UKBouldering.com

50 must do problems before dying (Read 6273 times)

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 10:58:55 am
and not just on the grit.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13485
  • Karma: +683/-68
  • Whut
#1 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 11:51:45 am
Teryn Roof Crack.

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
#2 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 12:04:29 pm
New Rose - Hutton Roof

and don't forget pictures

BenF

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2375
  • Karma: +61/-1
#3 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 12:19:11 pm
Sorry if this sounds like a case of name dropping, but I have to include stuff from when I lived in NZ.  I've struggled to name a particular problem from Castle Hill, there's so much mantel fun to be had, but I'll suggest...

Eight Legged Groove Machine or Phalanx or High Rise.

Dunno how many people have also experienced these, but in my opinion they're right up there.

Closer to home, and covered in cheese...

Not to be taken away

BenF

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2375
  • Karma: +61/-1
#4 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 12:23:10 pm
Damn it, I forgot my ultimate all time totally utterly favourite problem from Castle Hill...  Ocean.

If you've been there you must have done it.

Again soory for the ruthless name dropping, but it's a fantastic problem.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#5 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 12:35:24 pm
you have to include the camp 4 circuit

Midnight Lightning
King Cobra
Bruce Lee
The Force

and finally Thriller the greatest of them all. All perfect boulder problems

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9945
  • Karma: +561/-9
#6 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 12:54:31 pm
Quote from: "BenF"
Damn it, I forgot my ultimate all time totally utterly favourite problem from Castle Hill...  Ocean.

If you've been there you must have done it.

Again soory for the ruthless name dropping, but it's a fantastic problem.

 Hell yeah, Ocean was my favourite CA prob too!

International ones
Ocean, 100 Times Slab, Mother Bear, Fidel Castro, Better Than Jesus - Castle Hill
Ogre Thumb, The Nevin Rule - Grampians
Locktight, Paul's Present, Chaos and Disorder - Sydney
Yaniro, Il Pousif, Duroxmonie, Pensees Cachet, Noir Desir - Font (pretty random cos too many good ones to choose from really)

Stubbs

  • Guest
#7 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 01:10:21 pm
Quote from: "Doylo"
you have to include the camp 4 circuit

Midnight Lightning
King Cobra
Bruce Lee
The Force

and finally Thriller the greatest of them all. All perfect boulder problems


oh shit, i'm gonna have to get strong before i die!

BenF

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2375
  • Karma: +61/-1
#8 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 01:15:49 pm
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
Ocean, 100 Times Slab, Mother Bear, Fidel Castro, Better Than Jesus - Castle Hill
Ogre Thumb, The Nevin Rule - Grampians
Locktight, Paul's Present, Chaos and Disorder - Sydney
Yaniro, Il Pousif, Duroxmonie, Pensees Cachet, Noir Desir - Font (pretty random cos too many good ones to choose from really)


Oh yeah, I'll go with Better than Jesus as well, and I was close to listing 100 Times Slab.  How about Psychic Tealady up at Flock Hill?

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9945
  • Karma: +561/-9
#9 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 01:42:07 pm
Never did that one. Only managed to get to Flock a couple of times as it was lambing season :cry:

BenF

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2375
  • Karma: +61/-1
#10 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 02:24:38 pm
Shame, Flock Hill really is the dogs.  So many unclimbed lines too, just take a brush and take your pick.  Likewise Dry Valley has so much to go at.

Then again it's not like Spittle Hill or Quantum Field are climbed out yet.  And then there's the newly opened Prebble Hill and all the stuff beyond Quantum (Wuthering Heights etc).  Not that I managed to get further than Spittle, Quantum, Flock and Dry Valley in my year or so there.  Something truly sad like 100+ days there in 13 months and still I never managed half what I want to do.  

I guess that gives me plenty of projects for my next stint out there once I've ticked grit. :D

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9945
  • Karma: +561/-9
#11 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 02:39:33 pm
Is Prebble open for business these days? I'd consider a return trip just for that if it's true.
 Did quite a lot at Dry Valley, partly cos it was less of a slog to get to than Flock. Put up some awesome new probs, but never bothered to record as there was no guide to reference anything off. Will post up some scanned pics if I remember.

