[Stu Littlefair]

Vintage year for me. Finally got enough stamina to do some longer routes that I've had my eye on for ages, without getting massively weak in the process. I've equalled or bettered my high point in every discipline, Basically, well chuffed. Now if I could only get rid of some niggling injuries...

Particular highlights were flashing Obsession (so nervous I was going to choke on that one), Thormens Moth (again, nice one bonjoy), everything in the wonderful upside-down world of Baltzola, and Mecca.

[Bonjoy]

Good work on Mecca Stu!! Did you go for the clip or the runout to finish? I could never decide.
 Part of me wants to get back on it, but the other half that can't face repeatedly gibbering out of the groove is holding sway at the moment.

[Stu Littlefair]

I skipped the clip. I took the fall off the very last moves and it was fine. As Ru says, in the time it takes you to clip you could have finished the route.

I'm made up to have done it finally. It was a real headbreaker to redpoint as you can just slip off it anywhere. Interestingly, it gets much easier once you've done it once, so I guess the key is to relax (easier said than done)!

Was quite surprised by how hard and old-skool the moves are "upstairs".

[cofe]

stop-started a bit and dint really have any goals to begin with. however...

The press was put to bed very quick smart (now it's apparently 7b+ not 7c - Ru!!!) at start of summer after 2-3 years of 'nearlys'. also did powerhumps relatively quickly later on.

nothing of note on sport - some 7a's and 7a+'s.

did some classic trad routes i've wanted to do for a while (silly arete, suicide wall, white slab) but got bummed on another (quasar). also did the super indirect on plum buttress in cheedale with Johnny Brown which is mental and recommended as an adventure - it finishes up sirplum.

had a wicked trip to dollies with kim et al which scared the shit out of me but we did a 20 pitch HVS and scree-skied back down. plus we got caught in a blizzard on our first route. nice.

[Doylo]

started off well did salar 2nd rp, out of my tree 1st rp and staminaband (with official finishing move) in the same day. Also did the hulk in a sesh and the first moves of hooligan at the tor. Fell off the last move of Overnite at malham then next time i went it was piss wet. Flashed the moves on Zeke but never went back to it and almost did Cave Life in the Cave. So it should have been top banana but ended up getting bogged down with work and sacked with humid conditions. Next years gonna be good though  :wink:

[Doylo]

oh and nice one on Mecca Stu  :clapclap:

[saltbeef]

did one 7c at malham, and a vs on table mountain... thats about it route wise! did however do lots of bouldering, in south africa, (including an 8a! of fred nicole's... obviously my amazing peak grit technique and use of a heal brought it down to 7c!) i also ate a vast quantity of burgers, and got ripped off by car hire. don't know if i've improved or not? the routes(raindogs) will have to wait til after my exams...

[Paz]

Nice one Stu!  There's hope for your climbing when you get a job yet.

Might scan in the tick lists later, but in summary:

Naff all `up' unroped bouldering since January.  Haven't climbed indoors since March.  Consolidated beard.  Had my first double yoker.  

200 E-points (first year getting the double tonne about 50 of them depend on microroutes).  Ticked all starred routes on a few crags in the Gorge. Ticked all starred routes there up to E1. Ticked all the classic E4s in the gorge apart from Arms Race, mostly team ascents though, as was the case on the ace E4 on Lewis (Prozac Link/Screaming Abdabs), but did a fair few classic E3s in Pembroke and Cornwall and an E4 in the Leap my self.  Did an overgraded slabby `E6' onsight, maybe the first of more to come if I can find them?  maybe not, who cares.  Got to Carn Gowla.  

Wanted to do 7b in March and including soft split grades have done 6.  And 5 7b+s, 2 in a day. One of them was even mildly long with no no-hands-rests.  I even think one or two of them are not overgraded.  Need to consolidate this outside my stomping ground.  

