[BenF]

Crookrise is also near to Earl and Shipley Glen doesn't take too long to get to from Earl, rock to rock.  Another plus point for Earl is that is never seems to be very busy.

I was never overly impressed with the bouldering at Burbage, but I haven't been there since getting Ru's guide, so I should probably go back and have a reassesment.

So Earl is the new Burbage?  Maybe we could transfer Remergence Buttress up there and our work is done.

[dave]

i was gonna put the cowper stone as burbage north-north but i wasn't sure it would stand up to scrutiny. maybe we can just call earl burbage north-north-north-north-north-north-north-north for the sake of simplicity?

both earl and burbage earl are good crags, but burbage ealr is an hour closer to my house, so it wins.

[Jim]

Handy andy's is hard for the grade IMHO. you need good skin for sloping beauty. LH start to DIA looked like utter bolloxs to me, just a one move throw into the normal start, did the move but didn't bother linking it into DIA.
Who goes to earl crag then another? you boys mustn't be putting enough effort in. apart from the fact I never have any skin after been at earl, my body is utterly fuct cos its one of the butchest grit crags going. Its also the best.

My HA beta:
lean out from block and get good RH and LH holds, feet off, pull up, RF on sloping foothold. slap LH up to next hold (2 different bits to this hold, lower bit which is smaller and more positive or upper bit which is bigger and slightly slopier) I use the lower bit of this hold. RF off and onto the more positive foothold slighly in and up from sloping one, left leg slighly round the arete (crucial IMO for next move) pull into it and go for the good triangular hold with RH (3 fingers) get RF on small hold quite high up and lock for the top. Jobs a good'un

[andy_e]

loadsa burbages, burbage north, burbage west, burbage bridge, burbage south-west (toads mouth, carl wark south etc). higgar east could really be called burbage west-north-west-by-north, and carl wark could be burbage west-south-west-by-west. burbage earl is a subset of burbage south, being the part of the crag east of stampede, so called cos its very like earl crag, i.e. dark green, good lines, dodgy landings. or conversley, maybe earl is named after burbage earl. any questions?

Fantastic summary there Dave.  You forgot the Cowper Stone though.  It's technically part of the same valley, just a little higher up the watershed.  Would that be Burbage extreme north west?

No doubt you will furnish me with a suitable response.  And people used to say I went on about Burbage too much...  

and the bit north of cowperstone? long burbage stoneedge? burbage quarry far south? burbage's mother? burbagestones? burbage and the garden of secrets? burbage north (wales)? bubage steep? Burbage tor? burbage o'ert road?

[Bonjoy]

LH start to DIA looked like utter bolloxs to me, just a one move throw into the normal start, did the move but didn't bother linking it into DIA.

 Are you tripped out on goofballs jim?? Or do you have a +15" ape index? I take it by normal start you don't mean one move into the RH sit start, which is obviously bollox :roll: . The normal start is left hand on arete and right on sidepull, gaining this in one move is a move i'd pay money to see!
 The way I gained this position was something like, big move to a slopey pinch at the bottom of the arete, toe shinanigans to bring left hand into intermediate undercut, flick right hand into guppy, left hand up to crimp, cutloose, feet back on summat, RH out to big sidepull, flick LH into sidepull. Hard 7b.

[BenF]

both earl and burbage earl are good crags, but burbage ealr is an hour closer to my house, so it wins.

However, True Earl is closer to my house than Faux Earl, so it wins for me.  I guess that's a score draw then.

[Jim]

starting from the back of the roof (big slot I think?) don't remember much to be honest, a few of us there, looked at it, agreed it was rubbish. Think your on about just staying on LH side for start which looked bunched up and arse dragging. This is all from hazy memory tho, could be wrong. Is it worth doing the LH start?

[BenF]

Who goes to earl crag then another? you boys mustn't be putting enough effort in. apart from the fact I never have any skin after been at earl, my body is utterly fuct cos its one of the butchest grit crags going. Its also the best.

No, it must be you that ain't trying! :wink:   A two or three crag day is ALWAYS a good day.  And a better way of getting a full day of new stuff rather than spending all day on one project or circuiting on stuff you know inside out.  Having said that, Earl probably ain't the best to go to first because there's always so much to do and it can mess you up.  But I find it quite skin friendly really.

[squeek]

Who goes to earl crag then another? you boys mustn't be putting enough effort in.

Me, as it's 20 minutes from my house we optimistically go there, see everything's wet, then go somewhere else.  I'd never go somewhere else if it was dry.  Another good point for Earl, you can see for miles, and if Pendle hill has just disappeared from vision due to rain, then it's time to run to the car, (or find a nice roof to sit under, it was the Gimp last time).

[BenF]

starting from the back of the roof (big slot I think?) don't remember much to be honest, a few of us there, looked at it, agreed it was rubbish. Think your on about just staying on LH side for start which looked bunched up and arse dragging. This is all from hazy memory tho, could be wrong. Is it worth doing the LH start?

I've not tried the left hand start but it looks a bit poor, especially when compared with the right hand sitter which is utterly amazing, better than the stand up and some of the best moves on grit. Fact.

[AndyR]

flick right hand into guppy,

Come again?

[moose]

my winter's ambition is to get just one decent day at Earl after 4 attempts! First 3 times it was dripping wet and I ended up at Shipley.  The last time it was incredibly warm and in my eagerness to make up for lost time I tore my fingers to pieces warming up (Trick Arete was a blood bath).  Well worth a 2 hour drive.... This thread's got me eager to try again though... just need a few dry days before a weekend.

[BenF]

Dr Guppy looks like someone has already...

[Bonjoy]

starting from the back of the roof (big slot I think?) don't remember much to be honest, a few of us there, looked at it, agreed it was rubbish. Think your on about just staying on LH side for start which looked bunched up and arse dragging. This is all from hazy memory tho, could be wrong. Is it worth doing the LH start?

 Yeah, I rated it. The moves are good and really devious, better than the other SS I thought  in my opinion. Not at all bunched and no more arse dragging than any other SS.

[AndyR]

BJ - what is a guppy?

[webbo]

BJ - what is a guppy?

is it like a yuppie but grumpy rather than young.

[cofe]

like a backhand cup. but not a cup you'd receive if dodging tax. also not to be confused with a backhand mug, or beaker.

cupping with thumbs down. but not a...............

[Bonjoy]

Like a fresh water blenny.
 Or like cofe sez, thumb down vertical hand wrap. Also known as moulding, pistol grip, gupston or cygnet

[AndyR]

Ahh, a flangecup - it's all clear now.

[Jim]

an upside down pinch

[cofe]

an upside down pinch

incorrect. back to jail.

[Falling Down]

BJ - what is a guppy?

[dave]

the right hand sitter which is utterly amazing, better than the stand up and some of the best moves on grit. Fact.

steady on - its alright but its not even the best thing on the crag!

[BenF]

the right hand sitter which is utterly amazing, better than the stand up and some of the best moves on grit. Fact.

steady on - its alright but its not even the best thing on the crag!

No sorry Dave, I have consulted with everyone in the room at the moment and without a single voice of dissent everyone agrees with my original statement.  Evidence based research that.

PLUS...  Simon Panton put it in the definitive, scientifically proven, agreed by everyone ultimate top 50 boulder problems in the world.  Case proven methinks.  :wink:

[dave]

I have consulted with everyone in the room at the moment

are you dialing in from a phonebox?