BenF

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2375
  • Karma: +61/-1
#12 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 02:51:01 pm
I understand that the NZ government have bought the valley from the top of Castle Hill peak right across to the Craigieburns and that when sorted there will be open access (less the usual lambing issues etc).  It's gonna be awesome when Prebble is open; I used to know a few people who'd been over and done a bit there and they said there was a whole truckload to be done.

I don't suppose you have a decent picture of Ocean do you?  I have one truly terrible, poor quality digi shot that does this problem no justice.  Please put up any Castle Hill shots, I'm always keen to stare at them, whatever the problem.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9945
  • Karma: +561/-9
#13 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 02:59:05 pm
That's bloody brilliant news. A very big reason to go back there! Friend at work has loads of great CA pics. Will try and get some off him to post up. Have seen a great pic of Uptowngirl on Ocean somewhere, will try and track down.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9945
  • Karma: +561/-9
#14 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 03:05:25 pm

Ocean  

Uptown flashing Unrepeatable  

Me on Monkey See Monkey Do

BenF

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2375
  • Karma: +61/-1
#15 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 03:32:24 pm
Ah ha... quality.  Thanks for that, the shots of the hill have brightened my day and made me rather whistful too.

Seeing the Unrepeatable made me think maybe we should start a "favourite mantel" thread.

Thanks again for the photo of Ocean.  What a problem and all with just two holds from bottom to top.

sharkey

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 157
  • Karma: +1/-3
#16 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 04:17:16 pm
Wow is castle hill where you go when you die! a sort of bouldering nirvana.

A little closes to home my present day Nemesis, have managed in to halves - Yorkshire 8A - a lip traverse at Rothley shear perfection.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9945
  • Karma: +561/-9
#17 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 04:30:41 pm
That's the one on the unlabelled picture on the inside cover of the Northumberland guide innit? Quality indeed.

sharkey

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 157
  • Karma: +1/-3
#18 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 04:37:15 pm
That's  the one, have you done it, my stamina is seriously lacking at the mo.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9945
  • Karma: +561/-9
#19 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 05:50:18 pm
Did a couple of years back on my one and only trip to Rothley

sharkey

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 157
  • Karma: +1/-3
#20 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 06:21:23 pm
The difference being Bonjoy i am climbing at my limit, maybe not one before i die but certainly this season perhaps! did you think 7a+?.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9945
  • Karma: +561/-9
#21 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 07:27:00 pm
7a+ seems about right

Sloper

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • fat and weak but with good footwork.
  • Posts: 5199
  • Karma: +130/-78
#22 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 09:23:51 pm
45 degree wall hueco,
la marie rose, er some where in france
Andy's arete, glendalough

bored now.

AndyR

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1180
  • Karma: +16/-1
#23 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 10:31:34 pm
Quote from: "Sloper"

Andy's arete, glendalough



You jest non?

Carnage

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1066
  • Karma: +29/-0
  • Pommie Bastard
#24 50 must do problems before dying
September 28, 2005, 11:41:26 pm
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
Quote from: "BenF"
Ogre Thumb, The Nevin Rule - Grampians
Locktight, Paul's Present, Chaos and Disorder - Sydney


I would add Petes Arete at the Fear Factory to that list. Its awesome. Best problem in Sydney.

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#25 50 must do problems before dying
September 29, 2005, 02:34:55 am
Quote
50 must do problems before dying


What grade does dying get these days? You'd want to work up to it gradually. V8+ perhaps? Isn't that beyond the pale?

Sorry.

It's late. That pun was the living end.

Carnage

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1066
  • Karma: +29/-0
  • Pommie Bastard
#26 50 must do problems before dying
September 29, 2005, 04:12:01 am
Quote from: "r-man"
That pun was the living end.


