to achieve this using slings and crabs?

clm · September 30, 2005, 05:41:22 pm

just weigh the bottom down with another carrrier bag and it will be reet.

Paul B · September 30, 2005, 05:43:08 pm

what kind of spacing is there between the rungs?

I would of though using a 2-1 kind of pully system with some 10mm cord and then just tying it off will work.
Similar to tightening a slackline...

Jim · September 30, 2005, 05:43:23 pm

that just to tidy the spare rungs away

clm · September 30, 2005, 06:49:31 pm

surely not

runt · September 30, 2005, 09:18:24 pm

http://atlantickayaktours.com/Pages/ExpertCenter/Equipment/Roof-Racks/The-Roof-Rack-4.shtml

Used this type of truckers hitch for zipping down weighty bits of trees, tied off with a few half hitches should be fine for a ladder. Could make it a bit posh (3:1)with krabs for the pulley bit and a couple of slings.

Ok yes I'm bored

Bubba · September 30, 2005, 11:12:35 pm

What do your neighbours think of your creation?

dontfollowme · October 01, 2005, 12:18:52 am

Are you not worried about people breaking in?

Jim · October 02, 2005, 07:59:20 pm

I think I know what you mean by the pulley system, similar to a slackline. might try that. Rung spacing is 60cm.
The ladder just unclips from the bottom and then open back bedroom window, lean out and up and unclip there and pull it all in through the window. 2 minute job to set up / take down.
neigbours think its a bit strange but who cares, I'm only intrested in getting stronger

ned · October 02, 2005, 08:17:04 pm

That looks good. Mine is fixed at two points at the top and bottom to stop it twisting as much.
They are really good for getting strong arms. Try to climb it open though (not twisted in) coz its more realistic and harder.

Jim · October 02, 2005, 08:43:33 pm

how do you mean, open? no comprende
it doesn't really twist much at all and wouldn't at all if there was enough tension in it

saltbeef · October 02, 2005, 08:46:00 pm

word beast, i think he means straight on, rather than the twisty thing moffat does on real thing. i went to the tor today did wild in me. easy. how were the roaches?

Jim · October 02, 2005, 09:09:01 pm

as they always are. pretty rubbish (upper tier anyway). big crew up there, good social scene. nice pint in lazy trout after

saltbeef · October 02, 2005, 09:14:20 pm

sounds like the tor, pretty rubbish, good social scene, nice protein shake in the car on the way home!

ned · October 02, 2005, 09:36:51 pm

Quote

i think he means straight on, rather than the twisty thing moffat does on real thing

Word. Its a lot easier to twist in, but its not how you would climb rock/plastic.

Jim · October 03, 2005, 07:35:38 pm

got a pulley type system together. works well. Its much easier to climb the ladder with tension in it and all

Bubba · October 03, 2005, 08:09:16 pm

What's the top of the ladder fixed to?

We used to have an almost identical ladder set up in a shared house I lived in years ago, but it was all just anchored to a single 8mm bolt into a brick....just gotta hope that brick is uber-solid I suppose - I was always convinced it'd rip and hit me on the head or something. A y-hang off two bolts might be a safer bet.

Bonjoy · October 04, 2005, 09:52:41 pm

Ditto to what Bubba said. Hanging on the middle of a tensioned line exerts massive loads on the anchors. I have seen a whole bricks ripped out of a wall in rope access, due to multiplied load on a single bolt in the upper courses of a brick wall (corner of a large banner).

Jim · October 04, 2005, 11:07:25 pm

well it seems to have taken my bulkus so far but I know what you mean. Bit woried myself that summit will give and I'll land on my back. If I was gonna put another bolt in, it'd be the brick next to it, would this be stronger d'ya recon?

Bubba · October 04, 2005, 11:29:14 pm

I reckon wider would be better - a "normal" brick or two in-between the bolted bricks. Not sure if that would actually be stronger than two side by side though, just feels like it would be.

As long as the angle of the y-hang is <= 90 degrees you're ok; after that and the setup gets weaker.

ned · October 04, 2005, 11:48:12 pm

Out of interest, What did you make the rungs out of?

a dense loner · October 05, 2005, 07:18:11 pm

you'll have to ask mr brown, it's his. all i can tell you is that they were made by god

Bonjoy · October 06, 2005, 09:06:42 am

I'd leave a gap of at least one brick. Maybe go for a bolt two courses down beneath the one you already have.
For bolting into brick the best bolts to use are apollo anchors, which are threaded and self tapping like an ice screw. You drill a hole which is the diameter of the bolt dicluding the thread width, hammer the bolt in 20mm (this bit is tapered) then drive it in the rest of the way with a ratchet. Totally bomber, removable and does not cause expansion pressure/fracturing. I can get you a couple if you wish.

Jim · October 06, 2005, 09:44:11 am

yes please mr lovejoy :D

Bonjoy · October 06, 2005, 10:03:01 am

You over in Sheff at all in the near future? Am up on Yorkshire lime this weekend and in Rodellar for a week from the 15th, so probably won't see you of a weekend for a bit. I can leave them with someone maybe or whatever?