Steve Mclure said on the grade "Climbing at this level is completely different from climbing at say, French 6a. Hard training is required. Campusing, dead hangs, weighted pull-ups, running, early nights, cake abstinence and general hard work are all essential, or at least a few of these anyway. Motivation and dedication are key. "

Well Steve you're not wrong but I accomplished the grade by having a beer at the crag!

I know I'm going on about this but I'm never going to climb more than a grade harder without a hell of a lot of work so I'm milking it while it lasts.

[Rancid]

not climbed as much as i'd have liked. only just about every weekend and once if that middweek when i should have got out every nigt as thats the reason i moved to sheffield! got distracted by moving in with bf and drinking too much.

however when i was out i managed to finish off quite a number of outstanding boulder problems id been trying for years! feeling strong and totally phyched for this autumn/winter bouldering.

st bees was my highlight and samson stones in lakes. just beautiful man.

planning getting back on a rope indoors( first time in litterally years ) this winter too which is scary and exciting all at the same time. hopefully get my stamina better for bouldering  :

planning lots of trips away from the peak next few months and winter stuff for first time.

feeling good

[Bonjoy]

Also did new thing at the Tor linking first two thirds of Evolution into the top wall of Chimes via a rising traverse.

 Just noticed this when on second read. Fine effort Ru! What's it go at? Got a name yet?

[Ru]

Name: Dunno for definite, probably Devolution, as it's easier than Evolution. 8b+ is the grade.

[dave]

did you get evol done in the end?

[Ru]

No, not been back on the full route all year ('cept for a brief play at the beginning of the year when you were there) till today. I did the link up as a way of getting the first section of Evo dialled again without getting bored of redpointing it. Was getting to the move left into the groove every go today. If I get that move, then I reckon the next point I'll fall is on the two moves before the finishing jug - or I'll do it.

[Doylo]

get it done beast

[Andy F]

Name: Dunno for definite, probably Devolution, as it's easier than Evolution. 8b+ is the grade.

Nice one Ru. Haven't got anything done outside sice the end of August, so it's bouldering for me now on.  Hoping to hit the Peak grit a bit this winter, so i'll drop you a line when i'm about.

[Ru]

Devolution, by Mr Alex Messenger.

[dobbin]

Your bicep is as big as your head.

[saltbeef]

does that imply ru has a small head (microcephaly) or  a very big bicep?
and does this new line go to the first lower off of chimes or the top?

[Ru]

and does this new line go to the first lower off of chimes or the top?

Starts up Evo, to where evo moves left to the groove (about 2/3 way up) where it breaks right and goes to the jugs half way up the Chimes of Freedom headwall, then goes up to the top lower-off of that route. (ie the top of chimes) - it's about 20m long[/code]

[dobbin]

(he's got a small head, its like one of those shrunken witch doctor things) :shock:  :wink:

[Rancid]

wahoo another old problem done at the weekend id been trying for ages! at last ive done the ramp(parachute) and the right hand slab(near the tufty problem) at eagle tor (both only b4's but hey ho conquered at last)

[SA Chris]

Never really had any massive ambitions for the year, but got to some excellent new places I have never been; Caithness, north bits of Reiff, other bits of Shiegra, got solid on HVS after a few injury/snowboarding interrupted seasons, and managed to get a few winter routes done without too much effort. NZ trip was good, got to the places we wanted to, and had a good ticking session in Castle Hill.

Bonuses were having a great summer for surfing (including a couple of dawn patrols), developing a couple of new bouldering areas and new crags from scratch.

Another bouldering spot earmarked for development over winter period, unless snows come down low enought to envelop it, in which case I will be out with axes/skis/snowboard.

[Falling Down]

The year doesn't yet seem to be out as far as sport climbing is concerned.. Malham catwalk was still in good condition yesterday and it was blazing hot at midday.. Yosemite Wall area was dry with teams on New Dawn, Mescilato & Taking the space.  The rest of the crag was in good nick too with wet streaks on Wasted Youth and Bolt Revolt and thats about it.  If it stays dry this week then another weekend clipping bolts in the sunshine might be in order.