No, this is The Living End


tc

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 862
  • Karma: +73/-1
#27 50 must do problems before dying
September 29, 2005, 11:02:14 am
The old school crimpfest, the Traverse of Bluebell Wall @ The Breck, would be on my list of Desert Island Problems -- honestly :wink:

moose

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Lankenstein's Monster
  • Posts: 2937
  • Karma: +228/-1
  • el flaco lento
#28 50 must do problems before dying
September 29, 2005, 11:17:08 am
Quote from: "sharkey"
A little closes to home my present day Nemesis, have managed in to halves - Yorkshire 8A - a lip traverse at Rothley shear perfection.


that's the only reason I can come up with to return to Rothley (is there anything worthwhile other than that and the stuff at arete land?).  Have had a play on it: early part seemed burly fun (swinging heel-hookery) ... but the second half: christ.  The final uphill straight where the wall just keeps getting shorter.... stuff of nightmares!

Oh and my choice for an easy desert island problem - Right Hand Twin at Slipstones: lovely movement at an amenable grade.

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
#29 50 must do problems before dying
September 29, 2005, 11:42:19 am
Quote from: "AndyR"
Quote from: "Sloper"

Andy's arete, glendalough



You jest non?


he's obviously not been to glenmacnass. reckon.

BenF

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2375
  • Karma: +61/-1
#30 50 must do problems before dying
September 29, 2005, 12:13:58 pm
Cleopatra at Bridestones.

I try to avoid there these days 'cos it's falling apart, but Cleopatra is still in pretty good nick and utterly brilliant.

Red Dwarf

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 20
  • Karma: +0/-0
#31 50 must do problems before dying
September 30, 2005, 05:32:52 am
Trying to blag enough time off work to head down to Castle Hill in a couple of weeks ! : :lol:

BenF

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2375
  • Karma: +61/-1
#32 50 must do problems before dying
September 30, 2005, 08:18:34 am
Quote from: "Red Dwarf"
Trying to blag enough time off work to head down to Castle Hill in a couple of weeks ! : :lol:


It's the right time of year.  Near perfect conditions until end of October I'd say.  Have muchos fun.

Red Dwarf

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 20
  • Karma: +0/-0
#33 50 must do problems before dying
September 30, 2005, 08:53:01 am
Spent last weekend falling off things at Froggatt Edge and I'm heading to Mangaotaki in a couple of weeks too see what I can fall off down there  :lol:

BenF

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2375
  • Karma: +61/-1
#34 50 must do problems before dying
September 30, 2005, 12:20:37 pm
Quote from: "Red Dwarf"
Spent last weekend falling off things at Froggatt Edge and I'm heading to Mangaotaki in a couple of weeks too see what I can fall off down there  :lol:


Did you stay at Bryce's?  Is he still working his ass off or is he actually managing to climb much?

Red Dwarf

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 20
  • Karma: +0/-0
#35 50 must do problems before dying
October 01, 2005, 07:04:47 am
Just drove down for the day...I'ts only 1.5hrs from home (if you drive like me  :lol: )...Bryce told me that he's not climbing too much at the moment (read: working his ass off!)

saltbeef

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1456
  • Karma: +51/-5
#36 50 must do problems before dying
October 01, 2005, 11:03:37 am
ulan bator at rocklands. best 7b around.
oh and last day in paradise. did i mention i've done this!
stargate is awesome too. and the rack. all of these can be found in rocklands...

Sypeland

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 289
  • Karma: +11/-2
    • http://www.climbersbalm.com
#37 50 must do problems before dying
October 05, 2005, 05:14:47 pm
At one of Yorkshire worst venues (if there could be such a thing) is one of Yorkshires Finest problems - A Little Sparkle.

Well one of the better problems int dale anyway.

Resonate

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 130
  • Karma: +2/-0
#38 50 must do problems before dying
October 06, 2005, 03:30:37 pm
Le Toit De Cul-De-Chein... obviously


cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
#39 50 must do problems before dying
October 07, 2005, 10:05:00 am
is that stoney tom spotting?

Resonate

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 130
  • Karma: +2/-0
#40 50 must do problems before dying
October 07, 2005, 11:28:00 am
Quote from: "cofe"
is that stoney tom spotting?


yep.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal